JOURNAL 


:WILLIAM  H.  RICHARDSON, 

A     PRIVATE     SOLDIER 


IN     THE      CAMPAIGN     OF 


BALTIMORE: 

JOHN       W  .       WOODS,       PRINTER. 
1S48. 


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JOURNAL 


OF 


WILLIAM  H.  RICHARDSON, 


A    PRIVATE     SOLDIER 


IS*     THE     CAMPAIGN      OF 


2C  c  to    ft  n  &  €H  &  JR  e  *  i  f  * 


UNDER    THE    COMMAND    OF 


COLONEL  DONIPHAN 


OF     MISSOURI. 


SEC  OND      EDITION. 


BALTIMORE: 

JOHN      W .      WOODS,      PRINTER 

1848. 


,R53 


Entered,  according  to  the  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1848,  by  WILLIAM  H. 
RICHARDSON,  in  the  Clerk's  Office  of  the  District  Court  of  Maryland. 


JOURNAL. 


I  LEFT  my  home  on  West  River,  Anne  Arundel 
County,  Md.,  the  lllh  November,  1845,  for  a  southern 
tour,  and  after  visiting  the  principal  places  of  the  south 
and  west,  inspecting  the  country,  and  meeting  with 
adventures  familiar  to  all  who  travel,  I  found  myself, 
the  following  spring,  located  permanently  a  few  miles 
from  Carrollton,  Carroll  County,  Missouri,  boarding  in 
the  family  of  Judge  Rea,  a  clever  gentlemanly  man. 
Here  I  formed  numerous  acquaintances,  among  them, 
an  old  Capt.  Markle,  who  informed  me  of  his  intention 
to  visit  California,  and  depicted  in  glowing  terms  the 
pleasure  of  travelling  in  new  countries,  &c.  In  the 
meantime,  a  company  of  mounted  volunteers  was  being 
formed  in  the  neighborhood,  under  Capt.  Williams,  in 
which  many  young  men  whom  I  knew,  had  enlisted. 
This,  together  with  the  enthusiasm  which  prevailed  at 
a  public  meeting  on  the  4th  of  July,  (when  the  ladies 
of  Carrollton  presented  the  company  a  beautiful  flag, 
and  many  speeches  were  made) — caused  rne  to  decide 
and  join  the  company.  I  immediately  set  about  pre 
paring — bought  my  regimentals,  canteen,  saddlebags, 
also  some  books  and  a  writing  apparatus  for  conve 
nience  in  noting  down  the  occurrences  of  each  day, 
thinking  it  probable,  should  I  live  to  return,  it  might  be 
a  source  of  amusement  to  my  friends  in  Maryland. 

August  4th,  1846. — This  morning  we  started  for  Fort 
Leavenworth.  Many  of  my  friends  came  to  take  break 
fast  with  me  at  Squire  Dorr's.  We  met  our  Captain  at 
Carrollton,  where  a  public  dinner  was  given.  The  com 
pany  formed  and  marched  to  the  table  in  order.  In  the 
evening  we  mounted  our  fine  horses  and  proceeded  out 
of  town.  We  passed  the  Prairie,  30  miles  wide,  and  rode 


as  far  as  the  residence  of  Dr.  Arnold.  There  were  fifteen 
of  us  in  company,  separated  from  the  rest,  and  all  in 
search  of  quarters. 

Having  to  water  our  horses,  the  Doctor  directed  us 
where  to  go.  The  way  was  plainly  pointed  out,  but  to 
our  astonishment,  we  all  got  lost  in  the  timber.  We 
rode  till  very  late,  and  might  have  been  put  to  great  incon 
venience,  had  we  not  met  with  a  servant  who  set  us  right. 
We  returned  to  the  Doctor's  to  muse  on  our  mishap  and 
enjoy  more  hospitality.  An  ominous  beginning  for  a  sol 
dier's  life. 

bth. — Started  this  morning  in  company  with  the  Doctor 
and  his  lady,  who  went  with  us  eight  miles  to  Lexington, 
and  thence  to  Richmond,  where  we  arrived  at  4  o'clock. 
A  few  miles  further  on  we  encamped.  I  rode  all  this  day 
without  my  dinner.  Having  had  opportunity  to  become 
better  acquainted  with  my  Captain  and  other  officers,  I 
find  them  very  clever  and  kind. 

6lh. — I  discoverd  this  morning  that  my  horse  was  lame 
from  tightness  of  his  shoes.  Went  to  town  to  a  black 
smith  who  re-shod  him.  The  company  could  not  wait 
for  me,  and  I  travelled  alone  through  a  beautiful  forest  of 
sugar  trees.  Passed  Elke  Horn,  and  rode  until  within 
six  miles  of  Liberty.  Here  I  found  our  baggage  team 
had  given  out.  Our  Captain  had  gone  ahead  with  the 
company,  and  left  the  second  Lieutenant,  Mr.  Smith,  in 
charge.  I  discoverd  Lieutenant  Smith  to  be  a  man  of  very 
tender  feelings.  Several  of  our  company  were  taken 
with  chills  to-night,  which  is  rather  discouraging. 

1th. — At  day  light  this  morning  our  train  was  under 
way,  arrived  in  town  to  breakfast,  after  which  our  Captain 
marched  us  all  over  the  city.  It  is  a  beautiful  inland 
place  of  1000  inhabitants.  Fifteen  miles  further  on,  we 
met  our  first  Lieutenant,  just  from  the  Fort.  He  told  us 
to  hurry  on  and  get  mustered  into  service  before  the  other 
companies  should  crowd  in.  We  hurried  accordingly  and 
reached  Platt  City  at  sun-set.  I  was  fatigued  and  hun 
gry,  and  went  into  the  hotel  to  get  my  supper,  when  I 
came  out,  I  found  our  third  Lieutenant  had  come  up 
with  the  rest  of  the  men,  and  were  ready  to  start  for  the 


ferry.  I  went  on  with  them.  We  arrived  at  the  ferry, 
opposite  Fort  Leavenworth,  about  12  o'clock  at  night.  I 
went  in  search  of  something  for  my  horse.  There  was  a 
widow  lady  living  near,  to  whom  I  applied,  and  she  very 
pleasantly  told  me  "to  go  to  the  crib  and  help  myself." 
I  went,  fed  my  horse,  and  spent  the  rest  of  the  night  on 
the  unhusked  ears  in  the  crib,  where  I  slept  soundly. 

8M. — Rose  early  and  went  in  search  of  my  Captain. 
Found  him,  with  many  others,  between  some  fallen  trees, 
wrapped  up  in  their  blankets,  fast  asleep  on  the  sand. 
We  soon  prepared  for  crossing  the  river,  which  I  felt  to 
be  the  bidding  adieu  to  friends  and  home,  and  almost  civ 
ilization  itself.  I  was  the  only  one  who  had  taken  re 
freshment.  It  was  fortunate  for  me  that  I  had  made  a 
second  visit  to  the  widow  and  obtained  a  good  breakfast. 
We  were  soon  all  safely  over  the  ferry,  85  in  number,  men 
of  all  grades  and  dispositions,  some  very  facetious,  and 
others  reserved  and  thoughtful.  We  were  all  huddled  to 
gether,  and  ordered  to  form  in  double  file,  to  proceed  two 
miles  from  the  Fort  to  erect  our  tents.  We  had  to  wait  some 
time  for  the  wagons  which  contained  our  provisions,  con 
sisting  of  mess  pork,  sugar,  coffee,  &c.  The  head  of 
each  mess — six  in  number,  had  to  apply  to  the  Sergeant 
for  the  necessary  supplies.  Having  been  appointed  to  the 
charge  of  my  mess,  I  went  up,  took  my  share,  and  helped 
the  men  to  theirs.  The  first  meal  I  tasted  in  the  Indian 
territory  was  supper,  and  such  a  supper  !  It  was  composed, 
of  hard  water  crackers  and  mess  pork,  which  would  cut 
five  inches  through  the  ribs.  I  boiled  my  pork  for  nearly 
two  hours,  and  found  it  still  so  tough  that  it  was  harder  la 
bor  than  I  had  been  at  all  day  to  eat  it.  Necessity  is  the 
mother  of  invention,  and  I  fell  upon  an  expedient  by 
which  to  despatch  it,  I  took  it  out,  stewed  and  fried  it. 
But  it  was  yet  spongy  and  stuck  in  my  teeth.  I  made 
out,  however,  with  the  assistance  of  a  keen  appetite  ;  and 
being  very  tired,  I  laid  myself  down  on  my  blanket  in 
the  tent.  I  had  not  lain  many  minutes  when  our  Orderly 
came  by,  calling  upon  the  men  to  form  a  line.  We  had 
much  rather  slept,  but  to  obey  was  our  duty,  and  we 
were  soon  in  the  line.  We  were  then  drilled  by  a  young 


officer  from  the  Fort.  After  drill,  the  officers  commenced 
counting  us  off  from  right  to  left,  and  every  fourth  man 
had  to  stand  guard. 

I  was  taken  as  one  of  the  fourth  men  and  placed  with 
eleven  others  at  No.  1, where  I  had  to  walk  my  post  two 
hours.  It  was  quite  long  enough  for  a  beginning,  and  I 
resigned  the  post  with  pleasure  when  the  time  expired. 
At  12  o'clock  the  relief  guard  put  a  man  in  my  place,  and 
I  went  rejoicing  to  my  rest. 

Sunday,  9th. — This  morning  I  had  to  get  breakfast  for 
the  first  time  in  my  life  ;  I  was  perfectly  green  at  the  busi 
ness,  but  it  had  to  be  done.  I  filled  the  kettle  with  water, 
browned  my  coffee,  fried  the  pork,  &c.  I  went  on  very 
well  until  by  an  unlucky  mishap  I  upset  the  kettle,  and 
put  out  the  fire.  Nothing  daunted  by  the  misfortune,  I 
entered  upon  another  trial  and  was  more  successful.  We 
paraded  immediately  after  breakfast,  and  prepared  to  go 
to  the  Fort,  where  we  had  the  honor  of  being  mustered 
into  service  by  our  Colonel.  He  called  our  names,  and 
as  each  passed  before  him  he  was  asked  his  age,  and  as 
many  other  questions  as  would  afford  a  pretty  good  des 
cription  of  his  person  and  history  of  his  life.  The  Arti 
cles  of  War  were  then  read  and  we  formed  a  line  and  re 
turned  to  camp.  The  roll  was  called  soon  after,  and  all 
that  were  not  present,  had  to  keep  guard.  So  much  for 
playing  truant  on  an  occasion  of  so  much  importance.  I 
was  fortunate  enough  to  be  present  and  escaped  the  in 
fliction. 

12th. — The  past  two  or  three  days  were  employed  in 
strict  attention  to  the  duties  of  a  soldier,  such  as  cooking, 
drilling,  &c.  To-day,  Col.  Price  assembled  the  whole 
regiment  at  the  Fort,  to  have  an  appraisement  of  horses, 
saddles,  &c.  In  the  afternoon  I  rode  back  to  the  en 
campment  on  a  large  bag  of  beef  in  the  hot  sun.  A  se 
vere  headache  was  my  travelling  companion. 

14th. — -Yesterday  and  to-day  we  had  a  terrible  job, 
breaking  mules  to  the  wagons.  It  is  difficult  to  muster 
these  stubborn  animals  into  service.  I,  with  a  fellow 
soldier,  was  detained  from  the  Fort  till  a  late  hour. 
We  were  employed  in  the  novel  pursuit  of  pulling  two 


of  the  mules  by  main  force  through  the  hazel  bushes  two 
miles.  Only  think  of  it !  Two  of  Uncle  Sam's  worthies 
pulling  a  jackass  apiece  two  miles  through  the  bushes. 
While  at  the  Fort  I  called  on  the  minister,  who  was 
very  kind  and  affectionate  in  his  conversation  and  man 
ners.  He  presented  me  a  Testament,  Prayer  Book,  and 
a  bundle  of  Tracts — at  night  we  threw  copies  into  each 
tent,  and  then  sung  hymns  until  it  was  time  to  retire. 

15/A. — This  was  our  washing  day.  I  went  with  the 
rest  of  the  b'hoys,  to  the  branch,  where  we  kindled  three 
large  fires,  and  put  up  our  camp  kettles  to  boil  the 
clothes.  I  never  boiled  any  before,  and  I  felt  pretty 
much  as  I  did  when  I  began  to  cook  breakfast.  I  went 
to  work  awkwardly  enough,  as  my  scalded  hands  bore 
witness.  But  a  man  can  even  wash  his  clothes  when  he 
is  obliged  to  do  it,  the  opinions  of  the  ladies  to  the  con 
trary  notwithstanding.  In  the  evening  we  ceased  our 
labors  as  washers  of  clothes  and  went  into  the  branch 
and  washed  ourselves.  After  bathing  we  returned  to 
camp  quite  refreshed. 

Sunday,  16th. — This  morning  I  thought  I  would  hear 
the  Missionary  preach — and  writh  several  others,  started 
for  the  purpose.  Just  before  we  got  to  the  village,  an 
Indian  informed  us  there  would  be  no  preaching  that 
day.  We  were  greatly  disappointed,  and  turned  to  wan 
der  about  awhile  and  survey  the  country  around.  It  was 
wild  and  picturesque,  and  the  sight  of  it  was  gratifying. 
We  met  a  number  of  Indians.  Their  language  and 
gesture  were  very  strange,  and  they  presented  a  most 
outlandish  appearance.  Many  of  them  came  into  our 
camp  with  a  variety  of  things  to  sell.  When  we  re 
turned,  our  camp  was  nearly  deserted.  The  men  had 
gone  to  the  Fort  for  equipments  to  commence  our  march. 
We  hurried  on,  but  only  to  be  disappointed  again.  Too 
many  companies  were  in  before  us.  We  went  back  to 
the  camp,  and  spent  the  day  quietly. 

ISth. — Every  man  was  well  fitted  out  with  a  musket 
and  fifteen  cartridges,  a  load  of  guns  having  been  brought 
from  the  Fort.  I  have  now  become  accustomed  to  im 
plicit  obedience  to  orders — going  and  returning  on 


8 

errands  to  the  Fort — breaking  mules,  looking  for  strayed 
horses,  cooking  breakfast,  washing  clothes,  &c.  At  night 
it  rained  hard,  and  while  I  tried  to  compose  myself  to 
sleep,  I  felt  the  shower  dripping  in  my  face. 

20th. — The  important  morning  had  now  arrived.  It 
was  the  morning  on  which  we  were  to  "strike  our  tents, 
and  march  away"  for  California.  All  was  bustle  and 
excitement,  and  we  poor  privates  had  to  load  the  wag 
ons  with  provisions  for  our  long  march.  It  fell  to  my 
lot  as  usual,  to  handle  the  bacon,  pork,  &c.  And  yet 
another  trial  awaited  me  :  we  had  not  travelled  more 
than  a  mile,  when  we  came  to  a  deep  slough  or  pond, 
through  which  I  had  to  guide  a  mule.  It  was  the  first 
time  I  had  the  honor  of  leading  a  mule  in  gears.  I  had 
to  dismount  and  wade  through  thick  mud  up  to  my  waist. 
I  had  rather  carried  the  mule  on  my  back  over  a  better 
road.  What  made  the  matter  worse,  I  had  my  new  clothes 
on,  and  they  were  almost  ruined  by  the  adventure.  On 
stopping  to  encamp,  a  messmate  kindly  poured  on  water, 
while  I  washed  the  mud  off,  as  well  as  I  could,  and 
laid  down  in  my  wet  garments,  very  weary  with  my 
day's  journey. 

21st. — We  are  now  fairly  in  the  Indian  country. 
The  place  assigned  by  the  Government  for  the  future 
residence  of  the  tribes  who  have  emigrated  from  the 
States.  Here  we  found  the  prairies  covered  with  grass 
—a  seasonable  supply  for  our  horses.,  and  a  drove  of 
ninety-five  beeves  which  we  had  brought  out  for  present 
use.  A  strong  guard  was  stationed  around  the  encamp 
ment,  at  night,  as  roving  bands  of  Indians  were  lurking 
around  us,  ready  to  seize  any  thing  they  could  lay  their 
hands  on.  We  had  travelled  12  miles  when  our  Captain 
thought  it  best  to  encamp  for  the  night,  as  we  found  a 
little  wood.  The  want  of  timber  is  a  great  defect  in  this 
otherwise  beautiful  country. 

22nd.— We  started  this  morning  at  8  o'clock,  and  trav 
elled  15  miles  through  a  lovely  region,  when  we  came  to 
a  settlement  of  the  Delaware  Indians.  Their  houses  and 
plantations  bear  evident  marks  of  civilization.  In  com 
pany  with  our  first  Lieutenant,  I  called  at  a  house,  in  the 


door  of  which  sat  two  squaws  making  moccasons. 
Stretched  on  a  bench  near  by,  lay  an  Indian  fast  asleep. 
He  was  a  man  of  most  powerful  dimensions,  at  least 
six  feet  four,  and  fat  withal.  By  his  side  rested  a  club 
full  of  notches.  We  did  not  care  to  disturb  his  repose, 
for  we  had  slight  misgivings  that  a  notch  or  two  more  in 
that  fatal  war  club,  might  record  the  finale  of  our  own 
history.  We  left  him  to  his  slumber  and  hastened  to 
the  river  where  we  found  several  companies  of  our  compan 
ions  buying  and  selling  among  the  squaws.  Whiskey  was 
the  principal  commodity,  and  a  number  of  Indians  were  so 
much  intoxicated  that  they  could  hardly  tell  a  tree  from  a 
moccason.  The  ferry  is  kept  by  the  Indians.  The 
Kansas  river  at  this  place  is  a  bold  stream,  it  was,  never 
theless,  safely  passed  by  all,  using  boats  only  for  our 
wagons  ;  about  sun-set  all  landed  and  we  encamped 
about  a  mile  from  the  river. 

Sunday,  23d. — Again  we  started  on  our  journey. 
After  the  first  ten  miles  of  a  broken  country,  some  high 
hills  appeared.  They  were  very  difficult  of  ascent,  and 
we  had  .much  trouble  with  our  teams.  In  two  places 
we  had  to  put  our  shoulders  to  the  wheels.  Orders  were 

tiven  that  every  man  should  secure  what  wood  he  could 
nd,  and  we  commenced  packing  it  before  us,  on  our 
horses.  A  picturesque  scene  we  must  have  presented, 
each  man  with  his  load  of  wood  before  him  on  his  horse. 
While  riding  in  this  way  we  overtook  Lieutenant  Col. 
Mitchell. 

24th. — After  passing  a  few  clumps  of  trees,  an  im 
mense  prairie  spread  out  before  us,  extending  as  far  as 
the  eye  could  reach.  At  12  o'clock  we  came  to  a  branch 
and  encamped.  The  water  here  is  in  standing  pools, 
and  before  drinking  or  making  coffee,  we  were  obliged 
to  strain  it  through  our  handkerchiefs.  While  thus  en 
gaged,  two  Indians  of  the  Sac  Tribe,  made  their  appear 
ance.  They  were  elegantly  mounted,  but  painted  and 
tattooed  in  a  frightful  manner.  They  are  smaller  in  stat 
ure  than  the  Delawares,  and  at  war  with  them.  They 
called  at  our  camp  as  a  matter  of  curiosity.  One  of  my 
mess,  Levi  Flowers,  received  a  severe  kick  in  his  face 


10 

from  a  horse  which  nearly  killed  him.     His  face  was  very 
much  swollen. 

25£A. — The  companies  are  now  all  united — having 
overtaken  each  other  at  different  places.  Our  force  was 
1200  strong.  We  travelled  all  day  in  sight  of  trees  like 
little  dots  on  the  horizon.  At  the  end  of  our  day's  march 
we  hoped  to  find  water,  good  water,  which  our  poor  fel 
lows  needed  after  a  long  hot  march,  with  nothing  to  pro 
tect  their  heads  from  the  rays  of  the  sun  but  small  glazed 
caps.  The  goal  was  reached.  We  rested  beneath  the 
shade  of  a  small  skirt  of  woods. 

2Qlh. — As  usual, 8  o'clock  found  us  ready  to  start.  After 
a  march  of  14  miles,  we  encamped  on  Beaver  Creek. 
We  killed  a  beef — and  the  soldiers  busied  themselves  in 
cooking  supper.  Not  having  conveniences  of  home  at 
hand,  we  dispensed  with  our  dinner  daily,  and  satisfied 
ourselves  with  eating  morning  and  night.  Our  Captain  is 
a  good  sort  of  a  man  and  will  no  doubt  do  the  best  he  can 
for  us.  And  now  while  speaking  of  the  Captain  I  will 
say  a  word  or  two  about  our  Lieutenants.  Our  first 
Lieutenant,  Mr.  White,  is  nearly  always  in  a  good  humor. 
He  is  large  and  somewhat  corpulent — enjoys  a  laugh 
very  much.  He  weighs  220lbs.  net.  Our  second  Lieu 
tenant,  Mr.  Smith,  is  of  the  middle  size,  very  facetious, 
and  always  ready  to  accommodate.  Our  third  Lieuten 
ant,  Mr.  Rock,  was  formerly  Captain  of  Militia,  but  vol 
unteering  to  go  with  the  army  to  California,  we  elected 
him  third  Lieutenant.  He  is  a  little  over  the  middle 
size,  and  very  reserved  and  stately. 

21th. — After  travelling  twelve  miles  we  reached  the 
encampment  of  the  Marion  company,  where  we  found  a 
poor  fellow  who  was  accidentally  shot  last  night,  by  a 
revolving  pistol.  Two  men  are  left  to  take  care  of  him. 
It  is  thought  he  cannot  survive.  Poor  fellow !  His 
fate  is  a  sad  one.  Pursuing  our  journey,  we  passed 
Beaver  Creek,  and  after  travelling  18  miles,  came  to  the 
Big  John  River,  where  we  encamped  for  the  night. 

28th. — The  Captain  told  us  this  morning  that  we  should 
stop  here  for  a  day  or  two  to  rest  ourselves.  And  now 
began  a  most  ludicrous  scene.  Every  camp  kettle  and 


11 

other  vessel  that  would  hold  water  was  brought  in  requi 
sition,  and  the  whole  regiment  commenced  washing 
their  clothes.  To  me  it  was  a  most  singular  sight. 
While  rubbing  away  at  our  clothes  a  rumor  reached  us 
that  we  were  on  the  route  to  Santa  Fe,  instead  of  Cali 
fornia.  This  was  news,  and  what  with  washing  and  what 
with  talking  we  were  kept  pretty  busy.  On  the  route  to 
Santa  Fe,  though  we  entered  the  journey  for  California. 
But  alas  !  no  matter  where  we  are.  We  found  our  trip 
was  not  a  "pleasure  excursion,"  as  many  of  our  imagina 
tions  had  so  often  pictured.  The  two  soldiers  we  left 
to-day  have  just  come  in,  after  digging  the  grave  of  their 
poor  comrade. 

29th. — This  morning  we  caught  some  black  trout  and 
cat  fish  in  the  Big  John,  They  were  very  fine.  Col. 
Price  had  gone  ahead,  and  at  12  o'clock  we  struck  our 
tents,  passed  Council  Grove,  and  encamped  at  2  o'clock 
a  few  miles  further  on,  where  there  is  a  blacksmith  shop, 
established  by  the  government.  Here  I  left  letters  for 
my  friends  in  Maryland,  to  be  carried  back  by  the  return 
mail  to  Fort  Leavenworth. 

Sunday,  30th. — Saw  near  the  road,  one  of  those  sin 
gular  mounds,  of  which  I  have  so  often  read.  It  tower 
ed  beautifully  to  the  height  of  100  feet.  It  may  have 
been  a  mount  of  observation ;  it  may  be  filled  with  the 
bones  of  the  red  men  of  the  forest.  I  have  no  time,  how 
ever,  to  speculate  upon  subjects  so  foreign  from  my  pre 
sent  employment.  At  the  end  of  8  miles,  we  came 
to  Rock  Creek,  and  7  miles  further  we  arrived  at  Dia 
mond  Spring,  where  wre  halted  for  the  night. 

31st. — This  morning  I  filled  my  canteen  with  the  re 
freshing  water  of  Diamond  Spring.  At  the  spring  I  count 
ed  45  wagons  loaded  with  provisions  for  the  army.  Yes 
terday  we  entered  upon  the  far-famed  plains  at  Rock 
Creek.  The  scenery  presents  a  dull  monotony,  a  vast 
plain,  almost  level,  bounded  by  the  horizon  and  covered 
with  a  thin  sward  and  herbage. 

September  1st. — Came  to  a  place,  called  the  "Lost 
Spring,"  a  most  singular  curiosity.  The  stream  rises 
suddenly  out  of  the  ground,  and  after  rushing  over  the 


12 

sand  a  few  yards,  as  suddenly  sinks,  and  is  no  more 
seen. 

2nd. — To-day  we  are  at  the  Cotton  Wood  Fork.  It 
takes  its  name  from  a  large  cluster  of  cotton  trees,  the 
first  I  had  seen  after  leaving  Diamond  Spring.  There  is 
a  good  stream  of  water  here,  and  we  enjoyed  the  bless 
ing  of  a  fine  shower  of  rain.  A  little  misunderstanding 
took  place  among  the  officers  about  starting.  Some  of 
them  were  too  slow  in  their  movements  and  caused  our 
Captain  to  collect  his  men  and  make  a  speech.  Several 
of  the  men  were  disgusted  and  become  uproarious.  A 
inarch  of  eight  miles,  however,  to  Turkey  Creek,  settled 
the  question,  and  all  appeared  in  pretty  good  humor. 
Three  miles  further  on,  we  came  to  2nd  Turkey  Creek, 
nine  miles  beyond  to  3rd  Turkey  Creek  and  encamped. 
Turkey  Creeks  are  plenty  in  this  vicinity.  How  we 
would  have  rejoiced  if  the  turkeys  had  been  as  plenty  as 
the  titles  of  the  streams  indicated.  Third  Turkey  Creek 
is  a  lovely  stream,  running  through  the  prairie.  Here 
we  wanted  wood  to  cook  with.  As  yet  we  had  not  seen 
any  game  with  the  exception  of  two  rabbits,  caught  by 
our  men.  They  were  of  a  novel  species,  almost  white, 
with  long  black  ears,  and  as  large  as  a  grey  fox. 

3rd. — About  12  o'clock  to-day  we  came  in  sight  of 
timber.  Passed  the  4th  Turkey  Creek,  and  after  travel 
ling  18  miles,  encamped  on  the  banks  of  the  little  Arkan 
sas,  which  at  some  seasons  is  a  bold  stream,  with  tre 
mendous  cliffs  that  can  be  seen  at  a  long  distance. 

4th. — We  are  all  huddled  together  in  our  tents,  in  con 
sequence  of  a  heavy  storm  of  wind  and  rain,  which  came 
on  last  night.  Some  of  the  tents  blew  down,  and  most 
of  the  company  were  in  a  bad  fix.  Fires  were  necessary 
to  keep  us  warm.  We  left  at  8  o'clock,  and  after  trav 
elling  10  miles,  came  to  Owl  Creek.  Five  miles  from 
Owl  Creek  we  reached  Cow  Creek,  where  we  encamped. 
On  the  left  we  could  see  cliffs  and  timber  at  a  great  dis 
tance,  and  some  small  white  spots  like  sand  hills.  On 
the  right,  nothing  but  a  vast  prairie.  Just  before  we  ar 
rived  at  the  Cow  Creek  an  antelope  was  started.  Our 
boys  gave  chase  and  fired  several  times,  but  they  missed 


13 

him  and  he  finally  escaped.  They  must  shoot  better  in 
fight  with  the  enemy.  We  had  scarcely  fixed  up  our  tents, 
when  the  news  came  that  a  buffalo  was  in  sight.  In  an 
instant,  men  on  horseback,  fully  armed,  were  in  pursuit 
from  every  direction.  He  was  less  fortunate  than  the 
antelope.  The  men  had  improved  a  little  and  they  over 
took  their  game  after  a  considerable  chase,  during  which 
they  fired  fifty  times.  They  killed  him  at  last  and  brought 
some  of  the  flesh  to  the  camp.  It  was  of  very  little  use, 
for  with  all  our  cooking,  it  was  too  tough  to  eat.  He 
was  a  bull  at  least  20  years  old.  We  had  better  let  the 
old  patriarch  run. 

Arkansas  Bend,  Saturday,  6th. — Here  we  stopped 
last  night,  after  a  most  exciting  day.  Herds  of  buffalo 
were  seen  scattered  over  the  plains.  The  best  hunters 
were  picked  out  to  secure  as  many  as  possible.  The  chase 
was  a  fine  one,  13  were  killed  by  the  different  companies. 
I  strolled  away  from  camp  alone,  to  one  of  those  myste 
rious  mounds,  which  occur  so  frequently  to  the  traveller 
among  these  wilds.  On  ascending  it,  I  enjoyed  a  most 
magnificent  prospect.  It  has  the  appearance  of  a  Fort, 
but  when  and  for  what  purpose  erected  will  long  remain 
a  matter  of  uncertainty.  I  lingered  so  long  that  on  my 
return  I  found  that  my  company  had  gone  forward,  but  I 
soon  overtook  them.  To-day  we  come  to  Walnut  Creek, 
6  miles  from  the  mound.  I  felt  stupid  and  sick;  as  I 
was  placed  on  guard  last  night,  on  the  banks  of  the  Ar 
kansas.  I  was  all  alone  in  the  deep  midnight,  and  I  sat 
three  long  hours,  with  my  musket  ;  looking  up  and  down 
the  stream.  I  could  see  a  great  distance,  as  the  sand  on 
the  shore  is  very  white. 

1th. — We  were  preparing  to  take  a  buffalo  chase, 
when  wrord  was  brought  that  the  whole  command  must 
be  moving.  We  were  much  disappointed,  for  we  ex 
pected  fine  sport  in  the  chase.  On  our  route  to-day,  we 
passed  Ash  Creek,  and  five  miles  on  came  to  Pawnee 
Fork.  We  saw  herds  of  buffalo,  and  surrounded  one, 
but  they  made  a  break  towards  the  road  and  crossed 
among  the  teams.  They  did  no  damage,  however,  nor 
was  much  damage  done  to  them.  I  rode  on  briskly  to 
2 


overtake  a  friend,  when  my  horse  trod  in  a  hole  made  by 
prairio  dogs,  (a  small  animal  and  very  numerous  here,) 
and  fell  with  me.  I  received  no  injury  except  a  little 
skin  rubbed  off  my  knee.  On  remounting,  my  attention 
was  arrested  by  a  horse  running  at  full  speed,  and  drag 
ging  something  on  the  ground.  When  he  came  closer, 
I  discovered  it  to  be  a  man  whom  his  horse  had  thrown. 
The  frightened  animal  stopped  a  little  ahead  of  me  and  I 
rode  up,  expecting  to  see  a  dead  man,  but  as  soon  as  his 
foot  was  extricated  from  the  stirrup,  to  the  surprise  of  all, 
he  stood  up,  and  said  that  he  was  not  much  hurt.  He  said 
he  regretted  most  of  all  the  loss  of  his  clothes,  which 
were  torn  in  shreds  from  his  body.  Another  man  be 
longing  to  our  company,  by  the  name  of  Redwine,  had 
a  severe  fall.  He  was  taken  in  to  camp  nearly  dead. 
Chase  was  made  again  after  buffalo,  which  appeared  in 
thousands.  Many  antelopes  also  appeared,  but  it  re 
quires  the  fleetest  horses  to  overtake  them.  Before  we 
encamped  we  saw  near  the  road  side  a  little  mound  of 
stones,  on  one  of  which  was  engraved  the  name  of  R. 
T.  Ross.  It  was  supposed  to  be  the  grave  of  a  man 
who  was  murdered  by  the  Indians  in  1840.  He  is  rest 
ing  in  a  lonely  spot. 

8^. — We  are  now  on  the  banks  of  the  great  Arkansas 
river,  after  marching  many  miles  through  a  barren  and 
dreary  looking  country,  almost  destitute  of  grass  or  herb 
age.  Here  there  is  some  improvement  in  this  respect. 
A  heavy  rain  caused  our  tents  to  leak,  and  drenched  the 
poor  soldiers,  so  that  they  passed  a  very  uncomfortable 
night. 

9th. — Kept  up  the  river  ten  miles.  A  few  scattered 
cotton  trees,  and  cliffs,  and  sand  banks  are  the  only  things 
to  be  seen.  One  of  Col.  Mitchell's  men  was  near  being 
killed  to-day  by  an  Indian.  He  had  chased  a  buffalo  two 
miles  from  camp,  when  an  arrow  was  shot,  which  pierced 
his  clothes ;  the  poor  fellow  made  all  the  haste  he  could 
to  camp  with  the  arrow  sticking  in  his  pants.  It  was 
well  it  was  not  in  his  skin. 

IQth. — Last  night  as  soon  as  we  were  all  snugly  fixed, 
and  ready  for  sleep,  there  arose  a  fearful  storm  of  wind 


15 

and  rain,  which  gave  our  tents  and  ourselves  a  good 
shaking.  Some  of  the  tents  were  blown  down,  break 
ing  in  their  fall  the  ridgepoles  of  others,  and  bringing 
them  down  also.  In  our  tent,  four  of  us  held  on  with  all 
our  might,  for  nearly  two  hours,  to  keep  it  standing.  To 
day  we  continued  our  march,  travelling  15  miles,  on  the 
banks  of  the  river.  We  saw  a  large  flock  of  wild  geese 
and  tried  to  get  a  shot,  but  without  success.  They  were 
too  wild  for  us. 

llth. — The  weather  was  quite  cold  this  morning,  and 
there  was  so  dense  a  fog  as  to  prevent  us  from  seeing  a 
hundred  yards  ahead.  There  was  an  antelope  killed  to 
day.  The  flesh  tasted  like  mutton.  We  encamped  by 
the  side  of  the  river,  and  an  opportunity  was  afforded  us 
of  catching  fish,  which  we  accomplished  by  the  novel 
mode  of  spearing  them  with  the  bayonet.  Several 
dozens  were  caught,  and  we  found  them  delicious. 

12th. — Resumed  our  journey  through  the  same  scenery 
12  miles — many  antelopes  were  seen  in  herds,  and  prairie 
dogs  barked  at  us,  in  every  direction. 

Sunday,  13th. — As  we  proceed,  the  country  assumes 
a  still  more  dreary  aspect,  bare  of  verdure,  and  broken 
in  ridges  of  sand.  Our  horses,  enfeebled  by  their  long 
travel,  have  very  little  to  subsist  on.  The  men  too,  for 
the  past  three  days,  have  ceased  to  receive  rations  of 
sugar  and  coffee.  When  we  could  not  get  these  articles, 
we  did  as  they  do  in  France — that  is,  without  them.  We 
had  to  fry  our  meat,  and  a  few  of  us  entered  upon  the 
funny  work  of  making  soup  out  of  pork,  buffalo  flesh, 
and  fish,  boiled  up  together.  It  was  a  rare  mess,  but  we 
pronounced  it  first  rate. 

14:th. — After  passing  over  the  last  15  miles  to-day, 
we  found  ourselves  at  a  place  called  the  crossing  of  the 
Arkansas.  We  were  then  362  miles  from  Fort  Leaven- 
worth.  Our  course  has  been  along  the  margin  of  the 
river  for  75  miles.  At  this  place  are  steep  bluffs  difficult 
to  descend.  There  are  multitudes  of  fish  in  the  river, 
many  of  them  were  killed  by  the  horses'  feet  in  crossing. 
We  caught  several  varieties  by  spearing.  A  number  of 
antelopes  were  killed  here. 


16 

15th. — This  morning  I  felt  very  dull  from  loss  of  rest, 
We  had  to  give  considerable  attention  to  the  cattle, 
horses,  &c.,  to  prevent  them  from  straying.  I  and  seven 
others  were  detailed  to  stand  sentinel.  I  was  appointed 
to  the  second  watch,  and  to  be  in  readiness  at  the  hour, 
I  spread  my  blanket  down  in  the  prairie  to  take  a  nap. 
In  two  hours  I  was  awakened,  and  instructed  to  arouse 
the  Captain  of  the  Watch  at  the  expiration  of  three  hours 
more ;  having  no  means  to  measure  the  time  but  by  my 
own  sad  thoughts,  and  the  weary  hours  being  rather 
tardy,  I  too  soon  obeyed  the  orders,  and  kept  the  last 
watch  on  duty  five  hours,  to  the  amusement  of  all.  After 
breakfast  I  took  a  stroll  over  the  sand  hills,  and  found  about 
a  dozen  of  our  boys,  inspecting  the  contents  of  a  large 
basket,  something  like  a  hamperm  which  the  merchants 
pack  earthenware.  It  contained  the  skeleton  of  an 
Indian  chief  in  a  sitting  posture,  wrapped  in  buffalo  robes, 
with  his  arrows,  belts,  beads,  cooking  utensils,  &c.  It 
had  fallen  from  the  limb  of  a  tree,  on  which  it  had  been 
suspended.  Several  of  the  men  picked  up  the  beads, 
and  one  named  Waters  carried  the  lower  jaw  and  skull 
to  camp,  the  latter  he  said  he  intended  "to  make  a  soup 
gourd  of." 

16th. — I  took  my  seat  quietly  in  the  tent  this  morn 
ing  and  thought  I  would  rest,  as  we  were  to  stay  a  day 
or  two  at  this  place.  I  was  presently  surrounded  by 
soldiers  begging  me  to  write  a  few  lines  for  them  "to 
father,  mother,  wives,  friends  and  homes."  I  wrote  seven 
letters  without  removing  from  a  kneeling  posture,  and 
was  kept  busy  almost  the  whole  day. 

llth. — Our  Captain  told  us  to  get  ready  to  start  at 
10  o'clock  to-day,  and  as  we  were  to  cross  a  sandy 
desert  60  miles  wide,  much  water  and  provisions  were 
to  be  packed.  A  number  of  us  were  kept  busy  cleaning 
the  salt  from  pork  barrels  in  order  to  fill  them  with  water. 
Scarcely  had  we  finished  this  hard  job;  when  the  news 
spread  like  electricity  "that  the  mail  from  Fort  Leaven- 
worth  had  come  in."  I  cannot  pretend  to  describe  the 
scene  that  ensued.  I  met  our  Captain,  who  said  "the 
Sergeant  had  a  letter  for  me" — with  the  most  peculiar 


17 

feelings  I  seized  it  and  saw  the  hand- writing  of  my  loved 
sister  in  Maryland — ray  home,  now  so  many  weary  leagues 
away.  The  delight  I  experienced  was  not  unmingled, 
however,  with  the  thought  that  perhaps  at  this  very  spot, 
the  entrance  to  a  wild  desert,  I  had  bid  adieu  finally  to 
all  I  held  dear.  We  travelled  22  miles,  and  as  it  was 
late  at  night  when  we  halted,  we  spread  our  blankets  on 
the  sand  and  slept  soundly  till  morning. 

18th. — I  rose  by  day-light  and  took  a  slice  of  bread 
and  meat.  We  started  early  and  came  23  miles,  where 
we  found  some  water  standing  in  pools.  We  tried  to 
erect  the  tents,  but  the  wind  was  too  high — had  to  cook 
that  night  with  buffalo  chips  ;  strange  fuel  even  for  soldiers 
to  use. 

19th. — After  marching  10  miles  to-day,  we  came  to 
the  Cimarone  Springs — a  sweet  stream.  Here  we  found 
grass  enough  for  our  poor  horses.  It  is  truly  an  oasis 
in  the  desert. 

Sunday,  20th. — We  crossed  an  arm  of  the  Cimarone, 
but  the  waters  wrere  dried  up — dug  for  water  but  found 
none.  Went  on  5  miles  further,  dug  again,  and  procured 
enough  for  ourselves  and  horses.  In  our  route  of  25 
miles  we  saw  the  ground  encrusted  with  salt.  A  singu 
lar  animal  attracted  our  notice.  It  was  a  horned  frog, 
a  great  curiosity.  Every  thing  was  involved  in  a  thick 
cloud  of  dust. 

21s£. — One  of  the  members  of  the  Randolph  Company, 
a  gentleman  by  the  name  of  Jones,  died  last  night  of 
consumption.  He  took  the  trip  for  his  health,  but  to 
day  his  remains  were  interred,  not  far  from  the  camp,  with 
the  honors  of  war. 

22nd. — We  still  travelled  on  the  Cimarone,  though 
only  at  certain  places  could  we  procure  water.  A  deep 
sand  retarded  the  progress  of  the  army.  On  arriving 
where  we  had  to  encamp  we  found  42  wagons,  laden 
with  goods.  They  were  the  property  of  a  Mr.  Gentry, 
a  trader  who  has  amassed  great  wealth,  in  merchandising 
between  Independence,  Santa  Fe  and  Chihuahua.  He 
speaks  the  Spanish  language,  and  had  nearly  a  dozen 
Spaniards  in  the  caravan. 
2* 


18 

. — We  had  a  considerable  storm  last  night — and 
the  hard  rain  made  it  rather  disagreeable,  especially  so  to 
me,  as  I  had  to  do  the  duty  of  a  sentinel  in  the  first  watch, 
with  a  wolf  howling  most  dismally  within  50  yards  of 
me.  I  would  have  fired  at  him,  but  I  had  to  obey  orders 
and  not  arouse  the  camp  by  a  false  alarm.  We  saw  to 
day  the  bones  of  91  mules,  which  perished  in  a  snow 
storm  last  winter.  The  bones  were  piled  by  the  road 
side. 

24£A. — Overtook  another  caravan — still  passing  up  the 
Cimarone,  whose  bed  is  through  the  sandy  plain,  at 
length  we  came  to  a  hill  from  whence  we  descried  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  rising  abruptly  in  the  distance.  In 
our  route  we  crossed  a  small  spur.  Mr.  White  our  first 
Lieutenant,  with  several  others  ascended  one,  which 
presented  the  appearance  of  frowning  rocky  precipices. 
From  its  highest  peaks,  he  brought  down  seashell,  and 
petrifactions  of  various  kinds.  We  had  great  difficulty 
in  procuring  buffalo  chips.  It  was  very  amusing  to  see 
the  boys  in  search  of  this  indispensable  article,  our  only 
resource  to  cook  with. 

25th.— We  reached  "Cool  Spring"  to-day,  and  found 
refreshing  and  delightful  water,  bursting  from  a  solitary 
rock  of  enormous  dimensions,  the  sides  of  which  are 
covered  with  the  names  of  various  travellers.  Our  pleas 
ant  officer,  Mr.  White,  called  me  up  saying  "he  wished 
to  see  my  name  on  a  spot  he  pointed  out," — so  taking  a 
hearty  draught  from  his  canteen,  which  was  just  filled,  I 
went  up,  and  had  scarcely  carved  my  name,  to  remain 
there  a  monument  of  my  folly,  I  suppose, when  I  discover 
ed  my  horse  making  off  with  my  accoutrements,  canteen, 
&c.  Hurried  down  and  started  after  the  beast.  After 
running  a  great  distance  in  the  deep  sand,  I  succeeded 
in  capturing  the  runaway.  Nineteen  miles  further  on 
we  encamped  in  a  deep  ravine,  among  cliffs  and  rocks, 
here  a  few  cedar  trees  were  found.  They  afforded  a 
seasonable  supply  of  wood  to  cook  with.  The  Rocky 
Mountains  were  in  sight  all  day. 

26th. — After  a  slight  breakfast  of  bread  and  meat,  we 
left  this  inhospitable  place  in  disgust.  It  did  not  afford 


19 

grass  for  our  horses  to  graze  on.  We  proceeded  12 
miles  through  a  dreary  waste,  and  had  to  encamp  at  night 
in  a  place  where  there  was  no  water. 

21th. — I  was  awakened  by  the  Sergeant  of  the  Guard 
at  2  o'clock  this  morning,  it  being  my  turn  to  stand  senti 
nel  of  the  morning  watch.  After  breakfast  we  went  on 
15  miles  to  Cotton  Wood  Creek.  There  we  fixed  up  our 
tents,  but  no  forage  being  found  for  our  half-starved  animals, 
we  soon  took  them  down  again,  and  proceeded  5  miles 
on,  to  Rabbit  Creek.  At  this  place  there  was  plenty  of 
grass  and  some  tolerable  scenery,  but  we  were  in  no  con 
dition  to  enjoy  it ;  being  late  in  the  night  we  spread 
our  blankets  on  the  prairie,  and  composed  our  wearied 
limbs  to  rest. 

28th. — Our  journey  was  still  continued  through  a  dry 
and  sterile  land,  where  there  is  neither  wood,  water,  nor 
grass  ;  late  in  the  evening  we  came  to  a  pool  of  water. 
It  was  cool  and  good,  and  we  drank  of  it  freely.  Our 
wagons  did  not  come  up  till  very  late,  and  being  tired, 
we  wrapped  ourselves  in  our  blankets  and  laid  down  to 
sleep  without  our  supper.  We  went  supperless,  not  to 
bed — but  to  the  sod. 

October  1st. — The  last  two  days  of  September  we  re 
mained  at  a  place  called  Whetstone  Creek,  to  rest.  This 
Whetstone  Creek  is  another  oasis.  It  was  the  source  of 
great  joy  to  ourselves  and  our  mules  and  horses.  OUT 
pastime  was  like  the  boy's  holiday  whose  mother  allowed 
him  to  stay  at  home  from  school  to  saw  wood  and  bring 
water.  Our  resting  spell  was  a  spell  of  hard  work,  and 
most  industriously  did  we  labor  in  cleansing  our  arms 
for  inspection  by  the  Colonel.  And  we  had  to  do  a  deal 
of  marching  and  countermarching.  Indeed  the  parade 
lasted  so  long  and  with  so  many  manoeuvres  were  we  ex 
ercised,  that  the  patience  of  officers  and  men  was  worn 
to  its  extremity.  It  was  nearly  thread-bare.  And  then 
came  the  orders  for  every  man  to  see  to  his  own  pro 
visions  and  water,  as  another  desert  was  to  be  traversed. 
So  we  go — changing  from  bad  to  worse.  To-day,  after 
a  march  of  ten  miles,  we  reached  the  "Point  of  Rocks" 
— a  significant  name.  Late  at  night  we  encamped  in  a 
valley  between  high  mountains,  where  there  was  some 
grass,  but  no  water. 


20 

\Ve  still  moved  on  over  barren  rocks  and  sand 
hills.  We  labored  hard  all  day  to  leave  them  behind  us. 
The  hope  cheered  us  of  soon  finding  water,  we  realised 
it  at  the  far-famed  Red  River.  Our  whole  force  encamp 
ed  on  its  banks  about  night-fall.  The  waters  of  this  dis 
tinguished  river  are  brackish,  but  refreshing.  Incrustations 
of  salt  are  formed  upon  the  rocks  lying  above  its  surface. 
This  river  was  named  Rio  Colorado  by  the  early  Santa 
Fe  traders ;  who,  without  having  followed  it  down  to  any 
considerable  distance,  believed  it  to  be  Ihe  head  waters 
of  the  great  river  of  this  name,  which  flows  into  the  Mis 
sissippi  below  Natchez.  It  has,  however,  since  been  fol 
lowed  down  to  its  junction  with  the  Arkansas,  and  found 
to  be  the  Canadian  fork  of  that  river.  We  were  now 
within  140  miles  of  Santa  Fe,  having  marched  more  than 
600  miles  over  a  country  destitute  of  timber,  with  but  lit 
tle  water,  and  occupied  only  by  roving  bands  of  Indians 
who  subsist  wholly  upon  buffalo  meat.  We  saw  im 
mense  herds  of  that  animal  on  the  Arkansas  and  its  trib 
utaries.  The  whole  country  presents,  thus  far,  the  most 
gloomy  and  fearful  appearances  to  the  weary  traveller. 
But  rough  and  uninviting  as  it  is,  all  who  visit  New 
Mexico  via  Santa  Fe,  are  compelled  to  pass  it. 

3d. — We  have  journeyed  well  to-day,  having  reached 
St.  Clair  Springs.  It  is  a  beautiful  spot,  well  watered — 
and  glowing  in  delightful  verdure.  It  is  surrounded  by 
mountains,  the  surface  of  which  are  covered  with  craggy 
rocks.  We  searched  for  miles  around  our  camp  for 
wood,  with  little  success.  The  different  companies 
killed  a  number  of  antelopes  here. 

Sunday,  4th. — We  are  still  encamped,  and  shall  re 
main  in  our  position  till  the  morning  of  the  5th.  I  took 
a  walk,  to  "wagon  mound,"  so  called  from  the  shape  of 
its  top,  being  like  a  covered  wagon  when  seen  in  the  dis 
tance.  This  mountain  top  is  surrounded  by  a  cliff  of 
craggy  rocks  at  least  100  feet  in  height.  A  most  beau 
tiful  view  is  presented  to  the  beholder.  To  the  south 
you  see  hills  covered  with  cedar  and  pine,  situated  in  the 
immense  prairie ;  to  the  north  and  north-west,  are  seen 
mountains  with  rocks  piled  upon  rocks,  with  here  and 


there  groves  of  evergreens ;  far  away  to  the  east,  is  the 
desert,  over  which  we  had  just  passed.  The  sides  of 
this  mountain  are  covered  with  a  hard  kind  of  sand,  and 
pumice  stone,  having  the  appearance  of  cinder.  Whilst 
I  am  writing,  being  situated  as  far  up  as  it  is  prudent 
to  go,  an  adventurous  fellow  by  the  name  of  George 
Walton,  has  gained  the  wagon  top,  two  others  have  also 
ascended,  an  achievement  that  few  can  perform.  North 
of  us  there  is  a  salt  lake  which  we  intend  to  visit  this 
evening. 

Sunday  Afternoon. — Lieut.  Smith  and  myself  took  a 
stroll  to  the  lake.  We  found  a  thick  crust  of  salt  around 
its  edge,  which  is  several  miles  in  circumference.  We 
returned  to  camp  by  a  mountain  path,  very  difficult  to 
travel. 

5£/i.— Eighteen  miles  were  passed  over  to-day,  through 
a  mountainous  country.  We  had  just  erected  our  tents 
and  prepared  for  rest,  when  an  evidence  that  we  were  ap 
proaching  some  civilized  country,  arrived  in  the  shape  of 
a  Frenchman,  who  met  us  here  with  a  travelling  grocery. 
This  concern  came  from  Moras — a  barrel  of  whiskey 
was  strapped  on  the  back  of  a  poor  mule — which  stuff, 
some  of  our  soldiers  were  foolish  enough  to  drink:  it 
sells  at  $1  per  pint.  Such  dear  drinking  ought  to  make 
drunkards  scarce. 

6th. — Saw  a  mud  cottage  on  the  road  side  to-day. 
The  sight  was  most  pleasant  to  our  eyes,  accustomed  as 
they  were  for  forty-four  days  to  a  wild  waste.  As  we 
rode  up,  every  one  must  have  a  look  into  the  house.  It 
was  inhabited  by  a  native  of  North  Carolina,  whose  wife 
is  a  Spanish  woman.  After  being  somewhat  gratified 
with  the  sight  of  a  house,  though  built  of  mud  with  its 
flat  roof,  we  went  on  18  miles,  and  encamped  at  a  town 
called  Rio  Gallenas  Bagoes.  On  visiting  this  place  we 
were  struck  with  the  singular  appearance  of  the  town 
and  its  inhabitants.  The  town  consists  of  mud  huts  con 
taining  apartments  built  on  the  ground.  The  men  were 
engaged  in  pounding  cornstalks  from  which  sugar  is 
made  ;  the  women  with  faces  tattooed  and  painted  red, 
were  making  tortillas.  We  ate  some,  and  found  them 
excellent. 


7^. — The  wagons  which  contained  our  provisions 
coming  in  sight,  we  prepared  the  wood,  which  we  ob 
tained  with  difficulty,  for  boiling  the  coffee,  &c.,  when 
Col.  Mitchell  rode  up  and  told  us  the  wind  was  too  high 
to  encamp.  And  hungry  as  we  were,  we  went  ahead 
17  miles  through  a  forest  of  pine  to  Ledo  Barnell,  where 
we  encamped  for  the  night.  A  grisly  bear  was  killed  to 
day  by  some  members  of  the  Randolph  Company. 

$th — We  passed  the  large  village  of  San  Miguel  to 
day.  Col  Mitchell  and  his  interpreter  went  forward  in 
search  of  a  good  place  to  encamp.  The  weather  was 
dry  and  pleasant,  with  a  suitable  temperature  for  travel 
ling.  The  most  disagreeable  annoyance  is  the  sand, 
which  is  very  unpleasant  when  the  wind  is  high. 

9th. — Col.  Mitchell  had  chosen  a  spot  for  our  en 
campment,  about  12  miles  from  our  last  resting  place, 
near  the  foot  of  a  mountain.  There  was  no  water  to  be 
found..  Impelled  by  necessity  we  followed  an  Indian 
trail  over  the  mountain  5  miles,  and  after  riding  through 
the  thick  pines  for  several  hours  we  found  the  coveted 
treasure.  As  may  be  supposed  we  drank  most  heartily, 
after  which  we  filled  our  canteens  and  returned  to  camp 
about  12  o'clock  at  night.  We  learned  that  Santa  Fe 
was  about  25  miles  off. 

10th. — We  arrived  at  the  mountain  pass  at  10  o'clock, 
and  reached  Santa  Fe  about  3  o'clock  in  the  afternoon. 
The  glorious  stars  and  stripes  floating  over  the  city  was 
the  first  object  that  greeted  our  sight.  We  formed  and 
marched  into  the  town  in  order.  We  were  received  with 
martial  music  and  several  rounds  of  blank  cartridges  were 
fired  as  a  welcome  to  us.  We  paraded  in  the  square 
fronting  the  Governor's  house.  After  parade  I  took  a 
walk  through  the  town.  The  wagons  did  not  arrive  with 
our  tents  in  time  for  us  to  encamp,  and  with  our  blankets 
around  us,  we  laid  down  to  rest.  The  blue  sky  was  our 
canopy. 

Sunday,  llth. — It  was  so  cold  and  disagreeable  last 
night  that  I  found  it  impossible  to  sleep.  I  shivered 
through  the  night  on  the  hard  soil,  and  rose  this  morning 
with  a  severe  headache.  I  walked  about  to  keep  myself 


23 

warm.  After  eating  three  small  crackers  for  breakfast, 
I  went  to  church  in  company  with  several  others,  to 
hear  a  Catholic  priest.  The  music  was  prettily  perfor 
med  on  various  instruments.  An  old  man  in  the  mean 
time  turning  round  before  an  image,  and  after  he  had 
bowed  to  the  people  several  times  the  music  ceased.  All 
was  over — and  we  returned  to  camp.  I  felt  sick  and  sad, 
for  the  worship  did  not  refresh  my  spirits.  This  even 
ing  I  was  pall-bearer  to  a  member  of  the  Benton  Com 
pany,  who  died  in  the  hospital  soon  after  his  arrival. 
We  carried  him  out  about  a  mile  from  the  city  to  his 
final  resting  place.  Four  others  were  buried  to-day,  who 
died  from  fatigue  and  exhaustion.  They  belonged  to 
the  different  companies.  The  muffled  roll  of  the  drum, 
and  the  firing  of  the  farewell  to  the  dead,  did  not  have  a 
tendency  to  cheer  me. 

12th. — This  morning  the  roll  was  called,  and  various 
duties  assigned  the  soldiers.  Some  had  to  work  on  the 
Fort,  and  others  to  cut  and  haul  wood.  In  the  latter 
employment  I  had  to  become  teacher  to  some  green  hands. 
I  found  the  task  very  troublesome — but  performed  it  to 
the  best  of  my  ability.  In  the  evening  I  wrote  letters  to 
my  friends  in  Maryland. 

15th. — The  two  past  days  have  been  employed  in  pre 
parations  for  our  departure  from  Santa  Fe.  We  have 
encountered  much  trouble  and  perplexity  in  getting  teams, 
&c.,  have  to  travel  80  miles  up  the  mountains  where  we 
shall  take  up  our  winter  quarters.  We  went  out  6  miles 
and  encamped.  Having  a  severe  headache,  1  tried  my 
best  to  get  some  rest  at  night,  but  I  had  scarcely  fallen 
asleep,  when  I  was  awakened  by  the  officer  to  stand  guard. 
I  arose  mechanically,  feeling  pretty  much  as  I  should  sup 
pose  a  fellow  might  feel  who  was  on  his  way  to  execution. 
Taking  up  my  gun  I  went  to  a  large  fire,  wThere  I  sat  qui 
etly  for  two  hours,  watching  my  feelings  more  than  I  did 
the  camp,  for  I  was  very  unwell. 

16th. — The  breaking  down  of  some  wagons  detained  us 
here  till  late.  After  starting  we  met  a  number  of  Span 
iards,  mounted  on  mules.  We  passed  some  little  patches 
of  corn  badly  cultivated,  which  they  dignify  with  the 


24 

name  of  farms.  A  messmate  wishing  some  red  pepper, 
I  called  with  him  at  a  house,  but  it  was  all  "no  com- 
prenda" — "dont  understand  you"  so  we  got  no  red  pep 
per.  We  went  on  to  the  next  habitation  through  a  bro 
ken  country;  here  we  found  our  third  Lieutenant  with  the 
interpreter  arranging  for  our  camp.  As  we  had  to  wait 
for  the  other  companies  to  come  up,  I  rested  on  some 
corn  shucks,  and  very  pleasantly  did  the  bed  feel.  It  was 
a  bed  of  down  in  comparison  with  that  to  which  I  had 
been  accustomed.  I  had  slept  on  the  ground  for  more 
than  three  months.  Nothing  grows  spontaneously  in 
this  country  but  the  Spanish  broom. 

llth. — Colds,  and  other  complaints,  are  becoming 
common  in  our  ranks.  After  the  fatigue  of  marching  on 
foot  heavily  armed,  we  were  illy  calculated  to  do  the 
duties  of  the  camp.  Our  horses  being  too  much  enfeeb 
led  for  further  use,  after  our  arrival  at  Santa  Fe,  were 
sent  up  the  mountain  to  recruit.  Thus  our  hardships 
increase  with  our  progress.  The  ground  being  very  bro 
ken  where  we  encamped  to-night,  which  is  in  a  wheat 
field,  I  gathered  all  the  stubble  I  could,  to  make  our  beds 
soft  and  even — bought  some  wood  to  cook  with  from 
the  natives. 

18th. — I  started  alone,  and  tried  to  overtake  two  mess 
mates  who  had  gone  on  before  me.  I  had  not  proceeded 
more  than  6  miles  when  I  found  my  two  young  gentle 
men  playing  cards  on  the  road  side.  I  passed  them, 
and  came  to  a  village  where  I  saw  a  considerable  number 
of  Spaniards.  An  old  woman  invited  me  in  her  house 
and  set  before  me  some  tortillas  and  cornstalk-molasses 
which  were  quite  a  treat.  I  remained  there  several  hours, 
but  thinking  I  had  missed  my  way  I  was  about  to  take 
leave,  with  many  thanks  for  their  hospitality,  when,  to 
my  great  surprise  and  embarassment,  the  old  lady  and 
her  daughter  most  affectionately  embraced  me.  I  sup 
pose  it  was  the  custom  among  these  simple  hearted 
mountaineers,  but  of  which  I  was  quite  ignorant.  I  was 
thankful  for  the  meal  my  hostesses  had  provided  for  me, 
but  the  hugging  was  a  luxury  I  did  not  anticipate,  nor 
was  I  the  least  ambitious  of  having  it  repeated.  I  found 


25 

my  company  without  much  difficulty.  We  went  on  and 
crossed  the  Rio  Grande.  In  the  first  stream  I  got  my 
feet  wet ;  the  second  was  too  deep  for  wading,  and  I  was 
kindly  invited  by  our  Sergeant  to  mount  behind  him. 
We  encamped  there,  having  travelled  12  miles  that  day. 

19th. — We  were  surrounded  by  the  natives,  who  ap 
peared  friendly.  When  we  came  to  the  place  where  our 
our  horses  were  feeding,  we  learned  from  the  soldiers  in 
charge,  that  some  of  them  had  died,  and  that  several  had 
been  stolen  or  had  strayed  away — mine,  of  course,  was 
among  the  missing.  While  the  others  were  preparing  to 
mount,  I  shouldered  my  musket  and  walked  on,  in  sand 
half  a  foot  deep.  The  walk  was  exceedingly  tiresome. 
I  saw  large  quantities  of  wild  geese  on  the  Rio  Grande. 
After  marching  8  miles  we  encamped. 

20th. — All  on  horseback  this  morning  in  fine  style, 
except  myself  and  a  few  others  equally  unfortunate. 
We  made  the  best  use  of  our  scrapers  through  the  sand. 
After  walking  awhile  we  came  to  a  house  on  the  road 
side,  the  inhabitants  of  which,  men,  women  and  chil 
dren  came  rushing  out.  We  were  at  a  loss  to  know  what 
it  meant,  till  we  saw  them  surround  a  colored  man,  (our 
Surgeon's  cook,)  who  proved  a  novel  sight  to  them. 
The  poor  fellow  was  quite  mortified  at  being  made  a 
show  of  on  account  of  his  color.  We  went  on  8  miles 
and  encamped  among  the  Utah  Indians.  They  are  at 
war  with  the  Navihoes,  who  have  hunted  them  nearly 
down.  After  supper  I  asked  permission  of  our  Captain 
to  accompany  Mr.  White,  and  several  others  to  their  en 
campment.  Here,  around  a  large  fire  sat  an  Indian  chief 
with  his  squaws.  After  being  introduced  by  our  inter 
preter,  a  council  was  called.  After  some  jabbering,  a 
regular  war-dance  commenced.  Their  best  warriors, 
equipped  in  full  costume,  and  painted  most  hideously  in 
twenty  different  ways — danced  furiously  around  a  large 
fire,  to  the  music  of  kettles  and  drums.  It  was  a  horrid 
din,  in  which  mingled  the  war-whoop.  We  gazed  with 
astonishment  till  its  conclusion,  when  an  old  chief  made 
a  long  speech.  We  then  returned  to  our  camp  to  medi 
tate  upon  what  we  had  seen  and  heard,  and  to  wonder  at 
3 


26 

the  strangeness  of  character  and  habit  exhibited  by  those 
poor  creatures. 

21st. — We  were  surrounded  by  the  Indians  before  our 
breakfast  was  over.  They  came  on  to  Abique,  and  en 
camped  near  us.  There  are  several  villages  in  this  place. 
We  arrived  about  two  o'clock,  and  took  up  our  quarters. 
The  companies  under  Major  Gilpin  which  were  stationed 
there,  and  which  we  had  been  sent  to  relieve,  were  great 
ly  worn  and  reduced  with  their  long  stay  among  the 
mountains.  There  was  another  dance  at  night  in  the 
Indian  camp — being  much  tormented  with  sandburs,  I 
did  not  go  out.  We  had  to  eat  our  provisions  half 
cooked,  from  the  scarcity  of  wood.  I  and  a  messmate 
were  forced  to  "hook"  two  small  poles  from  a  fodder 
crib,  and  when  we  returned  to  camp  we  found  the  com 
panies  on  parade,  and  the  Captain  telling  them  the  order 
of  the  next  day. 

22d. — The  whole  command,  viz.  two  companies  from 
Col.  Price's  Regiment,  consisting  of  about  one  hundred 
and  eighty  men,  were  obliged  to  remove  to-day  four  miles 
further  up  the  river,  in  order  to  obtain  grass  and  fuel. 
This  place  being  entirely  destitute  of  either.  At  night, 
I  went  with  our  interpreter  and  third  Lieutenant  to  sev 
eral  houses,  to  buy  mutton.  While  on  our  errand  we 
met  with  some  ladies  ;  one  of  them  had  a  dough  face  ; 
all  the  rest  were  smeared  with  red,  and  to  my  fancy, 
not  at  all  beautiful.  We  returned  to  camp  without  our 
mutton,  and  not  a  little  disappointed. 

23d. — The  country  here  is  bare  and  sterile  to  a  great 
degree,  but  there  is  an  improvement  with  regard  to  fuel, 
which  is  so  necessary  at  this  season,  in  this  mountain 
ous  country.  I  believe  we  are  stationary  at  last.  I  was 
kept  busy  all  day  writing  letters  for  the  soldiers,  many 
of  whom  very  gladly  do  my  washing  and  mending  in 
return,  for  this  slight  service.  I  had  rather  at  any  time 
write  than  cook  and  wash  and  mend  clothes. 

24th. — I  felt  sick  to  day.  I  took  cold  from  a  severe 
drenching,  while  on  duty  as  a  sentinel  last  night.  A 
heavy  cold  rain  was  falling  the  whole  time.  I  strove  to 
assist  in  making  our  camp  as  comfortable  as  possible, 


27 

and  in  the  evening  despatched  two  letters  to  Santa  Fe, 
for  my  beloved  friends  in  Maryland. 

•  Sunday,  25th. — At  day  break  this  morning,  a  number 
of  Mexicans  came  to  camp  ;  jabbering  to  themselves  in 
a  great  rage  about  something.  At  first  we  could  not 
ascertain  the  cause  of  their  trouble,  there  being  no  inter 
preter  present,  and  none  of  the  soldiers  knowing  enough 
of  the  Spanish  language  to  comprehend  their  meaning  ; 
soon,  however,  it  was  discovered  that  about  sundown 
last  evening,  the  Captain  of  our  company  had  caused 
the  embankment  of  their  mill  and  irrigating  pond,  to  be 
broken,  a  short  distance  above  camp  on  the  bank  of  the 
river,  so  as  to  prevent  it  from  overflowing  the  bed  of 
his  tent.  The  water  of  course  rushed  out  with  great 
force,  tearing  the  embankment  down  and  washing  the 
earth  away  for  a  considerable  distance,  stopping  their 
mill  and  leaving  many  families  destitute  of  water  ;  all  of 
which  serious  injuries,  the  Captain  seemed  disinclined  to 
repair.  This  behavior  of  the  Captain  met  with  but  little 
favor  from  his  men.  To  their  honor  be  it  spoken. 

26th. — This  morning  our  Lieutenant  went  round  the 
camp  to  get  volunteers  to  repair  the  broken  ditch.  All 
seemed  unwilling  to  do  any  thing — some  had  their 
horses  to  find,  others  to  cut  and  haul  wood.  The  men 
had  no  idea  of  laboring  gratuitously  for  the  repair  of  a 
deed  wantonly  done  by  their  Captain.  I  with  several 
others  walked  four  miles  up  the  river,  with  our  axes,  for 
the  purpose  of  getting  wood.  We  crossed  the  river  sev 
eral  times  in  the  wildest  and  most  out-of-the-way  places, 
between  high  cragged  mountains  which  it  was  impossi 
ble  to  ascend.  We  returned  to  camp  with  our  wagon 
loaded,  though  we  encountered  great  difficulty  in  accom 
plishing  it.  We  found  there  was  a  disagreeable  mis 
understanding  among  the  officers  respecting  the  embank 
ment.  The  Captain  wished  soldiers  detailed  for  its 
repair,  and  the  Lieutenants  thinking  it  an  imposition  on 
the  poor  fellows  to  stand  in  the  mud  to  work  such  cold 

weather,  without  compensation. 

****** 

28th. — We  are  nowr  living  in  the  midst  of  the  greatest 
abundance  of  life's  luxuries.  As  an  evidence  of  our  high 


28 

living,  I  will  transcribe  our  bill  of  fare  for  the  week.  It 
is  as  follows: 

Monday. — Bread,  beef,  (tough  as  leather,)  bean  soup. 

Tuesday. — Tough  beef,  bread,  and  bean  soup. 

Wednesday. — Bean  soup,  bread,  and  tough  beef — and 
so  on  to  the  end  of  the  week. 

The  greatest  harmony  prevails  in  camp,  especially 
among  the  officers,  the  Captain  and  first  Lieutenant  are 
the  greatest  friends  imaginable,  they  do  every  thing  in 
their  power  for  the  good  of  the  company.  They  are  the 
bravest  and  most  patriotic  officers  in  the  regiment. 
In  this  lovely  and  fertile  valley,  encamped  on  the  banks 
of  the  Rio  Charma,  we  are  enjoying  all  the  blessings 
of  life.  We  are  charmed  by  the  surpassing  beauty  of 
4he  polished  Spanish  ladies,  and  living  in  so  much  har 
mony  with  each  other  that  we  almost  imagine  the  "garden 
of  Eden"  to  have  been  again  raised  for  our  enjoyment;  and 
then,  Oh!  heavens,  what  a  luxury,  amid  these  joys,  to 
feel  the  delightful  sensations»produced  by  the  gentle  and 
graceful  movements  of  a  Spanish  louse  as  he  journeys  over 
one's  body !  The  very  thought  of  it  makes  me  poetic,  and  I 
cannot  resist  the  temptation  of  dedicating  a  line  to  the 
memory  of  moments  so  exquisite.  How  appropriate  are 
the  words  of  Moore  to  such  occasions  of  bliss  ? 

Oft  in  the  stilly  night, 

Ere  slumber's  chains  have  bound  me, 
I  feel  the  cursed  creatures  bite, 

As  scores  are  crawling  round  me. 

0  not  like  one  who  treads  alone, 

The  banquet  halls  deserted; — 
In  crowds  they  crawl  despite  the  groan 

Of  him  whose  blood  they  started. 

When  I  took  up  my  Journal  to  add  a  few  items,  I 
found  the  above  had  been  written  by  some  wag,  in  my 
absence.  He  was  disposed  to  ridicule  my  description  of 
the  felicity  of  which  I  boasted.  Our  boys  are  rather 
mischievous,  and  I  must  confess  that  I  felt  rather  wag 
gish  myself  when  I  made  the  boast  of  our  possessing  Eden- 
like  pleasures.  The  continuation  of  my  narrative  pleased 


29 

me  so  well  that  I  consented  to  let  it  remain  as  it  was 
written.  Our  mischievous  feeling  and  manner  of  expres 
sion  is  the  most  innocent  way  in  which  we  can  relieve 
ourselves,  for  we  privates  are  suffering  many  privations 
while  some  of  our  officers  refuse  to  speak  to  each  other. 
I  am  glad,  however,  that  our  troubles  are  so  merrily 
turned  into  ridicule,  the  best  way  sometimes  to  treat 
them.  We  are  not  destitute  of  sport  however — many 
amusing  scenes  occur  among  us,  debating  societies  are 
formed  among  the  soldiers  in  which  the  most  absurd 
questions  are  dilated  upon  with  a  vehemence  and  mock 
seriousness  truly  laughable.  A  breakfast  of  coffee 
without  sugar,  some  very  poor  beef  soup,  and  onions 
sliced  up  with  parched  corn,  made  a  better  meal  for  us 
to-day  than  we  have  had  for  some  days  past.  Yesterday 
I  traded  off  two  needles  to  the  Spanish  girls  for  six  ears  of 
corn  and  some  onions,  it  was  a  trade  decidedly  profit 
able  for  both  parties.  In  company  with  our  first  Lieuten 
ant,  his  brother,  William  White,  Dr.  Dunlap,  and  a 
number  of  others,  I  went  up  on  a  high  peak  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains.  We  had  been  there  but  a  few  minutes 
when  it  commenced  snowing.  We  kindled  a  large  fire, 
and  amused  ourselves  by  listening  to  the  reverberations 
of  sound  produced  by  our  Lieutenant's  revolver,  who 
fired  six  rounds.  Becoming  thirsty,  we  searched  and 
found  water  in  the  crevice  of  the  rock  close  to  the  edge 
of  the  precipice.  It  was  too  far  below  the  surface  for  us 
to  drink  by  stooping  over,  and  William  White  proposed 
to  throw  in  gravel,  in  order  to  raise  the  water,  reminding 
me  of  one  of  ^Esop's  fables.  We  followed  his  advice 
and  the  water  was  soon  forced  to  rise  high  enough  for 
our  purpose.  The  snow  increasing,  we  came  down  and 
made  another  fire  in  a  large  hollow  of  the  rock,  where 
all  but  myself  sat  down  to  cards.  It  was  an  amusement 
that  I  did  not  relish,  and  I  sought  my  gratification  in 
loosing  the  rocks  and  rolling  them  down  the  side  of  the 
mountain,  which  is  at  least  a  thousand  feet  above  the 
level  of  our  camp. 

29th. — To-day,  Charles  Perkins  and  myself  took  our 
guns  and  proceeded  down  the  river  several  miles  in  search 
3* 


30 

of  game.  We  fired  at  several  flocks  of  wild  geese  and 
ducks,  but  it  only  scared  them  further  off.  We  passed 
several  Spanish  houses  on  our  return.  When  we  reached 
the  camp  we  found  the  soldiers  at  different  employments, 
some  playing  cards,  and  others  making  articles  to  sell  to 
the  natives.  A  Mr.  Hatfield  wras  engaged  in  the  manu 
facture  of  a  grindstone  to  trade  to  the  Spaniards  for  corn 
and  beans.  These,  with  onions,  are  the  only  vegetables 
they  grow. 

30th. — The  mountains  are  covered  with  snow,  and, 
after  raining  hard  all  night,  this  morning  it  is  clear  and 
cold.  We  made  the  best  preparations  we  could  to  send 
the  wagons  back  to  Santa  Fe  for  provisions,  as  late  last 
night,  our  second  Lieutenant  returned,  after  an  absence 
of  five  days,  and  brought  news  that  we  are  to  take  up  our 
winter  quarters  in  this  dreadful  region.  There  seems  to 
be  very  little  likelihood  of  our  going  south  at  all.  The 
officers  went  in  search  of  other  quarters  to-day. 

31s£. — We  had  a  heavy  fall  of  rain  last  night,  wrhich 
improved  into  a  snow  storm  before  morning.  I  slept 
very  uncomfortably,  as  a  high  wind  from  the  north  had 
full  sweep  in  the  door  of  our  tent.  We  were  inspected 
at  11  o'clock,  and  carried  through  all  the  evolutions  of 
the  drill.  After  the  parade  we  could  scarcely  keep  warm, 
though  wrapped  in  our  blankets,  and  crowded  around  the 
fire.  Yesterday  one  of  our  beef  cattle  died  from  starva 
tion.  The  Mexicans  came  down  and  took  it  off  to  their 
habitations.  We  might  have  made  a  speculation  by  sell 
ing  it  but  did  hot  think  of  it. 

Sunday^  November  1st.- — Several  of  my  mess  are 
going  up  the  mountains  to  look  for  their  horses.  I  offer 
ed  a  friend  $5  (should  I  ever  again  possess  that  sum) 
to  search  for  mine.  I  read  aloud  in  my  Testament  to 
some  of  the  boys, while  others  sat  apart,  or  pitched  quoits. 
At  night  a  Spaniard  came  in  camp  with  a  fiddle,  and 
played  a  number  of  tunes  which  so  exhilarated  my  poor 
half  frozen  companions  that  they  united  in  a  dance  which 
they  kept  up  till  a  late  hour. 

2nd. — Some  Taos  flour,  coarsely  ground  in  the  little 
native  mills  on  the  Rio  Grande,  badly  baked  in  the  ashes, 


31 

and  some  coffee  without  sugar,  now  comprise  our  only 
sustenance.  Between  meals,  however,  we  parch  some 
corn,  which  we  now  and  then  procure  of  the  natives  in 
exchange  for  buttons,  needles,  or  any  little  matter  we  can 
spare.  At  9  o'clock,  we  struck  our  tents,  and  marched 
down  the  river  two  miles  to  a  deserted  Spanish  house 
nearly  in  ruins.  The  inhabitants  were  murdered  by  the 
Navihoe  Indians.  This  is  the  place  where  we  are  to 
take  up  our  winter  quarters.  I  can  scarcely  describe 
this  wretched  den.  The  soldiers  have  looked  in  and 
they  have  become  very  dissatisfied.  They  were  told  by 
the  Captain  to  erect  their  tents  inside  the  wall.  All  the 
houses  in  this  region  having  that  protection.  We  could 
not  sleep  in  the  house  on  account  of  the  offensive  odor. 
The  tent  was  much  more  comfortable. 

3d. — As  soon  as  our  breakfast  of  beef  soup  and  coffee 
was  over,  some  of  the  men  were  appointed  to  scrape  and 
clean  the  house.  I  with  several  others  was  sent  to  the 
mountains  to  cut  and  haul  wrood.  After  walking  two 
miles,  we  procured  a  load  of  green  pine,  which  does  not 
grow  here  more  than  half  the  usual  size.  On  the  return, 
I  thought  I  would  take  a  near  cut  to  our  camp  alone.  I 
turned  into  a  foot-path,  which  led  me  to  the  top  of  a  high 
mountain.  Here  I  could  see  our  quarters,  though  a  long 
distance  off.  I  took  a  direct  course,  and  soon  arrived  at 
camp,  where  I  found  our  boys  writing  down  a  vocabulary 
of  Spanish  words.  They  have  become  very  erudite  of 
late. 

4:th. — All  this  day  we  did  nothing  but  write  down 
words  from  the  language  spoken  by  the  people,  who, 
from  their  complexion,  appear  to  be  a  mixture  of  the 
Spanish  and  Indian  races.  We  made  a  pretty  good 
dictionary  among  us. 

bth. — This  day  is  very  unpleasant.  It  is  raining  hard. 
At  4  o'clock,  our  first  Lieutenant,  Mr.  White,  returned 
from  Santa  Fe.  He  brought  bad  news.  He  could  get 
no  provisions,  except  one  fourth  rations  of  flour,  and  one 
and  a  half  barrels  of  mess  pork.  But  notwithstanding 
all  this,  our  boys  are  still  very  lively. 

6th. — We  had  great  labor  to-day  in  procuring  fuel 
sufficient  for  our  present  purpose,  and  the  prospect  of  a 


32 

long    and  severe  winter  before  us  makes  our  situation 
rather  unenviable. 

7th. — On  short  allowance  yesterday  and  to-day,  a 
little  bread,  (i.  e.'  two  pints  for  six  men,)  some  fried 
beef,  and  coffee  without  sugar, 

Sunday,  Slh. — Although  the  morning  was  cloudy  and 
cold,  I  walked  with  twenty  others  down  to  Abique  to 
church.  On  arriving  we  went  into  the  priest's  room. 
He  very  politely  invited  us  to  be  seated,  and  then  com 
menced  asking  all  kinds  of  questions  about  the  United 
States.  He  seemed  to  take  great  interest  in  teaching  us 
the  Spanish  language.  He  made  us  repeat  after  him, 
many  long  and  hard  words.  We  sat  two  hours  with  him 
and  then  went  in  church,  where  a  large  congregation 
was  assembled.  In  a  few  minutes  our  priest  made  his 
appearance,  dressed  in  gold  lace,  and  ascended  the  pul 
pit,  while  all  present  fell  on  their  knees.  The  music  of 
various  instruments  now  commenced,  the  priest  the 
meanwhile,  drinking  sundry  glasses  of  wine.  The  peo 
ple  remained  on  their  knees  till  the  music  ceased,  when 
all  retired. 

It  was  noised  among  the  soldiers  that  a  fandango  would 
take  place  in  the  evening.  Some  of  us  went  in  to  in 
quire  of  the  priest,  who  informed  us  that  the  fandango 
was  to  be  at  a  village  some  miles  further  off.  In  a  little 
while,  a  Mexican  guide  was  hired  to  escort  us.  After 
walking  a  mile  we  came  to  a  river,  when  this  Spanish 
fellow,  very  quietly  sat  down  to  pull  off  his  shoes,  and 
told  all  who  were  in  favor  of  wading  the  stream  to  follow 
his  example.  Eight  of  the  boys  immediately  commenced 
stripping  to  cross,  declaring  that  nothing  should  disap 
point  them  from  attending  a  fandango.  As  I  had  a  bad 
cold,  with  some  others,  who  felt  no  inclination  to  wet 
their  feet,  I  returned  to  our  quarters. 

9th. — All  this  day  in  the  mountains  cutting  wood. 

Wth. — I  went  with  several  others  to  search  for  lost 
horses.  We  had  not  gone  far  when  to  my  great  joy  I 
found  mine,  which  had  not  been  seen  since  we  left  Santa 
Fe.  We  heard  volleys  of  musketry  in  the  direction  of 
our  camp,  and  were  at  a  loss  to  understand  the  meaning, 


33 

till  on  our  return,  we  learned  that  a  dog  had  been  buried 
with  the  honors  of  war.     This  poor  dog  had  been  a  great 
favorite  with  our   Captain  and  all  the  company  ;  he  was 
most  foolishly  shot  by  a  soldier  on  guard  last  night.    The 
man  was  made  to  dig  his  grave,  and  will  be  detailed  on 
extra  duty  as   a  punishment,  the  Captain  being  much 
exasperated.       This    evening  I,  with  four  others   took 
rations  for  five  days,  in  order  to  drive  the  horses  down 
the  river  to  graze.     Late  at  night,  we  reached  a  Spanish 
village,  where  we  stopped.     A  mile  from  that  place,  a 
fandango  was  to  come  off,   and  the  ladies  of  the   place 
were  preparing  for  the  dance.     They  were  nicely  equip 
ped  in  their  best  finery,  and  the  soldiers  were  engaged  to 
accompany  them.     Not  being  very  desirous  of  attending 
the   fandango,    I    preferred   to    remain    and    try   to  get 
some  rest,  of  which  I  was  very  much    in  need.     The 
party   was   soon  prepared,  and    off  they  started,  leaving 
me  behind  to  cook  supper  and  arrange  matters  for  their 
comfort  when  they  should  return.     I  browned  the  coffee, 
jjied  the  beef,  made  the  bread,  and  having  all  things  in 
readiness,  I  drank  a  cup  of  coffee  and  laid  down  to  rest 
on  a  mattress  placed  on  the  floor.      As  far  as  the  thing  I 
laid  on  was  concerned,  I  was  comfortable  enough  ;  the 
mattress  was  a  luxury  ;  but  I  could  not  sleep  ;  the  reasons 
were  various.       I  was  lying  in  a  house,  when  I  was 
accustomed  to  dwell  in  tents ; — my  quarters  were  divided 
between  myself    several  donkies    and    mules  and   two 
small   children — the  odor  of  the  donkies  was")  not    the 
most  agreeable,   nor  their  noise    very   harmonious ;  the 
children  knew  their  mother  was  out  and  did  their  best  at 
crying.     The  woman  had  gone  to  the  fandango,  where  I 
hope  she  enjoyed  better  music  than  that  which  she  left 
for  the  lulling  of  my  sensibilities  into  sweet  slumbers. 

llth. — Our  soldiers  did  not  return  from  the  fandango 
till  3  o'clock  this  morning,  and  1  was  appointed  to  get 
breakfast  while  they  slept.  I  had  considerable  trouble 
in  accomplishing  this  service,  as  the  girls  crowded 
around  the  fire,  and  I  had  frequently  to  pass  the  frying 
pan  over  the  naked  feet  of  a  pretty  girl  who  was  sitting 
near  me.  In  company  with  a  young  Spaniard,  who  was 
exceedingly  agreeable  and  polite,  I  went  out  after  break- 


34 

fast  to  kill  wild  geese.     We  walked  a  long  distance,  and 
returned  unsuccessful. 

12th. — I  find  the  family  residing  here,  very  agreeable. 
I  was  invited,  and  almost  forced  to  accompany  them  to 
a  fandango  last  night  (for  they  do  little  else  but  dance.) 
All  on  horseback,  the  married  men  mounted  behind  their 
wives,  we  started.  A  little  baby  in  its  mother's  arms 
becoming  troublesome,  one  of  our  men,  who  said  he 
was  a  married  man,  most  gallantly  rode  up,  and  offered 
to  carry  the  little  creature.  The  mother  thankfully  re 
signed  it  to  his  charge.  There  was  more  pleasure  in  the 
idea  of  enjoyment  at  the  fandango  than  in  taking  care  of 
a  cross  child.  When  we  arrived  at  Abique,  an  old  man 
invited  us  to  partake  of  his  hospitality ; — an  invitation 
we  gladly  accepted.  We  went  in  accordingly,  and  after 
all  were  seated  on  the  floor  in  the  posture  of  a  tailor,  a 
large  earthen  vessel  was  placed  before  us  containingpepper 
sauce  and  soup ;  and  a  few  tortillas,  (a  thin  paste  made 
of  corn  rubbed  between  flat  stones.)  The  sauce  caused 
my  mouth  to  burn  to  a  blister.  The  people  are  very 
fond  of  condiments,  and  become  so  accustomed  to  them 
that  what  will  burn  a  stranger's  mouth  has  no  effect  upon 
theirs.  After  all  was  over,  we  went  across  the^  street  to 
to  attend  the  fandango.  From  the  crowd,  I  should  judge 
it  was  high  in  favor  with  all  classes  of  the  community. 
Some  of  the  performers  were  dressed  in  the  most 
fantastic  style,  and  some  scarcely  dressed  at  all.  The 
ladies  and  gentlemen  whirled  around  with  a  rapidity 
quite  painful  to  behold,  and  the  music  pealed  in  deaf 
ening  sounds.  I  took  my  seat  near  a  pretty  girl,  and 
every  time  she  leaned  on  my  shoulder,  which  she  did 
pretty  often,  her  beau  would  shake  his  head  in  token  of 
his  displeasure,  and  showing  his  jealous  disposition.  I  left 
the  place  about  10  o'clock,  and  returned  to  our  quarters. 

13th. — We  visited  our  camp  to-day  at  the  Spanish 
ruins.  The  Captain  and  officers  were  glad  to  see  us, 
especially  as  we  had  good  news  in  relation  to  the  horses. 
We  had  them  in  charge,  and  exhibited  them  to  our  com 
rades  as  the  trophies  of  our  success.  On  our  return,  we 
killed  two  wild  geese  and  four  rabbits,  which  we  found 


35 

a  great  help  to  our  stock  of  provisions  which  was  then 
very  low. 

14:th. — I  was  left  alone  with  the  Spaniards  to-day, 
while  our  boys  were  attending  to  the  horses.  My  Span 
ish  friends  are  very  courteous,  but  there  is  little  to  re 
lieve  the  monotony  of  our  intercourse,  as  from  my  igno 
rance  of  the  language  I  am  unable  to  converse  with  them. 
loth. — This  morning  we  had  one  of  our  wild  geese 
stewed  for  breakfast,  which  we  had  without  coffee,  and 
almost  without  bread.  After  breakfast  I  started  to  camp 
to  draw  provisions  of  some  kind.  When  at  camp  I  con 
cluded  to  remain  there. 

16th. — I  was  told   by  the  Sergeant  to-day,  that  there 

was  no  flour  to   issue.     He  referred  me  to  the  Captain, 

who  directed  young  Bales  and  myself  to  a  mill  some 

distance  off,  where  we  procured  60lbs.  of  unsifted  Taos 

flour  very  coarsely  prepared.     With  this,  we  returned, 

and  in  a  few  minutes  nearly  the  whole  was  appropriated 

to   the  use  of  the   half-starved  soldiers.      A  very  small 

portion    of  this  brown  flour  fell  to  our  share.        This 

evening  we   are   without   food,    or  nearly  so.       Martin 

Glaze,  an  old  veteran,  who  has  seen  service,  and  belongs 

to  my  mess,  got  a  few  ears  of  corn  and  parched  it  in  a 

pan,  with  a  small  piece  of  pork  to  make  it  greasy.     When 

it  was  done,  we  all  sat  around  the  fire  and  ate  our  supper 

of  parched   corn  greased  with  fat  pork.     The  weather 

to-night  is  extremely  cold. 

llth. — Awoke  early  this  morning  and  found  it  snow 
ing  very  hard.  At  10  o'clock  I  went  to  our  first  Lieu 
tenant's  quarters.  He  was  engaged  in  appraising  some 
cattle  which  are  pressed  into  our  service,  and  for  which 
the  natives  were  to  be  paid.  A  bull  has  just  been  killed, 
and  the  offals  are  being  greedily  devoured  by  our  poor 
fellows.  At  11  o'clock  to-day  our  third  Corporal  died, 
having  been  sick  with  camp  fever  and  inflammation  of 
the  brain  several  weeks.  At  3  o'clock  his  grave  was 
dug  and  the  poor  fellow  was  wrapped  in  his  blanket — 
and  buried  without  a  coffin.  To-night  there  are  several 
of  our  men  sick  with  the  measles,  supposed  by  our  Sur 
geon  to  have  been  brought  from  Santa  Fe. 


36 

18th. — The  snow  four  inches  deep — clear  and  very 
cold — another  grave  dug  to-day  for  a  member  of  the  Liv 
ingston  company,  making  five  who  have  died  since  we 
have  been  out  here.  They  are  all  buried  near  the  moun 
tain,  where  poor  Johnson  was  laid. 

20th. — The  past  two  days  have  been  employed  in 
procuring  wood,  which  is  hard  labor;  but  we  do  not 
complain  as  our  fare  is  improved  by  the  addition  of  bean 
soup  and  coffee. 

21st. — A  court  martial  was  held  this  morning  to  try 
our  fourth  Sergeant,  who  has  said  something  derogatory 
to  the  character  of  our  Orderly.  After  the  court  ad 
journed,  we  were  ordered  to  form  a  line.  Our  first 
Lieutenant  then  stood  in  front  and  read  the  proceedings 
of  the  court.  The  decision  was  that  our  fourth  Sergeant 
be  reduced  to  the  ranks,  for  slander.  It  was  ordered 
that  if  any  man,  or  men  should  thereafter  bring  false 
charges  against  the  officers,  he  or  they,  should  be  sent 
with  a  file  of  soldiers  to  Santa  Fe,  and  tried  at  head  quar 
ters,  &c.  The  company  was  then  dismissed.  Several 
of  my  mess  concluded  to  run  as  candidates  for  the  vacant 
place.  They  went  among  the  crowd  with  tobacco  and 
parched  corn,  electioneering.  I  was  placed  on  guard  at 
9,  and  had  to  stand  till  11  o'clock. 

Sunday,  22d. — A  gloomy  Sabbath  morning — I  felt 
badly,  but  concluded  to  go  to  church  at  Abique.  As 
soon  as  the  ceremonies  were  ended  I  went  in  the  priest's 
room  in  company  with  my  old  friend  Capt.  Markle  and 
several  officers.  After  sitting  awhile,  a  servant  brought 
in  a  dish  of  refreshments,  consisting  of  pies  and  wine. 
Placing  the  glass  to  my  lips  I  discovered  it  to  be  Taos 
whiskey,  as  strong  as  alcohol.  A  piece  of  the  pie,  I 
thought  might  take  away  the  unpleasant  taste,  so  I  crowd 
ed  my  mouth  full,  and  found — alas !  it  was  composed  of 
onions,  a  dreadful  fix  indeed,  for  a  hungry  man,  Taos 
whiskey  and  onion  pie  ! — the  very  thought  of  the  mess 
makes  my  mouth  burn.  When  I  returned  to  camp  I 
found  nearly  every  individual  busily  engaged  at  cards. 
Elias  Barber,  a  messmate,  was  taken  sick  with  the 
measles.  The  disease,  is  now  raging  among  the  troops. 


37 

23d. — We  had  great  trouble  in  procuring  fuel  to-day. 
We  had  to  travel  far  up  the  mountain  for  it,  and  it  is 
exceedingly  difficult  to  cook  with  it  out  of  doors  in  the 
deep  snow.  It  fell  to  my  lot  to  make  the  bread,  and  I 
had  much  ado  to-night,  to  make  the  mass  stick  together. 
I  felt  more  than  usual  fatigue  after  the  parade. 

24th. — Elias  Barber  is  very  sick  to-day.  He  spent  a 
wretched  night  last  night  in  a  thin  cotton  tent.  The 
wind  is  blowing  on  him  constantly,  while  the  measles 
are  out  very  thick.  I  went  to  the  Captain  this  morning 
and  informed  him  of  the  situation  of  the  young  man. 
He  told  me  if  I  could  procure  a  place  in  the  house,  he 
might  be  brought  in.  I  therefore  went  and  after  making 
preparations  to  move  him,  I  was  told  that  no  such  thing 
should  be  done.  I  then  tried  to  get  an  extra  tent  to 
place  over  the  one  we  are  sleeping  in,  and  even  this  was 
denied  me.  The  poor  fellow  is  lying  out  of  doors,  ex 
posed  to  all  the  inclemency  of  this  cold  climate.  And 
last  night  it  was  so  cold  that  the  water  became  frozen  in 

,  j, 

our  canteens.  The  Surgeon  appears  interested,  but  it  is 
all  to  no  purpose — nothing  further  is  done  for  the  com 
fort  of  the  sufferer.  May  the  Lord  deliver  me  from  the 
tender  mercies  of  such  men  ! 

25th. — I  felt  quite  unwell  all  day  to-day.  I  suffered 
much  from  a  severe  attack  of  diarrhoea.  Our  lodgings 
are  very  uncomfortable.  I  went  down  to  the  Rio  Grande 
to  get  water,  and  found  it  nearly  frozen  over.  A  great 
mortality  prevails  among  the  troops  who  are  dying  from 
exposure  and  disease. 

26th. — I  was  very  much  engaged  all  day,  in  nursing 
poor  Barber.  He  is  worse  to-day,  the  measles  having 
disappeared  from  the  surface.  I  sat  by  him  the  livelong 
night  and  listened  to  his  delirious  ravings,  and  I  felt  sad 
to  think  I  had  no  means  of  relief.  At  4  o'clock  this 
morning  the  Captain  came,  and  finding  him  so  ill, 
brought  out  a  tent  to  cover  the  one  he  laid  in. 

21th. — Last  night,  my  messmate  Philips  returned  from 
Santa  Fe,  with  a  message  from  Col.  Price  to  the  differ 
ent    Captains,  to  send  on  ten  men  from  each  company, 
as  an  escort  for  Col  Mitchell,  who  was  about  to  start  for 
4 


38 

Chihuahua.  From  thence  he  is  to  proceed  to  open  a 
communication  with  General  Wool.  To-day  an  express 
arrived  from  Col.  Mitchell  for  the  same  purpose.  We 
were  hastily  paraded  to  ascertain  how  many  would 
volunteer  to  go,  when  I,  with  five  others  of  my  company, 
stepped  out  of  'the  ranks,  and  had  our  names  enrolled. 
We  were  satisfied  that  we  could  not  render  our  situation 
worse,  and  hoped  any  change  might  be  for  the  better. 
We  hastened  to  the  grazing  ground,  over  the  mountain, 
for  our  horses,  which  occupied  us  all  day.  Mine  was 
gone  of  course.  To  prevent  delay,  I  gave  my  note  to  a 
young  man  for  a  horse  which  belonged  to  a  deceased 
soldier. 

28th. — A  full  company  having  been  made  up,  this 
morning  we  gathered  at  our  quarters,  and  were  ready  at 
8  o'clock  to  take  leave  of  our  kind  hearted  comrades. 
They  bid  us  "good-bye,"  with  many  expressions  of 
regret,  and  injunctions  to  write  often.  We  pursued  our 
journey  35  miles,  and  put  up  late  in  the  evening  at  the 
house  of  a  rich  Spaniard,  who  accommodated  us  with  an 
empty  room  twenty  feet  square,  but  it  had  so  small  a  fire 
place  that  we  could  not  use  it  for  our  culinary  purposes,  so 
wre  were  forced  to  do  most  of  our  cooking  in  the  open  air. 
It  fell  to  my  lot  as  usual  to  make  the  bread,  and  I  knead 
ed  forty  pounds  of  Taos  flour  in  a  mass,  and  baked  thirty- 
six  good  sized  cakes,  while  two  others  prepared  our 
camp  kettles  of  coffee,  &c. 

Sunday,  29th. — At  4  o'clock  we  ate  our  breakfast, 
and  were  on  the  road  by  daylight.  We  travelled  all  day 
without  stopping,  and  arrived  at  Santa  Fe  at  6  o'clock 
in  the  evening.  We  went  immediately  to  the  American 
Hotel  where  supper  was  provided  for  us.  Nineteen  men 
sat  down  to  the  table,  none  of  whom  had  enjoyed  such  a 
privilege  for  nearly  four  months.  All  were  hungry,  and 
it  was  amusing  to  see  how  we  tried  to  eat  our  landlord 
out  of  house  and  home.  After  supper  we  retired  to  our 
quarters  in  a  very  small  room. 

BOth. — Word  was  sent  from  Col.  Mitchell  this  morn 
ing  for  us  to  parade  before  the  Governor's  house  for  in 
spection.  Our  horses  were  also  examined,  and  all  being 


39 

found  in  good  order  for  the  trip,  we  were  dismissed  and 
conducted  to  our  quarters,  in  the  court  house ;  where  we 
drew  our  rations,  viz.  thirty  pounds  of  good  American 
flour,  with  pork  enough  to  last  five  days. 

December  1st. — Paraded  again  soon  after  breakfast,  and 
were  told  by  our  Captain,  that  previously  to  our  depart 
ure,  we  must  all  march  to  the  sutler's  store,  and  acknow 
ledge  our  indebtedness  to  him,  so  up  we  rode  in  right  order 
and  dismounted.  We  had  a  peep  at  our  accounts,  and 
I  found  mine  to  be  $30  75.  I  had  purchased  a  few 
articles  of  clothing  on  my  route,  being  forced  to  do  so 
from  necessity.  I  was  therefore  not  surprised  at  the 
amount,  especially  when  I  read  the  prices  of  some  the 
articles,  viz.  a  small  cotton  handkerchief  $1 — suspenders 
$1 — flannel  shirt  $3 — tin  coffee  pot  $1  50,  &c.  &c. 
Here  we  bade  farewell  to  our  Captains,  who  had  accom 
panied  us  to  Santa  Fe  to  see  us  off.  Captain  Williams 
shook  me  cordially  by  the  hand,  saying,  he  had  no  ex 
pectation  of  seeing  me  again  in  this  world.  Captain 
Hudson  now  took  charge,  and  rode  with  us  two  miles 
out  of  town — here  he  informed  us,  we  had  a  dangerous 
road  to  travel,  but  would  leave  us  to  the  care  of  Lieuten 
ant  Todd  for  two  days,  till  we  were  joined  by  Col. 
Mitchell  and  himself.  He  returned  to  town,  and  we 
came  on  four  miles  and  stopped  at  a  house,  whose  master 
sold  us  forage  for  our  horses  and  wood,  it  being  severely 
cold.  Sixty  of  us  occupied  two  large  rooms  for  the 
night. 

2d. — We  marched  25  miles  to  a  'place  called  San 
Domingo,  and  took  quarters  in  a  deserted  house.  This 
is  a  considerable  place,  with  a  handsome  church,  which 
was  being  illuminated  when  we  arrived.  In  a  little  time 
the  bells  began  to  ring,  and  there  was  a  firing  of  musket 
ry  and  considerable  commotion  at  the  door  of  the  church. 
Several  of  our  soldiers  were  induced  to  go  up  and  inquire 
into  the  meaning  of  the  uproar.  We  were  told  that  a 
converted  Indian  chief  had  just  died,  and  all  this  was  to 
prevent  him  from  going  down  to  purgatory.  The  roll  of 
the  drum  and  firing  continued  a  long  time,  when  the  cere 
monies  commenced  in  the  church,  from  the  door  of  which 


40 

we  saw  many  large  wax  candles  burning,  but  not  being 
permitted  to  enter  we  very  quietly  retired. 

3d. — After  travelling  six  miles  we  came  to  an  Indian 
village  called  San  Felippe,  and  two  miles  further  down 
the  Rio  Grande  we  encamped  in  the  midst  of  a  good 
pasture  for  our  horses.  After  supper,  our  Lieutenant 
told  me  1  was  honored  with  the  appointment  of  Captain 
of  the  watch.  In  consequence  of  this  distinction,  I  had 
to  be  up  nearly  all  night.  It  was  very  cold.  We  were 
now  comparatively  happy,  for  we  had  plenty  of  good 
flour  from  the  States,  with  coffee,  sugar,  &c. 

4th. — We  learn  that  we  shall  be  obliged  to  stay  here 
till  Col.  Mitchell  comes  up  with  the  other  company,  so 
we  seize  the  opportunity  to  have  our  horses  shod.  Two 
blacksmiths  are  now  at  work;  I  have  just  bought  a  set 
of  shoes  and  nails  from  our  sutler  for  $3. 

5th. — The  weather  has  moderated  somewhat,  but  the  face 
of  the  country  presents  nothing  inviting  at  this  season  of 
the  year.  Every  thing  has  a  desolate  and  wintry  appear 
ance.  There  being  no  food  for  our  horses,  we  chopped 
down  some  limbs  of  the  cotton  wood  tree  for  them  to  eat. 
We  then  went  to  a  Mexican  village  to  buy  corn.  Hav 
ing  no  money,  I  took  some  tobacco  and  buttons  to  trade 
for  the  corn.  While  here,  I  sold  my  greasy  blanket  for 
a  Navihoe  one,  with  a  meal  for  my  horse  in  the  bargain. 
The  man  with  whom  I  traded  was  very  kind;  he  set  be 
fore  me  some  corn,  mush  and  sausages,  but  being  season 
ed  with  onions,  I  declined  eating.  He  then  brought  in 
some  corn  stalk  molasses,  which  I  mixed  with  water  and 
drank,  thanking  him  for  his  hospitality.  I  returned  to 
camp,  when  I  found  that  Col.  Mitchell,  and  the  baggage 
wagons  had  arrived.  I  was  officer  of  the  guard  to-night, 
and  up  till  12  o'clock. 

Sunday,  6th; — Formed  in  line  by  our  Colonel  in  the 
midst  of  a  heavy  shower  of  rain,  and  marched  down  the 
Rio  Grande,  a  long  distance.  Our  course  is  due  south, 
keeping  the  river  constantly  on  our  right,  and  ranges  of 
mountains  on  our  left  hand.  We  passed  many  villages, 
and  at  night  encamped  near  one. 

1th, — Rising  early  this  morning  to  prepare  breakfast, 
I  found  the  snow  four  inches  deep,  and  still  snowing 


41 

very  fast.  Marched  in  right  order  15  miles,  and  after 
passing  several  towns  situated  on  the  banks  of  the  river, 
we  stopped  at  night  at  the  large  town  of  Albikirk. 
Here  are  garrisoned  one  hundred  and  fifty  regulars  ; 
near  whose  quarters  we  encamped  in  a  large  room  100 
feet  by  40.  In  this  place  we  found  a  number  of  soldiers, 
some  engaged  in  tailoring,  some  playing  cards,  and 
others  amusing  themselves  in  various  ways. 

8th. — The  country  through  which  we  passed  to-day 
is  thickly  dotted  over  with  towns  and  villages,  whose 
names  I  cannot  remember,  but  the  road  is  dismal  enough, 
being  still  among  the  mountains,  where  every  object  the 
eye  rests  upon  is  covered  with  snow.  The  cold  is  very 
intense.  We  pitched  our  tents  to-night  under  the  walls 
of  a  town.  We  had  six  small  ears  of  corn  for  our 
horses,  and  no  fodder.  I  went  to  the  Quarter  Master 
and  was  informed  by  him  that  the  Mexicans  had  refused 
to  sell  us  any  thing.  I  cut  some  buttons  from  a  uniform 
jacket,  and  with  them  tried  to  purchase  food  for 'my 
horse,  but  I  was  refused  every  where.  I  sat  down  and 
made  out  a  requisition,  and  with  several  others  went  to 
their  large  stacks,  ten  feet  high,  which  we  ascended,  and 
threw  down  a  large  turn  for  each.  We  succeeded  in 
coming  off  with  our  booty,  and  in  a  few  minutes,  we 
were  in  bed.  We  were  not  disturbed  in  conscience  in 
the  least,  being  fully  covered  by  the  axiom,  "necessity 
knows  no  law." 

9th. — We  were  called  up  this  morning  to  lead  our 
horses  into  ranks,  when  two  guns  and' a  sabre  were  miss 
ing.  They  had  been  taken  from  the  tents  by  the 
Mexicans.  After  the  line  was  formed,  Col.  Mitchell 
ordered  the  men  who  had  lost  their  arms,  to  march  out. 
He  then  told  them  they  would  be  left  behind  to  search 
the  town,  assisted  by  the  alcade,  and  if  they  should  not 
find  their  arms  they  would  have  to  return  to  Santa  Fe. 
We  then  left ;  marched  ten  miles  and  encamped  near  a 
village.  Our  interpreter  was  sent  to  procure  forage  for 
the  horses,  but  he  returned  with  the  news  that  none 
could  be  had.  Our  Captain  told  the  Sergeant  to  go  up 
with  a  file  of  soldiers  and  take  what  was  wanting.  He 
4* 


42 

formed  a  line  of  twenty  men,  I  among  them,  and  march 
ed  off  with  our  Orderly  at  the  head,  and  second  Sergeant, 
with  the  bags  to  put  the  corn  in.  At  the  door  of  the 
house,  we  were  ordered  to  halt.  The  lock  was  broken, 
and  we  entered,  filled  our  sacks  and  packed  them  down 
to  the  camp.  In  this  adventure  I  made  the  acquaintance 
of  a  young  man  by  the  name  of  Hepbourn.  He  was 
born  and  raised  in  Prince  George's  County,  Md.  After 
supper,  we  were  all  ordered  up  to  draw  fifteen  rounds  of 
cartridges.  A  strong  guard  was  ordered  out  to-night. 

10th. — Having  orders  to  march  very  early,  we  rose 
by  light  and  proceeded  down  the  river  18  miles,  the 
country  presenting  very  much  the  appearance  already 
described.  We  saw  a  few  vineyards,  surrounded  by 
walls.  I  felt  miserably  disordered  from  the  cold  and 
loss  of  rest.  I  was  just  about  to  sit  down  to  supper, 
which  I  thought  might  revive  me,  when  our  Orderly 
came  by,  requesting  the  men  to  form  in  line  immediately, 
as  the  Captain  wished  to  read  the  Articles  of  War.  We 
stood  just  one  hour  and  listened  to  the  dry  detail. 
When  the  reading  was  concluded,  we  returned  to  our 
tents.  After  supper,  sixteen  men  were  detailed  on  guard. 
I  stood  two  hours  the  first  watch,  and  three  hours  before 
day-light.  It  was  extremely  cold. 

llth. — The  roll  was  called  at  day-break,  and  after 
parade  we  continued  our  march  12  miles  and  encamped 
in  a  town  among  the  mountains.  Wood  was  very  scarce, 
and  the  severity  of  the  weather  increasing. 

12th. — We  eat  our  breakfast  at  day-light.  It  consist 
ed  of  mess  pork  and  bread,  half  baked  by  a  miserable 
fire.  We  went  12  miles  to  a  place  where  there  is  a  fine 
supply  of  wood.  Our  poor  fellows  had  the  satisfaction  of 
having  a  good  fire  all  night,  and  it  was  very  necessary, 
for  the  weather  was  tempestuous  with  cold  gusts  of  wind 
and  snow. 

Sunday,  13th. — At  one  o'clock  this  morning  I  awoke 
and  found  myself  so  cold  that  I  arose  and  went  to  the 
guard  fire  to  thaw  myself.  I  stood  by  the  fire  till  day 
light.  The  Captain  in  his  round  to  visit  the  guard, 
stopped  at  the  fire,  and  I  had  a  pleasant  chat  with  him. 


43 

He  is  very  clever  and  condescending.  He  remained  an 
hour  or  two,  and  then  woke  up  the  Orderly  to  have  all 
in  readiness  for  a  start.  We  came  over  the  mountain 
four  miles,  where  our  road  intersected  the  river  again, 
passed  a  town,  and  further  on  encamped  near  the  river. 
Our  interpreter  bought  a  beef  from  the  natives,  also  a 
little  wood  to  cook  it.  The  wild  geese  are  very  numer 
ous  here. 

14th. — The  roll  was  called  very  early  this  morning — 
and  as  my"norse  had  a  sore  back,  I  asked  the  Captain's 
permission  to  walk  behind  the  wagons.  I  walked  all 
this  day  and  led  my  horse.  "When  I  came  up  to  the  en 
campment  I  found  that  my  mess  had  supper  ready.  It 
consisted  of  a  kind  of  chicken  pie,  bread  and  coffee.  I 
relished  the  supper  very  much,  but  by  way  of  desert  I 
received  information  that  I  had  to  stand  sentinel.  I 
walked  my  post  two  hours  and  then  went  to  bed  ;  being 
too  cold  to  sleep,  I  got  up  at  two  o'clock,  and  went  to 
the  guard  fire.  The  guard  said  he  was  very  sleepy  and 
would  lie  down  if  I  would  consent  to  serve  while  he 
slept.  To  this  I  readily  agreed — and  he  laid  down, 
while  I  made  a  large  fire,  which  soon  attracted  the  atten 
tion  of  the  other  sentinels,  and  several  of  them  collected 
around  it.  We  enjoyed  each  others  conversation  till  the 
morning  dawned. 

15th. — I  woke  up  the  Sergeant,  who  said  we  had 
walked  our  post  four  hours  over  the  time.  I  received  the 
compliment,  but  did  not  tell  him  that  we  had  sat  by  the 
fire  all  the  time.  In  his  Irish  brogue,  and  with  a  pipe 
in  his  mouth,  he  proceeded  to  call  the  roll.  We  are  to 
stay  here  till  the  17th. 

IQth. — Having  secured  some  beef,  I  made  a  large  fire 
to  get  an  early  breakfast.  Yesterday  our  Quarter  Master 
pressed  a  lot  of  seven  very  good  cattle  from  the  Mexi 
cans.  Last  night  a  strong  guard  of  twenty  men  was 
stationed  around  our  camp.  The  weather  is  still  raw 
and  cold.  We  are  yet  among  the  mountains. 

Ylth. — This  morning  we  reached  the  second  crossing 
of  the  Rio  Grande.  Four  miles  beyond  the  crossing, 
we  overtook  Col.  Doniphan's  command,  and  encamped 


44 

near  them.  Having  to  walk  and  lead  my  horse,  I  did 
not  come  up  till  all  were  fixed.  I  found  our  boys  very 
angry  at  a  circumstance  which  they  related  and  made  me 
write  down,  with  a  promise  to  publish  it — which  prom 
ise  I  now  fulfil.  While  on  the  march  to-day,  the  Cap 
tain  ordered  a  halt,  and  told  the  soldiers  that  he  had  been 
requested  by  the  Lieutenants  to  beg  them  all  not  to  come 
near  their  fire  or  tents,  as  it  incommoded  them  greatly. 
He  stated  on  his  own  behalf,  as  well  as  on  behalf  of  the 
other  officers,  that  it  was  quite  a  nuisance  to  have  the 
privates  lurking  about  their  tents  and  fires.  He  said  that 
something  might  be  "hooked"  and  that  the  Lieutenant 
had  already  lost  some  saleratus,  &c.  This  was  a  poser. 
Our  poor  fellows  could  hardly  endure  it.  Some  of  them 
were  much  exasperated.  I  tried  to  soothe  them,  and 
told  them  no  other  harm  was  meant  than  a  slight  intima 
tion  that  we  must  keep  away  at  meal  times,  as  a  know 
ledge  of  their  better  fare  might  make  us  dissatisfied,  &c. 
All  passed  off  better  than  I  expected.  We  had  to  go  a 
mile  for  water,  and  the  thermometer  at  zero. 

18th. — The  situation  of  our  tents  was  by  no  means 
pleasant.  There  was  much  complaint  about  stones  and 
hillocks,  lying  hard,  &c.  Breakfast  over,  I  started  with 
the  wagons,  in  company  with  some  others,  whose  horses' 
backs  were  sore.  I  felt  stupified  from  the  cold  and  loss 
of  rest,  having  walked  my  round  five  hours  last  night. 
We  went  on  12  miles,  which  we  trudged  on  foot.  At 
night  we  cut  some  branches  of  the  cotton  wood  for  our 
horses  to  eat.  We  were  preparing  to  rest,  when  our 
Captain  told  us,  if  any  man  lost,  his  horse  he  would  have 
to  walk  back  to  Sante  Fe.  He  further  said,  that  we  had 
to  go  through  a  gloomy  region  or  desert,  85  miles  in 
extent,  where  no  wood  or  water  could  be  procured.  He 
advised  us  to  go  to  work  and  prepare  food  enough  to 
last  three  or  four  days.  I  made  up  30  Ibs.  of  flour  and 
baked  eighteen  cakes,  while  the  balance  was  attended  to 
by  my  mess. 

19th. — We  were  all  busy  providing  against  the  perils 
of  our  difficult  and  dangerous  march.  We  shall  have 
to  keep  close  company,  as  the  Navihoe  Indians  roam  this 


desert  in  bands.  At  11  o'clock  we  moved  off  in  fine 
order,  and  marched  15  miles  over  the  dreary  plain.  At 
8  o'clock  at  night  the  Captain  ordered  a  halt.  We  picked 
up  a  few  weeds,  kindled  a  little  fire,  took  a  cold  cut  of 
bread  and  meat,  and  laid  on  the  ground  to  rest,  without 
erecting  the  tents.  A  young  man  having  drank  to  much 
of  the  "ardiente,"  very  unluckily  offended  one  of  the 
officers,  and  was  ordered  to  be  tied  to  the  wagon  wheel. 
He  cut  a  variety  of  capers  while  this  was  being  done. 
His  friends  soon  set  him  at  liberty. 

20th. — The  news  of  a  "spring  in  the  desert"  was 
brought  by  some  scouts,  who  had  started  out  on  an  ex 
ploring  expedition.  They  found  the  spring  in  a  place 
full  6  miles  from  our  road.  We  drove  the  cattle  over  a 
miserably  rough  path  to  drink  from  the  spring,  which 
turned  out  to  be  a  muddy  pool.  We  afterwards  marched 
15  miles  and  encamped  late  at  night.  We  took  a  slice 
of  bread  and  meat  and  laid  down  to  rest  on  our  blan 
kets. 

21sf. — The  appearance  of  our  Captain  very  early  this 
morning  aroused  us.  He  came  with  the  intelligence 
that  Major  Gilpin  had  sent  on  an  express  last  night  for 
a  reinforcement,  as  he  was  expecting  an  attack  every 
moment  from  the  enemy.  In  a  few  minutes  we  were  on 
the  march,  and  without  stopping  to  take  breakfast  we 
travelled  35  miles.  We  encamped  late  at  night  3  miles 
from  the  river,  where  men  and  beasts,  thirsty  and  weary, 
were  refreshed.  I  was  afraid  my  horse  would  kill  himself 
drinking.  With  six  others,  I  pressed  some  oxen  from  the 
traders,  whom  we  found  encamped  here,  as  the  most  of  our 
team  had  given  out  and  were  left  upon  the  road. 

22nd. — Passed  over  14  miles  of  broken  wretched 
country  to-day,  the  soil  of  which  produces  nothing  but  a 
kind  of  shrub  called  soap-weed.  The  inhabitants,  it  is 
said,  use  this  weed  in  washing  their  clothes.  We  en 
camped  in  a  rough  place,  among  stones  and  hillocks. 

23rd. — I  trust  the  end  of  this  "Jornada,"  as  it  is  called, 
and  which  means  the  "region  of  death,"  is  nearly  reach 
ed,  for  a  march' of  12  miles  brought  us  to  a  village,  where 
we  halted  to  take  in  provisions  bought  by  our  Quarter 


46 

Master.  Proceeding  two  miles  further  we  came  up  to 
Major  Gilpin,  whom  we  found  encamped  on  a  large 
sandy  plain.  We  had  to  go  2  or  3  miles  for  wood.  Our 
flour  was  nearly  gone,  and  we  had  a  little  beef  soup  and 
rice  for  supper  at  night.  The  boys  being  still  hungry, 
-we  went  to  the  village  and  procured  some  dried  fruit 
and  pumpkins,  wrhich  we  sliced  up  and  stewed  in  our 
camp  kettles.  Of  this  fare  we  partook  heartily,  and  laid 
down  to  sleep  in  the  sand. 

2Ath. — The  first  blast  of  the  bugle  this  morning  made 
us  hurry  into  line.  Some  of  the  men  being  rather  tardy, 
were  too  late,  and  they  were  told  by  the  officer  who  in 
spected  us,  that  any  man  who  did  not  come  into  rank 
at  the  sound  of  the  bugle,  would  be  made  to  stand  guard 
three  days.  We  broke  ranks  and  ate  our  breakfast, 
which  consisted  of  a  small  piece  of  bread,  made  up  with 
pumpkin.  The  weather  is  now  quite  pleasant,  and  the 
country,  hitherto  so  uniformly  desolate,  begins  to  im 
prove  in  appearance. 


BATTLE  OF  BRACITO. 

26th. — In  the  union  of  our  forces  we  are  one  thousand 
strong.  Moved  as  early  as  usual  from  the  position  we 
have  occupied  the  last  three  days,  and  after  marching  12 
miles,  we  came  to  Bracito,  and  encamped  at  10  o'clock. 
We  stripped  our  horses  as  usual,  and  picketed  them  out ; 
went  out  to  hunt  wood  to  cook  our  dinners.  Some  of 
the  men  had  gone  at  least  a  mile  from  camp  when  the 
alarm  was  given,  "to  arms  !  to  arms  /"  Looking  in  the 
direction  pointed  out  we  saw  a  cloud  of  dust,  as  if  the 
whole  of  Mexico  was  coming  down  upon  us.  Unwilling 
to  throw  away  our  wood,  we  ran  with  our  turns  on  our 
shoulders,  when  we  heard  an  officer  hallooing — "Throw 
away  your  wood  and  bring  your  horses  into  camp." 
We  obeyed  the  order  as  quickly  as  possible.  We  found 
our  Orderly  at  his  post,  directing  the  men  to  load 
their  guns  and  get  into  line.  Every  man  was  at  his 


47 

proper  place  in  a  few  minutes.  By  this  time  the  Mexi 
can  army  was  in  sight,  and  had  formed  in  battle  array  at 
a  distance  of  a  mile  from  us.  Presently  an  officer  came 
out  of  their  ranks,  handsomely  mounted  and  bearing  a 
black  flag.  Col.  Mitchell,  accompanied  with  the  inter 
preter,  rode  up  to  meet  him  on  half  way  ground  to  inquire 
his  business.  He  told  them  he  had  come  to  demand 
the  surrender  of  our  entire  force,  by  submitting,  he  said, 
our  lives  would  be  spared — if  we  did  not,  every 
man  would  be  put  to  death.  Our  interpreter  cut  short 
his  harangue  by  telling  him  to  "go  to  h —  and 
bring  on  his  forces."  In  the  meantime  our  company 
(the  Chihuahua  Rangers)  received  orders  from  head  quar 
ters  to  right  about  face,  and  march  from  the  right,  where 
we  were  somewhat  protected  by  brush,  weeds  and 
gopher  hills,  to  the  extreme  left,  in^open  ground  to  with 
stand  the  charge  of  the  Mexican  cavalry  ;  so  off  we 
marched  in  double  quick  time  to  our  position  on  the  left. 
Our  Captain  here  told  us  to  reserve  our  fire  till  the 
enemy  was  in  fair  rifle  distance,  and  added  that  he  hoped 
no  man  in  his  command  would  act  the  coward,  but  all 
would  do  their  duty  as  volunteers  and  American  soldiers. 
He  had  scarcely  done  speaking,  when  the  enemy  com 
menced  firing  at  us,  from  three  to  four  hundred  yards 
distant.  They  advanced  closer,  and  continued  to  ad 
vance,  pouring  in  volley  after  volley,  till  the  sound  of 
bullets  over  our  heads  reminded  me  of  a  hail  storm. — 
We  waited  impatiently  for  the  word  of  command.  It 
was  at  length  given,  "fire."  One  loud  peal  of  thunder 
was  heard  from  our  Missouri  rifles.  Consternation  and 
dismay  was  the  result,  for,  thrown  into  confusion,  the 
Mexicans  commenced  obliquing  to  our  left.  Another 
volley,  well  aimed,  caused  them  to  retreat  towards  our 
wagons.  Here  they  were  met  by  a  round  from  the 
wagon  company.  In  the  meantime  Capt.  Reid,  at  the 
head  of  eighteen  men,  well  mounted,  pushed  after  them, 
chasing  them  to  the  mountains.  All  their  provisions, 
guns,  sabres,  camp  furniture,  &c.,  besides  one  10  pound 
howitzer,  fell  into  our  hands.  The  Mexican  loss  was 
estimated  at  thirty  or  forty  killed  and  wounded,  while  we 


48 

had  but  two  slightly  wounded.  The  Mexicans  left  their 
dead  on  the  field. 

26th. — With  fifteen  prisoners  and  a  few  wounded  Mex 
icans,  we  resumed  our  march,  the  main  army  being  flanked 
on  both  sides,  and  came  on  16  miles  and  encamped  in 
a  desolate  place  filled  with  thorn  bushes.  Here  we  pre 
pared  our  supper,  and  were  about  to  sit  down,  when  the 
report  of  a  gun  from  the  picket  guard,  caused  us  to  ex 
tinguish  the  fires,  and  form  in  line  as  quickly  as  possible. 
Presently  our  Lieutenant  rode  up  and  said  it  was  a  false 
alarm.  We  were  ordered  to  break  ranks  and  get  our 
supper.  Again  we  commenced  that  unfortunate  meal, 
when  the  report  of  a  second  gun,  so  loud  as  to  be  heard 
by  every  one,  again  made  us  put  the  fires  down.  There 
was  a  tremendous  clattering  of  arms,  for  all  formed  in 
line  in  a  few  seconds.  At  this  moment  Lieut.  Cribbons 
rode  up  and  said  that  in  visiting  one  of  the  outer  pickets, 
he  was  requested  to  give  the  countersign  by  the  guard, 
whose  gun  was  cocked,  and  he  accidentally  let  the  ham 
mer  down  too  heavily,  causing  it  to  explode,  the  load 
passing  close  to  the  Lieutenant's  face.  After  hearing  this 
statement,  we  again  broke  ranks  to  resume  our  supper. 
I  stood  sentinel,  to  guard  the  wagons  and  piece  of  artil 
lery  taken  from  the  enemy,  till  12  o'clock,  then  went  to 
bed — was  awakened  again  at  3,  and  stood  till  6  o'clock. 

Sunday,  21th. — Col.  Doniphan  wishing  an  early  start, 
the  roll  was  called  at  light  and  we  moved  on  in  the  same 
order  as  yesterday,  with  front  and  rear  guard.  We  had 
scarcely  travelled  six  miles,  when  at  a  distance  over  the 
river  was  seen  a  dust,  as  if  a  body  of  horsemen  were 
meeting  us.  We  were  told  to  keep  cool  and  obey  orders. 
Continuing  our  course  we  met  several  Mexicans  bearing 
a  white  flag.  Their  commander  coming  up,  presented 
Colonels  Doniphan  and  Mitchell  his  sabre.  They  then 
drank  \vine  and  other  liquors  together,  and  we  resumed 
our  march,  crossed  the  Rio  Grande,  and  encamped  in  the 
town  of  El  Paso  del  Norte  about  nightfall.  This  is  the 
noted  pass  between  Old  and  New  Mexico.  The  town 
contains  about  seven  or  eight  thousand  inhabitants,  and 
is  built  along  the  margin  of  the  river,  several  miles  in  length. 


The  environs  are  cultivated  to  some  extent,  and  the  usual 
varieties  of  fruit  grow  here  in  abundance.  The  river  is 
compressed  in  many  places  to  a  very  small  compass,  by 
the  high  and  precipitous  mountains,  through  which  it 
winds  its  way. 

28th, — Established  our  quarters  a  mile  from  the  city, 
where  there  is  a  large  coral  or  enclosure,  in  which  to 
keep  our  horses.  Throughout  the  day  a  variety  of  fruit 
was  brought  to  camp  by  the  natives,  and  readily  bought 
up  by  the  soldiers.  The  wind  was  high,  and  we  were 
nearly  blinded  by  clouds  of  dust,  which  being  mixed 
with  isinglass  is  very  hurtful  to  the  eyes. 

29th. — To-day  Col.  Doniphan,  while  searching  the 
town,  found  two  pieces  of  cannon,  and  after  breaking 
several  locks,  a  good  deal  of  ammunition  was  discovered. 
We  all  paraded  and  were  carried  through  the  regular 
drill. 

January  1st,  1847. — The  last  two  days  being  quite 
cold,  with  high  winds,  we  kept  in  camp.  After  the 
usual  parade  to-day,  Lieutenant  Todd  went  to  town 
about  10  o'clock  in  company  with  several  of  our  men, 
but  they  returned  in  a  short  time  at  full  speed,  hallooing 
with  all  their  might  for  us  to  get  our  horses  quickly,  and 
saddle  up,  for  the  Mexicans  were  coming  on  us.  In  a 
little  while  we  were  ready  and  marched  over  the  river  to 
join  the  other  regiment,  and  prepared  for  battle.  When 
we  arrived  at  the  ground,  we  were  formed  by  Col.  Don 
iphan,  who  despatched  Col.  Mitchell  with  twelve  men  to 
reconnoitre  the  enemy,  who  were  reported  to  be  in  sight. 
In  the  course  of  an  hour,  they  returned  and  said  it  was  a 
false  alarm.  We  then  marched  to  the  public  square,  and 
informed  by  our  Captain  that  arrangements  were  made 
to  keep  us  in  town,  and  that  our  camp  equipage  must 
be  sent  for.  One  out  of  each  mess  was  directed  to  go  with 
the  wagons  for  that  purpose.  •  We  were  well  supplied 
with  fuel  at  night,  and  our  quarters  were  quite  com 
fortable. 

2nd. — Nothing  of  importance  transpired  to-day.  The 
roll  was  called,  and  we  paraded  twice,  morning  and 
evening. 

5 


60 

Sunday,  3rd. — The  usual  duties  being  over,  and  a 
high  wind  prevailing,  we  did  not  go  to  church.  Hear 
ing  that  a  sick  horse  was  in  the  coral  I  went  over  to  see, 
and  found  it  was  my  mare.  I  brought  her  out  to  have 
her  bled  and  physicked.  I  went  to  get  assistance, 
and  when  I  returned  with  a  friend  I  found  she  had 
escaped  ;  searched  the  town  three  hours  without  finding 
her. 

4th. — Renewed  my  efforts  to  recover  my  lost  horse  ; 
walked  till  three  o'clock,  when  I  found  her  in  the  centre 
of  a  lot  about  two  miles  from  town — dead.  I  hastened 
to  Col.  Mitchell  and  told  him  I  was  on  foot,  as  my  mare 
had  lost  breath  and  was  laid  up  to  dry.  He  advised  me 
to  look  about  and  ascertain  if  I  could  suit  myself.  If  I 
succeeded  I  was  to  call  on  him  again  in  the  morning. 

5th. — Our  Orderly  Sergeant  in  reading  over  the  names 
of  those  to  be  placed  on  mounted  guard,  cried  out  mine. 
Accordingly,  I  with  three  others  marched  down  to  the 
public  square,  where  we  paraded,  and  dinner,  or  rather 
supper,  being  over,  we  were  placed  as  sentinels  till  three 
o'clock  in  the  morning.  I  then  went  to  the  guard  fire, . 
spread  down  my  blanket  and  slept  till  day-light. 

6th. — To-day  we  were  allowed  two-third  rations  of 
coarse  Taos  flour,  some  coffee  without  sugar,  and  poor 
mutton.  We  sometimes  got  a  few  peaches  from  the  in 
habitants  in  exchange  for  tobacco,  buttons,  &c. 

1th. — Finding  our  flour  nearly  gone  I  went  out  and 
bought  a  baked  pumpkin  to  mix  with  it  ;  saw  much  fruit 
exhibited  for  sale,  but  had  no  money  to  buy  any.  Our 
scouting  party  which  had  been  sent  out  a  few  days  ago, 
returned  this  evening,  bringing  three  prisoners,  a  priest 
among  them.  They  were  captured  12  miles  down,  on 
their  way  to  Chihuahua,  with  papers  containing  informa 
tion  of  our  movements  to  the  Mexican  army  in  that  quar 
ter.  They  were  placed  under  strict  surveillance. 

Sunday ,  10th. — I  went  to  church  with  a  number  of 
others,  and  witnessed  all  the  ceremonies,  and  manoeuvres 
of  this  singular  people.  The  church  is  large,  and  the 
handsomest  and  best  built  house  in  the  place.  I  saw  the 
representation  of  Christ  in  the  sepulchre,  with  various 


51 

other  images  in  and  near  the  altar.  On  our  return  we 
found  multitudes  in  the  open  street  playing  cards — sorry 
to  say,  some  were  American  soldiers. 

13th. — Our  time  begins  to  hang  heavily.  The  ordi 
nary  duties  of  the  day  are  soon  accomplished,  and  no 
novelty  to  amuse  or  excite,  the  soldiers  become  restless 
and  are  ready  for  any  excess.  Our  living  consists  of 
poor  mutton,  the  miserable  Taos  flour  and  a  little  coffee. 
Some  complain  and  others  "hook"  what  they  can  to 
improve  their  fare. 

14^A. — I  was  taken  last  night  with  a  violent  headache 
and  pain  in  the  bowels.  My  diarrhoea  having  become 
much  worse  I  got  up  and  went  to  the  Surgeon,  who  gave 
me  15  grs.  calomel,  10  do.  jalap,  5  do.  rhubarb  and  2 
do.  tartar,  all  mixed  up  together  in  a  dose.  I  took  this 
monstrous  compound  and  sat  by  the  guard-fire  till  morn 
ing,  I  then  laid  on  my  blanket  and  sjept  till  3  o'clock  in 
the  evening.  Needing  some  refreshment,  I  tried  my 
mess,  but  they  had  nothing  I  could  relish ;  I  went  to 
Sergeant  Edwards  and  he  gave  me  a  lump  of  sugar  to 
sweeten  my  coffee.  I  tried  in  vain  to  borrow  a  picayune 
to  purchase  some  molasses.  At  length  I  applied  to  a 
messmate  who  had  come  to  me  a  few  days  after  my  horse 
had  died,  bringing  a  mule,  and  saying  if  I  would  consent 
to  let  him  draw  the  rations  of  my  horse  I  should  have  the 
use  of  this  mule.  Yesterday  I  understood  he  had  sent 
his  mule  away  to  graze,  and  was  selling  my  corn. 
When  I  presented  my  petition,  he  turned  his  back  as  a 
refusal,  and  went  down  among  the  gamblers  and  lost 
every  cent. 

loth. — Feeling  disordered  and  ill,  I  applied  early  to 
our  Surgeon,  who  gave  me  a  small  lump  of  sugar,  charg 
ing  me  to  take  particular  care  of  the  article,  as  it  was 
only  intended  for  the  sick.  He  felt  my  pulse  and  made 
me  swallow  a  large  dose  of  salts  and  tartar  ;  I  then  went 
to  my  blanket. 

16th. — I  awoke  this  morning  with  a  high  fever  and 
headache.  The  Surgeon  gave  me  a  large  pill,  and  I 
was  placed  in  the  hospital,  under  the  particular  care  of  a 
doctor,  whose  name  I  could  not  learn,  but  who  said  he 


52 

was  from  Philadelphia,  and  could  out-practice  any  man 
in  the  regiment.  Wishing  some  coffee,  he  very  politely 
took  a  pinch  of  sugar  between  his  thumb  and  finger 
to  sweeten  it  for  me,  talking  the  while  of  "his  superior 
skill,"  &c. 

llth. — Still  in  the  hospital,  but  feeling  better,  I  ap 
plied  to  the  Quarter  Master,  who  gave  me  four  pints  of 
American  flour  ;  I  baked  a  small  cake  to  eat  with  my 
coffee.  At  night  I  spread  my  blanket  in  the  tent,  and 
slept  with  my  mess. 

18th. — At  the  sound  of  the  reveille  I  arose  and  strolled 
over  the  graveyard,  where  the  remains  of  young  Leland 
were  interred  yesterday.  This  young  man  died  of  the 
fever  prevailing  among  the  troops,  and  his  grave  is  close 
to  the  wall,  fronting  an  old  church  in  ruins.  Piles  of 
bones  lay  around — in  the  centre  of  some  of  the  hills  were 
erected  wooden  crosses. 

21st. — Since  Tuesday  last  I  have  been  ill  in  the  hos 
pital,  with  high  fever  and  headache — bed  hard  and  un 
comfortable,  consequently  little  sleep  or  rest.  The  doc 
tor,  in  his  round,  asked  me  why  I  was  not  out  at  the 
roll-call  this  morning,  as  my  name  was  erased,  by  his 
direction,  from  the  sick  list.  He  said  there  was  nothing 
the  matter  with  me,  and  he  would  give  me  no  more  med 
icine.  He  charged  me  with  being  home-sick,  &c.  &c., 
with  many  other  tender  and  endearing  epithets.  Weak 
and  quite  unwell,  I  left  the  hospital  and  found  my  way 
to  Col.  Doniphan's  quarters,  I  consulted  Dr.  Morton,  who, 
with  expressions  of  sympathy,  gave  me  the  necessary 
restoratives.  I  had  symptoms  of  jaundice,  with  very 
sore  eyes. 

26th. — I  was  somewhat  recovered  from  my  illness, 
through  the  humane  treatment  of  Dr.  Morton,  but  I  still 
suffered  considerably  from  my  eyes.  I  felt  much  regret 
that  I  was  prevented  from  joining  Capt.  Hudson,  who 
took  our  company  on  a  scout,  and  will  be  gone  several 
days.  I  begin  to  feel  weary  of  our  detention  here, 
occasioned  by  the  non-arrival  of  Capt.  Weightman  with 
the  artillery  from  Santa  Fe.  Col.  Doniphan  is  hourly 
expecting  this  reinforcement. 


53 

21th. — Last  evening  a  fellow  was  caught  by  our  outer 
picket  guard,  who  could  give  no  satisfactory  account  of 
himself,  and  told  so  many  contradictory  tales,  that  our 
Colonel  sent  him  to  the  guard-house.  At  ten  o'clock 
our  company  returned  from  the  scouting  expedition ; 
they  went  down  to  the  fort,  25  miles  off,  and  found  it 
was  deserted.  They  think  it  very  likely  we  shall  have 
no  fighting  to  do  at  Chihuahua. 

29th. — While  on  guard  to-day  over  the  prisoners 
taken  at  the  battle  of  Bracito,  I  thought  I  would  write 
in  my  journal,  I  searched  my  belt  for  it  in  vain.  It  was 
gone  ! — taken  out  probably  by  some  mischievous  soldier 
in  the  tent.  In  this  book  I  had  faithfully  kept  an  account 
of  every  thing  interesting  to  myself  at  least,  since  the 
day  I  left  Carroll  County,  Missouri.  Having  another 
blank  book  I  commenced  writing  again,  but  felt  pro 
voked  at  my  loss. 

30th. — This  morning,  being  relieved  from  the  duty  of 
sentinel,  I  went  immediately  to  Capt.  Hudson  and  stated 
the  loss  of  my  journal.  He  asked  me  a  number  of  ques 
tions  in  relation  to  it,  and  appeared  pleased  at  so  unusual 
an  undertaking  in  a  private.  He  went  forward  and  told 
the  soldiers  that  Maryland's  book  must  be  restored  or 
every  man  in  his  command  should  be  searched. 

31st. — The  impatience  of  our  boys  for  the  arrival  of 
the  artillery  has  induced  several  to  go  out  to  meet  it. 
This  evening  some  of  them  returned,  and  said  it  was  not 
more  than  30  miles  off.  To-day  my  book  was  found  on 
the  floor  of  the  tent.  The  robber  was  no  doubt  alarmed 
by  the  Captain's  order,  and  dropped  it  in  the  most  con 
venient  place. 

February  1st. — We  paraded  early,  and  about  12 
o'clock  several  rounds  from  our  artillery-men,  just  across 
the  Rio  Grande,  announced  the  arrival  of  Capt.  Weight- 
man  from  Santa  Fe,  with  four  six  pounders  and  two 
twelve  pound  howitzers.  They  marched  in  town  in  right 
order ;  our  men  firing  the  salute  from  our  piece  of  captured 
cannon  just  as  they  reached  the  public  square.  This 
company  is  an  important  acquisition  to  our  small  force. 

3d. — Early    orders   were   received   that   Lieut.    Col: 
5* 


54 

Mitchell,  at  the  head  of  the  Chihuahua  Rangers,  would 
move  down  to  the  fort  to-day.  Every  thing  being  in 
readiness  we  came  on  in  double  file,  and  arrived  at  sunset 
at  a  pretty  little  village.  Our  provision  wagons  being  de 
layed  on  the  road,  every  thing  like  food  in  this  small  place 
was  had  in  requisition  by  the  orders  of  the  Colonel,  and  we 
made  our  supper  on  pies,  cheese,  bread,  &c. 

4th. — 'This  morning  we  were  told  to  saddle  up  and 
hasten  forward  to  overtake  the  traders,  who  had  dis 
obeyed  orders  in  preceding  us  ;  we  were  ordered  to  bring 
them  back.  In  obedience  to  the  order  we  started  and 
travelled  13  miles.  On  the  way  we  saw  several  Mexi 
cans,  who  endeavored  to  elude  our  observation.  Our 
first  and  second  Lieutenants  wishing  to  know  who  they 
were,  and  on  what  errand  bent,  gave  chase.  After  a  run 
of  two  miles  at  full  speed,  they  were  overtaken  and 
searched.  One  was  the  alcalde  from  the  town  where  we 
staid  last  night.  We  halted  late  in  the  evening  on  the 
road,  where  we  met  a  Mexican  fully  armed,  gun,  sabre, 
&c.  He  was  also  stopped  and  minutely  examined,  but  no 
papers  being  found  on  his  person,  he  was  suffered  to  pass. 

5th. — -Marched  on  several  miles,  overtook  and  encamp 
ed  with  the  traders,  who  had  formed  their  wagons  in  a 
pen  or  coral,  tried  to  refresh  ourselves  on  a  supper  of 
black  bread,  poor  beef,  and  sassafras  tea,  cooked  over  a 
fire  of  thorn  bushes.  The  traders  sell  the  bark  of  the 
sassafras  at  $1  per  pound.  A  small  cup  of  the  decoction 
cost  25  cents  to-night, 

6th. — The  ground  was  so  uneven  we  did  not  erect  our 
tents,  but  spread  our  blankets  and  went  to  bed  ;  the 
cold  prevented  any  thing  like  refreshing  sleep.  We 
arrived  late  at  our  former  encampment,  and  found  Col. 
Mitchell  had  returned  from  El  Paso,  whither  he  had  gone 
to  see  Col.  Doniphan,  He  brought  news,  which  was 
currently  reported  there,  viz.  that  Gen.  Taylor  had  been 
overpowered  at  San  Louis  Potosi  by  the  Mexicans,  and 
was  imprisoned,  with  4000  regulars.  Of  course  this 
was  a  Mexican  story,  told  no  doubt  for  effect — and  it 
had  its  effect  upon  our  boys,  for  it  made  us  feel  as  if  we 
could  fight  like  lions  against  the  treacherous  foe.  We 


55 

waited  at  this  place  for  Col.  Doniphan,  who  was  making 
every  preparation  for  our  dangerous  trip.  I  made  for 
my  own  use  to-day  a  pair  of  wooden  spurs. 

1th. — This  morning  after  roll-call  and  breakfast,  we 
fed  our  horses  and  mules,  and  tried  to  rest  and  amuse 
ourselves.  At  supper  I  made  some  pancakes,  without 
milk  or  eggs,  unfortunately  I  put  rather  too  much  salt 
in  my  batter.  Fifteen  men  were  sent  down  the  river 
on  a  scouting  expedition  to-night.  My  name  was  called 
to  be  on  guard,  so  I  gathered  up  my  blanket  and  went 
into  the  line  with  the  rest.  I  was  placed  in  first  relief, 
near  the  river.  I  walked  two  hours,  then  went  to  bed 
at  12  o'clock  by  the  guard-fire ;  I  was  awakened  by 
the  Corporal  at  three,  and  stood  till  morning. 

8th. — Prepared  my  clothes  by  washing  and  mending, 
for  our  departure.  Boiled  some  beans  and  beef  for  my 
mess.  The  weather  was  very  disagreeble,  and  we  all 
felt  weary  of  our  delay. 

9th. — While  busily  engaged  fixing  up  to-day,  Col. 
Doniphan  came  on  with  the  artillery  and  encamped 
near  us.  All  is  now  bustle  and  excitement,  as  it  is  said 
we  shall  start  in  the  morning. 

10th. — Col.  Doniphan  has  concluded  to  stay  here  to 
day  with  the  army,  as  it  is  very  cold  and  cloudy.  Our 
boys  are  making  desperate  efforts  to  amuse  themselves. 
Among  other  things,  our  sutler  is  here  with  his  estab 
lishment,  and  whiskey  is  selling  at  75  cents  per  pint. 
With  some  honorable  exceptions,  the  scene  among  offi 
cers  and  men  may  be  much  "better  imagined  than  de 
scribed." 

llth. — The  whole  of  Col.  Doniphan's  regiment,  in 
cluding  the  Chihuahua  Rangers,  started  this  morning 
for  the  South  to  join  Gen.  Wool.  We  marched  in  right 
order  12  miles,  and  encamped  on  the  bank  of  the  river. 

12th. — The  wagons  not  coming  in  last  night,  some 
uneasiness  was  expressed  by  our  Commander,  when, 
with  fifteen  others,  I  returned  to  where  we  encamped  the 
night  before,  and  found  the  train  just  about  to  move  on. 
We  passed  a  caravan,  who  told  us  they  had  lost  the  last 
night  250  mules  and  50  yoke  of  oxen,  driven  off  by  the 


56 

Indians.  We  came  to  our  camp  and  found  cooking  to 
be  the  order  of  the  day.  We  are  about  entering  another 
Jornada,  and  provisions  for  four  days  must  be  packed. 

13th. — Detained  here  to  have  all  in  complete  readiness. 
The  Indians  were  at  their  thievish  work  again.  Last 
night  they  drove  off  some  cattle  and  mules  belonging  to 
the  traders.  The  skill  and  daring  evinced  by  these  bands 
of  savages  exceed  belief.  They  follow  the  army,  and 
are  always  prowling  around  our  camp  at  night. 

Sunday ',  14th. — Although  on  mounted  guard  nearly  all 
night,  I  made  all  the  haste  1  could  to  eat  an  early  break 
fast  and  saddle  up.  I  was  among  the  first  in  the  ranks. 
Here  we  were  told  that  the  burial  of  two  soldiers,  who 
expired  last  night,  would  only  detain  us  a  few  minutes 
longer.  The  mournful  ceremony  ended,  we  started  at  8 
o'clock;  came  on  the  Jornada  five  miles,  and  halted  to 
feed  our  horses  and  mules.  I  was  in  the  rear  guard  be 
hind  the  prisoners  all  day — travelled  a  long  and  weari 
some  journey  through  the  sand  until  8  o'clock  at  night. 
I  ate  a  small  piece  of  bread  and  meat,  and  spread  my 
blanket  at  the  guard-fire,  where  I  slept  till  four.  I  was 
awakened  by  the  officer  of  the  watch  and  stood  till  six. 
I  was  at  last  relieved  by  the  sound  of  the  tattoo. 

15th. — 12  miles  further  on  we  stopped  to  eat  break 
fast,  which  was  a  cold  cut.  We  again  moved  on,  and 
came  20  miles  through  this  Jornada  and  encamped  late  in 
the  night.  No  water  was  as  yet  to  be  seen.  Our  Ser 
geant  measured  to  each  man  a  half  pint.  One  man  sold 
his  half  pint  for  50  cents. 

16th. — We  made  an  early  start,  and  after  marching  15 
miles,  came  to  some  puddles  of  dirty  water.  Our  horses 
and  mules  rushed  in  and  drank  all  they  could  get. 
Ascending  the  hill  before  us  a  spring  was  discovered,  but 
the  water  was  muddy  and  brackish.  At  night  had  a 
slight  shower  of  rain,  with  lightning  and  thunder. 

11th. — On  awaking,  the  first  thing  I  heard  was  that  a 
man  in  our  company  was  dead.  The  poor  fellow  had 
left  a  wife  and  family  in  Missouri  to  serve  his  country. 
He  was  taken  sick  at  El  Paso,  with  the  measles,  and  had 
come  thus  far  to  die.  We  followed  his  remains  to  the 


57 

grave,  where  our  Captain  stood  forth  and  made  an  im 
pressive  speech.  He  stated  that  "this  was  the  third  time 
he  had  been  called,  on  occasions  like  the  present,  to  per 
form  the  mournful  duty  to  men  in  his  command,  and  that 
it  was  wisdom  for  each  and  all  to  prepare  for  the  worst," 
&c.  The  usual  rounds  were  fired,  and  we  covered  poor 
Tolly  over  with  soap-weed,  and  filled  up  the  grave. 
After  trampling  the  dirt  and  leveling  the  ground,  we 
marched  off  in  right  order  to  this  spot,  where  we  shall 
rest  to-day 

18th. — Loaned  my  mule  to  a  soldier  who  had  lost  his 
horse,  to  enable  him  to  go  in  search.  I  was  rewarded 
for  this  favor,  by  being  compelled  to  stay  behind  my 
company  several  hours,  till  he  returned  with  his  horse. 
We  pursued  our  journey  two  miles,  and  overtook  the 
command  at  a  Hot  Spring,  which  was  discovered  on  the 
top  of  a  small  eminence.  It  boiled  up  very  curiously  in 
the  centre,  covering  the  surface  with  bubbles.  The  tem 
perature  about  100  degrees.  The  water  is  scarcely  fit  to 
drink,  having  a  very  disagreeable  taste,  nevertheless,  the 
men  filled  their  canteens,  saying  they  would  drink  it  when 
it  got  cold  enough.  The  country  still  presents  a  barren 
appearance,  the  soil  sterile  ;  the  surface  rocky  and  moun 
tainous.  We  marched  14  miles,  and  about  sunset,  en 
camped  close  to  a  small  stream,  which  supplied  a  few 
poor  villagers  with  water.  The  people  busied  them 
selves  in  preparing  for  us,  what  they  could,  viz.  a  little 
muskeet  brush  to  cook  with,  and  corn  for  our  cattle.  In 
crossing  this  Jornada,  the  teamsters  were  obliged  to 
throw  away  5000  pounds  flour,  and  leave  several  wagons 
behind — the  mules  being  unable  to  proceed. 

19th. — After  a  journey  of  such  length  over  uneven 
ground,  the  fatigue  of  the  army  induced  our  Commander 
to  remain  in  camp  to-day.  About  two  o'clock  the  wind 
began  to  rise,  and  increased  in  violence  till  the  tents 
were  leveled  to  the  ground.  We  tried  to  cook  by 
digging  pits  in  which  to  place  the  fire.  The  sand  blow 
ing  in  clouds,  covered  our  food  ;  making  it  gritty  and  un 
pleasant  to  eat.  As  night  carne  on,  a  heavy  storm  of 
wind  stripped  our  wagons  of  their  covers.  Quite  unshel- 


58 

tered,  we  had  to  do  the  best  we  could,  and  that  was  bad 
enough.  We  laid  down,  as  we  had  often  done  before, 
on  our  blankets.  We  slept  uncomfortably  on  hillocks 
and  tufts  of  grass. 

2Qth. — The  wind  having  abated,  we  were  all  in  line 
at  an  early  hour — came  nine  miles  through  this  ranch,  to 
the  mouth  of  another  Jornada.  Here  the  same  scene  of 
desolation  is  presented.  No  cultivation  to  be  seen  any 
where,  nor  scarcely  any  natural  vegetable  production  ex 
cept  the  thorn  and  muskeet  brush.  The  days  are  warm, 
and  the  nights  very  cold,  in  this  region. 

21st. — Marched  ten  miles  out  to  the  Hot  Springs, 
which  are  situated  in  a  ranch,  and  encamped.  The 
army  will  here  halt  a  day  or  two.  The  same  arrange 
ments  are  to  be  made  as  before.  While  cooking  my 
meat  and  bread,  I  was  informed  by  the  Orderly,  that  with 
18  others,  I  was  appointed  to  go  before  the  command  sev 
eral  miles.  Hastily  despatching  the  meal,  we  mounted 
and  rode  out  a  long  distance,  where  we  had  to  stand  all 
night.  We  made  a  small  fire  of  brush  weed  on  the 
road  side. 

22d. — I  was  relieved  from  duty  early  this  morning  by 
the  next  detail.  Feeling  much  disordered  from  loss  of 
rest  and  fatigue.  I  was  greatly  obliged  to  a  messmate 
who  very  thoughtfully  brought  me  some  water  and  a 
piece  of  bread  for  my  breakfast.  The  army  appearing — 
we  went  into  line  by  sections  of  four,  and  marched  17 
miles  where  we  encamped  at  a  place  where  the  men  had 
water ;  but  none  could  be  spared  to  the  poor  horses  and 
mules.  After  eating  some  bread,  we  laid  down  on  the 
ground  and  went  to  sleep. 

23d. — Without  waiting  for  refreshment  of  any  kind, 
we  came  on  to-day  eight  miles  to  a  pond,  where  we 
watered  our  horses  and  mules — we  stopped  for  the  poor 
animals  to  graze  awhile  and  then  proceeded  three  miles, 
when  we  halted  for  the  night  at  a  stream  of  water.  Sev 
eral  antelopes  were  killed  to-day.  After  the  tents  were 
fixed  up,  we  boiled  some  of  the  flesh,  which  made  fine 
eating  ;  the  repast  was  seasoned  with  a  good  appetite  ; 
a  fast  of  nearly  forty-eight  hours,  had  made  us  hungry 
enough. 


59 

In  conversation  with  my  Captain — I  expressed 
a  wish  to  go  up  a  neighboring  mountain,  as  I  under 
stood  a  large  Tagoon  could  be  seen  from  its  summit. 
He  told  me  to  go  and  make  all  the  observations  I  could. 
Having  no  time  to  lose,  I  commenced  its  ascent,  by 
climbing  over  large  rocks,  in  which  were  formed  several 
immense  caves — some  of  them  I  thought  were  well  fitted 
to  be  the  resort  of  robbers.  At  length  I  found  myself  on 
the  top,  and  set  down  to  write.  At  the  distance  of  three 
miles  a  lake  of  considerable  extent  is  seen,  reposing  in 
the  bosom  of  a  prairie,  bounded  by  the  horizon.  To  the 
left  a  continuous  range  of  mountains  loom  up,  whose  bare 
and  rugged  tops  present  to  the  mind  the  idea  of  coldness 
and  desolation.  The  whole  face  of  the  country  is  desti 
tute  of  wood,  and  verdure,  except  a  species  of  brush  or 
thorn  bushes.  Looking  towards  our  camp,  I  beheld  a 
long  line  of  wagons  stretching  along  the  road  as  far  as 
the  sight  could  reach.  They  were  all  in  motion,  and  the 
sight  made  me  hasten  down  the  mountain  at  a  brisk  pace. 
It  was  our  army  preparing  for  a  start  and  I  did  not  wish 
to  be  left  "solitary  and  alone,"  in  that  rocky  region.  In 
a  few  minutes  we  took  up  the  line  of  march — came  12 
miles  and  encamped  at  sunset.  We  saw  Mexican  spies 
at  a  distance.  The  picket  guard  came  in  and  reported, 
that  10,000  Mexicans  were  at  a  lake  some  miles  off, 
ready  to  give  us  battle 

25th. — The  sound  of  the  reveille  started  every  man  to 
his  post  by  light.  We  moved  on  eight  miles  to  the  lake, 
and  watered  our  horses  and  mules.  We  saw  nothing  of 
the  Mexicans.  The  country  begins  to  improve  as  we 
leave  the  Jornada,  especially  on  the  margin  of  these  lakes 
or  ponds,  the  water  of  which  is  brackish.  Here  prairie 
grass  grows  with  some  luxuriance.  Kindling  a  fire,  the 
soldiers  commenced  baking  bread,  made  from  the 
wretched  native  flour,  now  our  only  fare.  A  high  wind 
prevailing — sparks  were  carried  out,  which  set  the  dry 
brush  and  weeds  in  aflame.  The  Chihuahua  Rangers  had 
orders  to  subdue  the  fire,  and  we  commenced  threshing 
it  out  with  our  blankers,  but  the  wind  increasing  we 
found  it  useless  labor.  The  flames  continued  to  increase 


60 

in  spite  of  us.  The  whole  command  was  put  in  action 
with  their  horses,  beating  a  track,  to  stop  the  progress 
of  the  fire.  Unfortunately  for  us,  the  fire  caught  the 
grass  on  the  other  side  of  the  track,  and  the  wind 
blowing  tremendously,  the  fire  was  carried  in  almost 
every  direction.  We  then  encamped  on  the  burnt 
ground,  off  of  which  the  grass  had  been  burnt,  and  pick 
eting  our  horses  on  the  left  of  the  road  in  the  prairie,  we 
laid  down  to  rest.  In  a  few  hours  we  were  awakened 
to  bring  our  horses  in,  for  the  whole  prairie  was  on  fire. 
Coming  out  of  my  tent,  a  sight  appeared  of  such  mag 
nificence  as  had  never  before  met  my  eyes.  It  was  an 
opposite  mountain  on  fire,  and  the  whole  prairie,  as  far  as 
the  eye  could  reach,  in  flames.  A  strange  glare  tinged 
the  clouds,  and  all  surrounding  objects,  and  presented  a 
scene  which  was  fearfully  grand.  It  consumed  nearly  all 
the  grass  in  the  country  15  miles  towards  Chihuahua. 

26th. — We  continued  winding  through  the  mountain 
passes  and  plains  16  miles.  Our  advance  found  a  coral 
to-day,  in  which  were  50  sheep  and  15  cattle,  driven  in 
from  the  surrounding  neighborhood.  They  were  im 
mediately  butchered  for  the  command,  the  soldiers  being 
nearly  exhausted  for  want  of  food.  This  was  a  dreadful 
day  for  our  march.  The  wind  was  so  high  that  we  could 
scarcely  see  a  hundred  yards  ahead. 

21th. — The  artillery  and  wagons  were  kept  in  front 
all  day,  the  whole  army  being  formed  in  two  lines  in  the 
rear.  We  marched  in  right  order  8  miles,  and  encamped 
on  the  margin  of  a  lake.  Here  wre  shall  halt  till  to-mor 
row.  Scouts  were  sent  out  in  every  direction.  I  was 
busily  engaged  all  the  evening  writing  for  our  boys,  who 
believe  themselves  to  be  on  the  eve  of  some  engagement 
with  the  enemy.  Saw  several  of  our  men  come  in,  leading 
a  horse — soon  learned  that  spiesbeing  seen  by  ouradvance, 
Capt.  Skillman  of  the  traders'  company,  and  Capt.  Par 
sons  of  the  E  company  from  Cole  County,  with  others 
gave  chase  and  overtook  one.  The  fellow  finding  he  was 
likely  to  become  a  prisoner,  leaped  off,  and  fled  up  the 
mountain  leaving  his  horse  and  all  his  rigging  behind. 
He  was  elegantly  mounted.  Col.  Mitchell  has  just  in 
formed  us  that  a  battle  will  be  fought  to-morrow. 


61 


BATTLE  OF  SACRAMENTO. 

Sunday,  28th. — Atsunrise  this  morning,  we  took  up  our 
line  of  march,  having  learned  from  our  spies  that  the 
enemy  in  great  numbers,  had  fortified  the  pass  of  the 
river  Sacramento,  about  15  miles  off.  Our  train  consist 
ing  of  315  traders'  wagons,  and  our  Commissary  and 
company  wagons,  in  all  about  400,  were  formed  into  four 
columns,  so  as  to  shorten  our  lines.  The  whole  com 
mand  marched  in  right  order  between  the  columns,  thus 
concealing  our  force  from  the  enemy.  When  we  arrived 
within  three  miles  of  their  entrenchments,  Col.  Doniphan 
made  a  reconnoisane  of  their  position,  and  examined  the 
arrangement  of  their  forces.  This  was  easily  done,  as  our 
road  led  through  an  open  prairie  valley  between  the  high 
mountains.  The  pass  of  the  Sacramento  is  formed  by  a 
point  of  the  mountains  on  our  right,  their  left  extending 
into  the  valley,  so  as  to  narrow  the  valley  about  one  and 
a  half  miles.  On  our  left  was  a  deep,  dry  channel  of  a 
creek,  and  between  these  points,  the  plain  rises  abruptly 
about  50  or  60  feet.  The  road  passes  down  the  centre 
of  the  valley,  and  in  the  distance  we  had  a  full  view  of 
6 


62 

the  Mexican  army.      On  the  point  of  the  mountain,  they 
had  a  battery  of  four  guns,  so  elevated  as   to   sweep  the 
plain.     On  the  left,  there  was  another  battery  command 
ing  the  road,  with  six  pounders   and    rampart  pieces, 
mounted  on  carriages.     Their  cavalry  was  drawn  up  in 
front   of  their  redoubts,  in   the   interval    of   four  deep. 
Whenwehad  arrivednear  their  entrenchments,  ourcolumns 
suddenly  diverged  to  the  right,  so  as  to  gain  the  eleva 
tion,  which  the  enemy  endeavored  to  prevent  by  moving 
forward  with  four  pieces  of  cannon  and  1000  cavalry. 
But  our  movements  were  so  rapid,  that  we  not  only  gained 
the  eminence,  but  were  formed  in  order  for  their  recep 
tion.     Our  company  (Capt.  Hudson's)  now  dismounted, 
and  every  eighth  man  was  detailed,  to  hold  horses  and 
mules.    It  fell  to  my  lot  to  hold  eight  mules.     The  action 
now  commenced  by  a  brisk  fire  from  our  cannons,  doing 
considerable  execution  at  the  distance  of  twelve  hundred 
yards,  killing  fifteen  of  the  enemy,  and  disabling  one    of 
their  guns.     Our  fire  was  briskly  returned  from  14  pieces 
of  artillery,   sending  ragged  balls,  and  heavy  copper  ore. 
But  being  badly  aimed  they  struck  the   ground   about 
forty  or  fifty  yards  before  us,  and  rebounding  passed  over 
our  heads  without  harm,  except  slightly  wounding  two 
men,  and  killing  several  horses  and  mules  in  the  rear. 
Our  guns  were  so  well  aimed  as  to  compel  the  enemy  to 
fall  behind  the  breastworks.     We   resumed  our  march 
in  our  former  order,   diverging   as    much  as  possible  to 
the  right,  to  avoid  a  heavy  battery,  and  their  strongest 
redoubts,  which  were  on  our  left,  near  the  common  road. 
After  marching  as  far  as  we  thought  it  prudent,  without 
coming  in  range  of  their  heavy  battery,  Capt.  Weightman 
of  the  artillery,  was  ordered  to  charge  it  with  two  12  Ib. 
howitzers,  to  be  supported  by  the   cavalry,   under  Cap 
tains  Reid,  Parsons  and  Hudson.      We  then  remounted 
and  charged  the  battery  from  right  to  left,   with  a  brisk 
and  deadly  fire  from  our  rifles.       We  then  advanced  to 
the  very  brink  of  their  redoubts,  and  drove  them  out  with 
our  sabres.     The  enemy  now  fell  back  on  their  centre 
battery,  where  they  made  a  desperate  rally,   and  gave  us 
a  shower  of  balls  and  copper  ore,  which  whizzed  over 


63 

our  heads  without  doing  us  any  injury  except  wounding 
several  men  and  killing  a  few  mules  and  horses.  Major 
Clarke  was  ordered  to  commence  a  heavy  fire  upon  this 
battery,  which  being  well  directed,  together  with  the 
rapid  advance  of  our  columns,  put  them  to  flight  over  the 
mountains  in  utter  confusion,  leaving  all  their  cannons, 
and  the  ground  strewed  with  their  dead  and  wounded. 
Thus  ended  the  battle  of  Sacramento,  which  commenced 
about  three  o'clock,  and  ended  about  sun-set.  The  en 
emy  numbered  4220  rank  and  file,  and  lost  300  killed 
500  wounded,  beside  40  prisoners.  The  American  force 
consisted  of  924  effective  men,  1  killed,  11  wounded. 
Our  success  is  to  be  attributed  entirely  to  the  superior 
skill  of  our  commander.  Had  he  not  taken  advantage  of 
position,  in  keeping  out  of  range  of  redoubts  and  batteries, 
we  should  all  have  shared  a  common  fate,  as  the  black 
piratical  flag  was  captured,  together  with  a  wagon  load 
of  that  formidable  weapon,  the  lariat,  which  was  intended- 
to  tie  us  all  to  our  saddles  in  case  of  a  defeat.  The  Mex 
icans  lost  ten  pieces  of  artillery,  varying  from  five  to  ten 
Ibs.  and  seven  one  Ib.  culverines.  One  of  the  cannon  is 
very  valuable,  being  composed  of  silver  and  brass  melted 
together.  They  also  lost  all  their  baggage,  ammunition, 
&c.,  and  provisions  enough  to  last  us  three  months  were 
found  in  their  wagons,  together  with  $4000  in  specie.  It 
was  gratifying  to  see  the  soldiers  shaking  hands  with 
their  officers  after  the  engagement  and  tendering  their 
congratulations  to  their  commander  for  his  skill  and 
bravery  displayed  on  this  memorable  occasion.  The 
Surgeons  are  now  busily  engaged  in  administering  relief 
to  the  wounded  Mexicans,  and  it  is  a  sight  to  see  the 
pile  of  legs  and  arms  that  have  been  amputated.  The 
cries  and  groans  of  the  poor  fellows,  are  distressing  in 
the  extreme.  It  is  a  fact,  worthy  of  note,  that  the  at 
mosphere  here  in  this  mountainous  region  is  so  perfectly 
pure  and  clear  that  a  cannon  shot  can  be  seen  coming, 
when  it  is  a  considerable  distance  off,  by  leaving  a  blue 
streak  in  the  air.  Many  a  soldier  saved  his  life  in  the 
battle  by  dodging  the  balls  as  they  came  forward.  When 
a. flash  would  be  seen  from  the  enemy's  battery,  you 


64 

could  hear  the  soldiers  cry  out — "watch  the  ball  boys  ! 
— here  comes  a  ball  boys,"  and  they  invariably  avoided 
them,  or  the  slaughter  must  have  been  very  great.  I 
saw  a  ball  coming  in  the  direction  where  I  was,  when 
immediately  falling  off  my  mule,  it  passed  just  over  my 
saddle  without  injury.  Our  rapid  movements  seemed  to 
astonish  the  enemy.  Our  four  pieces  of  flying  artillery, 
discharging  five  times  in  a  minute,  volleys  of  grape  and 
canister,  with  chain  shots,  would  rake  the  enemy's 
redoubts  and  cut  roads  through  their  lines,  while  our  12  Ib. 
howitzers  throwing  a  constant  shower  of  bombs  into  the 
middle  of  their  entrenchments,  and  the  unerring  aim  of 
our  Mississippi  rifles,  acting  in  concert ;  cast  terror  and 
dismay  among  the  cowardly  and  unprincipled  foe.  Our 
men  acted  nobly,  and  in  the  hand  to  hand  fight  in  the 
redoubts  they  fought  to  desperation.  Lieutenant  Sprawl, 
our  2d  Lieutenant,  a  man  over  six  feet  high  with  bared 
arms,  and  without  his  hat,  his  longhair  and  beard  stream 
ing  in  the  wind,  with  sword  in  hand,  was  charging  the 
enemy  at  every  point,  when  a  ball  struck  his  splendid 
charger,  and  he  fell.  But  seizing  his  carbine  he  kept  up 
with  us  on  foot.  Another  of  our  men,  being  unhorsed, 
and  fighting  near  me,  was  attacked  by  a  Mexican  who 
was  about  to  lance  him,  and  the  poor  fellow^  gun  being 
discharged,  he  picked  up  a  rock,  and  throwing  it,  struck 
his  enemy  on  the  head,  which  felled  him  to  the  earth, 
when  he  knocked  his  brains  out  with  the  butt  of  his  gun. 
These  were  but  common  occurrences  in  that  hard  con 
tested  fight,  where  we  had  to  contend  with  nearly  five 
to  one. 

March  1st. — After  spending  a  comfortable  night, 
feasting  on  the  good  things  of  our  enemy,  and  making 
our  prisoners  bury  the  dead,  we  started  with  the  remains 
of  Major  Owings,  and  after  marching  four  miles  encamp 
ed.  My  mule  having  received  a  wound  in  the  loins  yes 
terday,  cannot  be  found  this  morning,  so  I  borrowed  one 
of  the  Commissary. 

2d. — Placed  on  mounted  guard  to  precede  the  army, 
whose  entrance  in  the  city  will  take  place  to-day.  Came 
ten  miles ;  saw  the  spire  of  the  Cathedral  towering  in 


65 

the  distance,  with  peculiar  feelings  of  delight.  A 
merrier  group  could  scarcely  be  pictured  than  our  worthy 
Col.  Mitchell  and  his  escort.  We  entered  the  beautiful 
city  of  Chihuahua  about  12  o'clock,  and  proceeded  im 
mediately  to  the  plaza  or  public  square.  The  inhabitants 
are  polite,  and  manifest  in  various  ways  the  utmost  com 
plaisance,  and  regard  to  our  soldiery.  Of  course  we  see 
the  fairest  specimens  of  the  Mexican  character  here,  and 
afford  us  evidences  of  superior  intelligence,  comfort  and 
industry.  While  the  soldiers  were  scattered  in  various 
directions,  seeking  refreshments,  I  took  a  walk  alone,  and 
seated  myself  in  a  quiet  nook,  fronting  the  Cathedral. 
It  is  an  imposing  structure  of  white  marble.  It  was 
about  fifty  years  in  building — the  production  of  a  gold 
mine,  and  cost  three  million  dollars.  I  felt  too  much 
fatigued  to  write  a  long  description  of  even  a  beautiful 
church,  although,  had  it  been  otherwise,  such  employ 
ment  would  have  been  pleasant  to  me.  The  tones  of 
the  bell  are  grand.  It  strikes  the  hour,  and  can  be 
heard  at  a  great  distance.  At  sun-down  Col.  Doniphan 
arrived  in  town  with  the  rest  of  the  command,  all  in  fine 
order.  The  band  was  playing  Washington's  March — 
just  as  we  reached  the  public  square,  the  tune  was 
changed  to  Yankee  Doodle,  when  there  was  a  general 
huzza.  We  then  marched  through  the  town  and  took 
up  our  quarters  on  the  outskirts.  I  was  placed  on  pick 
et  guard  and  had  to  be  up  all  night — first  to  watch  the 
prisoners,  and  then  to  walk  my  post  three  hours. 

3d. — All  is  now  tranquil.  The  funeral  of  Major 
Owings  took  place  to-day.  Every  thing  was  conducted 
with  the  utmost  decency  and  order. 

4£A. — This  morning  I  sallied  forth  for  a  ramble.  I 
went  through  the  thickest  parts  of  the  city,  which  I  should 
judge  contained  about  40,000  inhabitants.  The  streets 
cross  at  right  angles,  and  the  houses  are  mostly  built  of 
the  usual  sun-dried  brick,  in  Mexican  style,  with  flat 
roofs,  and  close  barred  windows,  as  if  intended  for  de 
fence  against  street  assaults,  or  rival  factions.  I  was, 
afterwards,  introduced  to  s,ome  senoras,  and  drank  some 
6? 


66 

coffee  with  them — they  using  the  ardiente,  instead  of 
cream  in  theirs. 

5th. — Passing  near  the  public  square  I  encountered 
Col.  Mitchell,  with  several  officers  on  horseback,  before 
a*  handsome  building.  The  Colonel  was  earnestly  en 
gaged  in  conversation  with  a  man,  who,  it  appeared 
was  an  Englishman.  I  soon  learned  that  our  Colonel 
wished  to  search  the  building,  but  the  English  gentle 
man  said  he  should  not.  I  was  called  on,  with  several 
others  who  were  standing  near  to  form  ranks,  and  go  at 
once  and  arm  ourselves.  We  ran  to  our  quarters,  and 
soon  returned  well  equipped.  I  had  not  been  in  the 
line  more  than  a  minute,  when  I  saw  my  entire  company, 
the  Chihuahua  Rangers,  come  up.  I,  of  course,  left  my 
position  and  with  them  paraded  before  the  house.  The 
Englishman  being  still  very  stubborn  and  refusing  to 
give  up  the  keys,  the  Colonel  ordered  two  pieces  of 
artillery  to  be  brought  down  immediately  and  placed  be 
fore  the  door.  Turning  to  look  for  the  man,  I  found  he 
had  escaped  to  the  top  of  a  house,  not  far  off,  where  he 
stationed  himself  to  watch  our  movements.  He  no 
sooner  espied  the  cannon,  than  he  ran  down  in  great  haste, 
begging  for  a  few  minutes  to  open  the  door,  saying 
"somebody  might  be  killed,"  &c.  We  then  entered 
peaceably.  Magoffin,  the  trader,  whom  the  authori 
ties  of  the  city  had  condemned  to  death  as  a  traitor, 
cannot  be  found.  On  inquiry,  we  learned  that  he  had 
been  sent  to  Durango.  But  several  are  of  opinion,  that 
he  has  been  killed. 

6th. — I  went  to  the  Secretary's  office  and  wrote  letters 
to  my  sisters  in  Maryland. 

Wth. — For  several  days  past  we  have  been  re 
lieved  from  all  extra  duty,  only  answering  to  the  roll-call 
night  and  morning.  I  have  been  busily  engaged  to-day 
writing  letters  for  different  persons. 

11th. — During  the  past  week  I  have  had  no  time  to 
write  in  my  journal.  I  have  been  busy  in  writing  letters  for 
others,  and  assisting  in  writing  out  requisitions,  &c.  I 
received  to-night  the  first  number  of  the  "Anglo  Saxon," 
a  paper  printed  by  our  boys,  and  the  first  American  news- 


67 

paper  ever  published  in  Chihuahua.  On  Wednesday 
the  15th,  the  express  started  from  here  for  the  United 
States.  Many  weary  months  have  passed,  and  we  have 
heard  no  tidings  from  home  and  friends.  Truly  a  sol 
dier's  lot  is  a  hard  one. 

19th. — I  had  a  chill  last  night,  which  ended  in  a  fever. 
I  felt  thankful  that  I  was  favored  with  every  attention 
from  Lieut.  Sprawl,  who  is  as  kind  and  generous  as  he 
is  brave.  A  few  hours  sleep  recovered  me  in  some  de 
gree  from  the  stupidity  in  which  the  fever  left  me,  and  I 
arose  from  the  stone  floor  refreshed.  I  went  to  church, 
which  was  opened  for  Mass,  but  soon  returned  with  a 
headache,  longing  for  the  simple  and  sweet  worship  of 
my  own  church  at  home.  An  express  consisting  of 
twelve  men  was  sent  on  to  General  Taylor  to-day. 

20th. — I  took  a  stroll  through  the  town — went  down 
to  the  American  Hotel  to  learn  what  news  was  stirring. 
Nothing  is  heard  from  the  South. 

23d. — We  have  at  this  time  all  that  is  necessary  for 
our  comfort,  and  nothing  to  do  but  attend  to  our  slight 
duties,  and  the  care  of  our  mules  and  horses.  A  strict 
guard  is  kept.  The  captured  cannon  is  in  charge  of  the 
non-commissioned  officers,  and  our  company  has  to 
practice  target  shooting.  Being  number  four  I  have  to 
touch  off  the  guns.  The  concussion  jars  my  head  so 
much  that  I  have  to  place  a  quid  of  tobacco  in  each, 
cheek,  to  prevent  it  from  injuring  my  teeth,  which  are  very 
sore.  The  companies  are  all  well  disciplined,  and  with 
our  25  pieces  of  artillery,  Col.  Doniphan  says  he  would 
defy  10,000  Mexicans.  When  not  on  duty,  our  men  resort 
to  every  kind  of  mischief  by  way  of  amusement.  Two 
pieces  of  artillery  found  at  this  place,  were  by  them,  on 
yesterday,  dismounted  and  blown  up.  They  were  filled 
with  powder  and  plugged,  and  the  muzzles  being  buried 
in  the  earth  several  feet,  a  slow  match  was  applied.  The 
reports  were  terrific.  They  have  also  burnt  all  the  pow 
der.  A  train,  nearly  one-fourth  of  a  mile  in  length,  was 
made  and  set  off,  and  which  ignited  several  barrels  at  its 
termination.  The  poor  affrighted  Mexicans,  meanwhile, 
ranoffcrying  "no  wano,  no  wano,"  (very  bad,  very  bad.) 


68 

Another  species  of  fun,  consists  in  collecting  all  the 
dogs  that  can  be  found  during  the  day,  and  carefully 
shutting  them  in  a  room  ;  at  night  each  dog  is  brought 
out,  and  a  large  bundle  of  fire  works  fastened  to  his  tail. 
He  is  then  let  loose,  amid  the  general  halloo ;  and  being 
enveloped  in  sparks,  accompanied  with  the  noise  of  small 
fire  arms,  wherever  he  runs  in  the  crowded  streets,  the 
Mexicans  fly  before  him  with  the  utmost  consternation. 

Sunday,  JLpril  4th. — This  was  the  appointed  morning 
for  us  to  leave  Chihuahua  for  the  south.  But,  on  ac 
count  of  a  bull  fight,  our  trip  is  postponed.  As  soon  as 
church  was  over,  the  soldiers  hastened  to  see  this  great 
sight.  As  I  was  conscientious  in  regard  to  the  violation 
of  the  Sabbath,  I,  of  course,  staid  behind;  I  was,  how 
ever,  informed  by  the  men  on  their  return,  that  five  bulls 
were  let  loose,  but  none  were  killed.  If  they  cannot 
strike  the  animal  in  some  vital  part,  they  are  obliged  to 
let  him  live.  The  blows  were  badly  dealt  and  the  bull 
escaped.  This  is  a  strange  mixture  of  Christianity  with 
the  barbarities  of  heathenism.  Card  playing,  cock  fight 
ing,  bull  baiting,  and  dancing,  are  the  chief  amusements 
of  these  people,  and  they  are  always  accompanied  with 
excessive  drinking,  not  unfrequently  with  quarrelling  and 
fighting,  in  which  the  belligerents  are  bruised,  their 
limbs  broken,  and  their  lives  sometimes  destroyed. 
What  an  idea  of  the  character  of  God  must  be  entertain 
ed  in  the  midst  of  such  performances  ?  He  can  hardly  be 
regarded  as  a  God  of  love,  whose  delight  is  in  the  up 
right  walk  and  chaste  conversation  of  his  people.  The 
service  of  that  blinded  population,  comports  better  with 
what  we  might  suppose  would  be  the  worship  of  the 
devil,  were  such  worship  distinctly  ordered.  Alas ! 
for  the  darkness  in  which  so  many  of  our  race  are  en 
veloped  ! 

bth. — The  wagons  were  loaded  for  our  long  jour 
ney — but  a  difficulty  in  getting  our  soldiers  together  de 
tained  us  till  two  o'clock,  P.  M.  At  length,  every 
thing  being  in  readiness,  we  started  out  of  town.  Some 
of  our  men  imagined  themselves  commanders  in  chief, 
assumed  to  give  orders,  and  were  otherwise  trouble- 


69 

some.  We  succeeded  in  reaching  a  ranch,  twelve  miles 
off,  and  encamped. 

6th. — Moved  on  twenty-five  miles,  and  stopped  at  a 
ranch  late  in  the  evening.  Putting  our  horses  in  a  clover 
field — we  spread  our  blankets  on  the  ground  and  rested 
till  morning. 

1th. — After  accomplishing  another  25  miles  to-day, 
we  erected  our  tents  close  to  the  walls  of  a  town.  Here 
we  were  joined  by  two  strangers,  who  said  they  came 
from  a  coral,  140  miles  off,  to  inform  us  that  a  large  Mex 
ican  force  of  about  10,000  soldiers  were  on  their  way  to 
re-take  Chihuahua.  They  also  stated,  that  Generals 
Taylor  and  Wool  had  gone  far  to  the  south,  in  the  direc 
tion  of  the  city  of  Mexico.  These  men  being  native 
Americans  induced  our  Colonel  to  listen  to  their  story, 
which,  if  true,  would  have  placed  us  in  a  bad  situation. 
With  one  half  of  our  command  left  behind  at  Chihuahua, 
we  could  be  easily  cut  off  from  this  point. 

8th. — This  morning  we  had  orders  to  start  back  to 
Chihuahua.  After  marching  25  miles  reached  the  second 
ranch,  and  encamped. 

9th. — Our  Sergeant  woke  us  all  at  two  o'clock  to  get 
our  breakfast,  and  make  an  early  start.  We  travelled 
briskly  36  miles,  and  arrived  at  Chihuahua  about  four 
o'clock.  Here  we  are  again  in  the  city,  at  our  old 
quarters. 

14th. — Ihavebeen  employed  in  writing  for  our  Surgeon, 
and  others,  for  several  days  past.  Yesterday  we  heard  that 
Vera  Cruz  was  taken  by  Gen.  Scott.  Twenty- eight 
rounds  were  fired  by  our  artillery-men. 

15^7*. — I  witnessed  to-day  the  mode  of  punishment 
among  the  Mexicans,  and  felt  disgusted  at  the  sight. 
Offenders  are  tied  to  a  tree  and  severely  lashed  for  different 
offences.  I  saw  several  whipped  to-day  for  horse  steal 
ing.  At  night  it  commenced  raining.  The  first  rain 
since  we  have  been  in  the  city.  I  was  too  sick  to  per 
form  the  duty  of  sentinel. 

16^. — The  morning  air  being  clear  and  cool  I  took 
a  walk  to  relieve  the  excessive  languor  I  feel.  I  have 
little  or  no  appetite,  and  my  spirits  are  very  much  de~ 


70 

pressed.  I  went  to  the  American  Hotel,  where  a  great 
many  questions  were  asked  me.  While  there  I  read  an 
advertisement  of  a  grand  ball  to  be  given  on  Sunday, 
18th,  entrance  $2.  It  is  really  distressing  to  contem 
plate  the  desecration  of  the  Sabbath  in  this  country. 
Oh !  how  I  long  to  be  once  more  in  a  truly  Christian 
land,  and  among  congenial  spirits. 

Sunday,  18th. — Various  exhibitions  encountered  at 
every  step  throughout  the  city  to-day.  Sunday  as  it  is, 
gambling  is  the  most  prominent.  At  night  the  greater 
part  of  our  men  went  to  the  ball. 

19th. — Drew  off  some  writing  for  our  Doctor ;  after 
wards,  with  a  messmate,  took  a  bath  in  the  river — still 
quite  sick,  and  nothing  to  eat,  but  poor  beef,  with  bread 
and  coffee.  This  stone  floor  is  particularly  hard  to  rest 
on. 

24th. — I  went  with  a  Mexican  to  see  the  prison.  He 
was  very  polite  and  accommodating;  he  took  me  through 
the  cells,  and  showed  me  the  blocks,  and  chains,  hand 
cuffs,  lariats,  &c.  that  had  been  prepared  to  keep  all  the 
prisoners  safely,  which  they  expected  to  have  taken  in 
the  battle.  They  were  to  have  been  kept  here  until  they 
could  be  marched  on  foot  to  the  city  of  Mexico.  But 
they  counted  their  game  a  little  too  soon  !  The  prison 
is  the  darkest  and  most  gloomy  place  I  ever  saw. 

Sunday  morning,  25th. — Just  as  the  church  bells 
began  to  ring,  our  men  geared  up  their  mules,  and  at  11 
o'clock,  two  companies  started  out  of  town  with  the 
artillery,  and  arrived  about  three  o'clock  at  the  first  ranch. 

26th. — An  early  start  took  us  to  the  second  ranch  25 
miles.  To-night  our  second  battalion  came  up. 

21th. — After  marching  36  miles  to-day  we  came  to  a 
town  called  Santa  Cruz,  where  we  encamped. 

2Slh. — We  lay  by  here,  and  wait  for  the  rest  of  the 
army,  which  will  start  from  Chihuahua  to-day. 

29th. — At  day  break  we  set  out,  and  after  marching 
21  miles  came  to  Sousilla,  a  town  situated  on  the  river 
Couchas,  which  is,  at  that  place,  a  considerable  stream. 
I  went  with  one  or  two  hundred  others,  and  took  a  re 
freshing  bath.  At  night  I  cooked  a  supper  of  coarse 


71 

bread,    beef  and    coffee,    with  the  materials  of  a  coral, 
which  we  tore  down. 

3Qth. — Still  travelling  on  the  Rio  Couchas.  Passed  a 
town  called  Los  Cruezas,  and  at  the  end  of  28  miles  en 
camped  at  the  town  of  San  Rosalia.  Col.  Doniphan's 
first  battalion  came  up  to-night. 

May  1st. — At  the  sound  of  the  reveille  all  went  in  line, 
and  after  roll-call  our  captain  told  us  to  get  our  arms  in 
good  order  for  inspection  at  nine  o'clock.  Every  man 
was  soon  busy  firing  off  loaded  guns,  cleaning  out,  &c. 
To-night  I  went  into  town  and  brought  a  welcome  re 
past  for  my  mess,  viz.  pork-steak  and  nice  bread. 

2d. — Our  Captain,  after  calling  ^he  roll,  told  us  that 
the  reveille  had  sounded  thus  early  for  a  company  to  go 
in  advance.  Came  out  a  few  miles  and  stopped  to  in 
spect  a  fort  the  Mexicans  had  erected  to  keep  Gen.  Wool 
from  marching  to  Chihuahua.  It  is  nicely  finished  off, 
with  port  holes  for  their  batteries,  &c.  The  building 
covers  nearly  an  acre  of  ground  ;  but  every  thing  is  silent; 
the  place  being  entirely  deserted.  A  fatiguing  march  of 
27  miles  brought  us  to  a  ranch  called  Remado,  where  we 
passed  the  night. 

3d. — The  country  is  still  barren  between  these  ranches, 
which  are  always  found  in  fertile  valleys,  mostly  inhabit 
ed.  Some  muskeet  brush  was  all  we  could  find  on  our 
road  to-day  ;  no  verdant  carpet  of  grass  to  relieve  the  eye 
from  the  strong  glare  of  the  rays  of  the  sun  pouring  on 
the  sandy  plains  as  we  pass  along.  A  late  hour  brought 
us  to  a  large  town  called  Huadaquilla,  on  the  Rio  Flori 
da.  We  travelled  30  miles  to-day. 

4/A. — At  ten  we  left — came  out  six  miles  and  encamp 
ed.  On  our  way  we  saw  several  monuments  erected  to 
various  saints.  A  pile  of  rocks  marks  the  grave  of  one 
great  personage.  In  the  centre  of  the  pile  is  erected  a 
cross,  adorned  with  artificial  flowers.  The  country 
around  this  town  is  cultivated  ;  provisions  are  cheap  and 
plenty.  All  the  soldiers  are  now  engaged  in  packing 
provisions  and  water  ;  the  latter  precious  article,  it  is 
said,  will  not  be  found  again  till  65  miles  are  passed  over. 
At  four,  P.  M.,  we  came  on  and  travelled  25  miles  in 


72 

this  Jornada,  and  laid  ourselves  down  to  sleep  in  the 
sand,  after  taking  a  cut  of  meat  and  bread  at  nearly  12 
o'clock. 

5th. — By  the  time  it  was  light  our  Orderly  came  around 
to  arouse  us  to  roll-call.  Some  poor  fellows,  half  asleep, 
staggered  off  into  the  ranks.  We  started  and  marched 
40  miles  through  a  thick  dust,  when  we  came  to  a  pond 
of  brackish  water,  which  is  sometimes  found  in  these 
deserts.  Here  we  halted  for  the  night.  The  water  was 
quickly  drunk  by  our  famishing  boys,  notwithstanding 
it  was  a  disagreeable  mixture  of  salt  and  sulphur. 

6th. — The  fatigue  and  sufferings  of  yesterday  were 
not  allayed  by  a  report  in  camp  that  several  thousand 
Mexicans  were  lying  in  wait  a  few  miles  ahead,  in  order 
to  cut  off  our  artillery.  We  marched  on  ten  miles  and 
stopped  on  the  banks  of  the  Rio  Cerro  Gordo,  where  we 
have  tolerably  good  water. 

1th. — I  arose  from  the  guard-fire,  where  I  had  been 
stretched  the  last  three  hours  dull  and  sleepy,  having  been 
on  duty  all  the  former  part  of  the  night ;  I  went  to  my 
mess,  whom  I  found  eating  breakfast.  As  soon  as  we 
got  through,  our  command  started  and  travelled  30  miles. 
Here  we  stopped  at  a  ranch,  near  which  are  several 
springs  bursting  from  a  bank,  the  water  of  which  is  very 
clear,  but  very  warm,  and  of  a  most  disagreeable  taste. 
A  few  hundred  yards  from  the  camp  we  saw  a  large  de 
serted  fort,  also  a  coral,  which  our  boys  tore  down  to 
cook  with.  The  face  of  the  country  has  nothing  to  re 
commend  it,  but  a  vast  variety  of  cactus,  beautifully  in 
bloom  all  over  the  sandy  plains.  Covered  with  dust,  I 
found  a  bath  in  the  hot  springs  very  refreshing  to-night. 

Sunday^  9th. — Pursued  our  way  uninterruptedly  the 
past  two  days  and  travelled  40  miles.  At  night  we  en 
camped  at  a  town  called  Mapemilla.  At  our  approach  the 
inhabitants  fled  to  the  mountains.  It  was  a  fine  night, 
and  their  fires  in  the  distance,  dotting  the  mountain  side, 
had  a  singular  and  romantic  effect.  News  met  us  here 
that  Gen.  Scott  had  whipped  Santa  Anna,  which  caused 
Col.  Doniphan  to  fire  a  salute  of  29  rounds. 

IQth. — At  3  o'clock  this  morning  the  reveille  sounded. 


73 

A  little  coarse  bread,  and  coffee  without  sugar,  constitu 
ted  breakfast,  on  which  we  travelled  30  miles.  We 
halted  late  at  night  at  a  ranch  called  San  Sebastian,  on 
the  Rio  Mosas,  a  stream  sufficiently  large  for  swimming. 
It  was  soon  covered  with  our  soldiers  enjoying  this  rare 
luxury. 

Ilth. — At  an  early  hour  we  had  to  bury  two  of  our 
men,  who  died  yesterday.  They  were  found  last  night 
(after  our  fatiguing  march  of  30  miles)  dead  in  the  wa 
gons.  They  were  buried  in  a  warlike  manner.  We 
crossed  the  river  two  miles  below  the  town,  and  pursued 
our  route  30  miles  to  another  village,  called  San  Lorenzo. 
Here  we  encamped,  but  suffered  much  inconvenience 
from  want  of  water,  having  to  use  it  very  sparingly. 
To-night  another  grave  was  opened  for  another  of  our 
men. 

12th. — As  usual,  our  whole  command  was  put  in  mo 
tion  at  three  o'clock,  and  after  marching  seven  miles 
through  a  thick  dust,  had  orders  to  halt  and  turn  back, 
for  we  had  left  the  right  road  behind.  Our  army  turned 
about  and  travelled  several  miles  until  we  got  right.  At 
the  end  of  18  miles  we  encamped  on  the  Rio  Mosas. 
Here,  unable  to  join  the  swimmers  from  a  violent  attack 
of  ear-ache,  accompanied  with  a  most  painful  sore  mouth, 
which  latter  I  have  suffered  with  since  leaving  Chihua 
hua,  I  went  to  a  Dutch  surgeon  for  advice.  He  looked 
in  my  mouth  a  few  seconds,  and  with  an  air  of  confidence 
declared  that  nothing  ailed  me.  I  determined  there 
after  to  bear  my  pains  like  a  hero,  and  almost  vowed 
that  I  would  never  pester  a  Dutchman  either  for  his 
sympathy  or  his  prescriptions. 

13th. — This  morning  we  started  early,  and  after  travel 
ling  30  miles  reached  a  ranch.  The  first  objects  that 
met  our  eyes  were  six  Indians  lying  dead.  They  had 
been  killed  by  our  advance  guard  of  about  30  rank  and 
file,  under  Capt.  Reid.  The  guard  was  unexpectedly 
attacked  by  a  body  of  Indians,  which  they  repulsed, 
after  killing  13  of  their  number,  with  their  chief.  He 
must  have  been  a  desperate  warrior,  for  even  after  he 
was  shot  down,  and  to  the  last  moment  of  his  life,  he 
7 


74 

tried  to  use  his  bow  and  arrows.  These  fellows  were 
seen  coming  from  a  gap  of  the  mountain,  some  distance 
off,  making  direct  for  our  little  party,  who  went  out  at 
full  gallop  to  meet  them.  A  discharge  of  arrows  was 
met  by  a  volley  from  our  men.  A  considerable  skirmish 
now  ensued.  The  Indians  raising  the  war-whoop, 
rushed  on  them,  discharging  their  arrows  with  incredible 
rapidity;  but  they  were  forced  to  retreat,  and  these  bodies 
were  dragged  hither  as  trophies. 

14^. — About  one  o'clock  in  the  night,  while  our 
wearied  soldiers  slept,  two  guns  were  heard.  In  an  in 
stant  our  Captain  jumped  to  his  feet,  and  hurriedly  went 
over  the  ground  to  wake  us  all  up.  In  a  few  moments 
every  man  had  on  his  arms.  After  waiting  some  time 
for  the  enemy,  news  came  that  one  of  the  Lieutenants 
was  shot  through  the  hand.  It  appears  that  this  Lieuten 
ant  was  officer  of  the  night,  and  in  his  rounds,  tried  to 
take  a  sentinel  by  surprise.  Creeping  stealthily  on  the 
ground  to  the  spot,  he  was  told  by  the  sentinel  to  stop 
and  give  the  countersign.  No  answer  being  returned, 
he  fired.  As  soon  as  he  found  that  he  was  shot  in  the  hand 
he  returned  the  charge  on  the  sentinel.  But  no  one  can 
tell  as  yet  who  this  watchful  sentinel  is.  I  made  up  a  fire  to 
prepare  coffee.  At  two  o'clock  the  reveille  sounded  for  all 
to  saddle  up.  At  four  we  started,  and  after  marching  25 
miles  came  in  sight  of  Parras,  a  large  city.  Our  Adju 
tant  chose  a  place  for  us  to  encamp,  which  is  in  a  beauti 
ful  grove  of  ornamental  cotton  trees.  The  scene  is  new 
and  pleasant.  Here  are  trees,  green  cornfields,  and  run 
ning  streams.  The  gardens  in  and  around  the  city  are 
beautifully  arranged,  and  tastefully  supplied  with  ripe 
apricots,  oranges  and  lemons ;  also  a  great  variety  of 
flowering  shrubs  and  plants. 

15th. — We  are  to  pass  a  day  or  two  here  I  believe, 
resting  from  our  long  travel.  This  morning  one  of  our 
wagon  drivers,  who  is  a  sailor,  went  up  town,  and  by  some 
means,  most  unfortunately,  offended  several  of  the  Mexi 
can  gentlemen.  Complaint  was  made  to  the  alcalde,  who 
ordered  Jack  to  be  taken  to  the  caliboose  and  flogged, 
going  in  person  to  see  it  done.  But  Jack  knocked  him 


75 

down  and  broke  his  sabre  in  pieces — whipping  several 
others  who  came  to  the  rescue,  and  finally  walked  off  to 
camp  completely  victorious.  Word  was  brought  to  Col. 
Doniphan  about  the  conduct  of  his  man,  who  gravely 
told  the  people  that  if  Gen.  Wool  could  do  any  thing  with 
his  men,  it  was  more  than  he  could  with  his.  He  said  it 
was  now  too  late  for  him  to  keep  them  in  order,  therefore, 
he  should  leave  on  Monday. 

Sunday,  16th. — Preparations  are  going  on  in  different 
departments  for  the  renewal  of  our  march  to-morrow. 
The  expectation  of  soon  encountering  Generals  Taylor 
and  Wool,  appears  to  inspire  our  men  with  a  desire  to 
look  decent.  Old  clothes  are  being  washed — sundry  holes 
in  deer  skin  pants  are  in  the  process  of  repair,  and  I  think 
we  shall  not  look  so  very  ragged,  after  all. 

11th.— rMoved  out  of  town  at  three  o'clock,  P.  M. 
After  marching  five  miles  through  a  broken,  bare  country, 
we  came  to  a  house,  whose  shingled  roof  indicated  that 
its  builder  had  been  educated  in  the  United  States.  We 
found  it  even  so,  although  the  man  was  a  Mexican. 
We  made  a  journey  of  25  miles  to-day,  and  had  a  sup 
per  of  excessively  tough  beef,  and  coarse  bread. 

18th. — On  our  way,  very  early,  as  usual — made  18 
miles  with  a  severe  ear-ache,  from  which  I  have  suffer 
ed  almost  constantly  for  several  weeks  past.  Strolling 
out  after  the  tents  were  fixed  up,  I  saw  some  soldiers 
walking  along  with  a  man  in  front,  whom  I  learned  they 
were  about  to  drum  out  of  service.  He  proved  to  be  a 
teamster,  and  not  a  volunteer.  He  had,  without  provo 
cation,  struck  several  Mexicans  in  Parras.  The  alcalde 
sending  on  an  express  to  Gen.  Wool  for  protection,  in 
duced  Col.  Doniphan  to  settle  the  business  thus.  He 
was  made  to  walk  before  three  armed  men,  behind  whom, 
several  bugles  performed  a  doleful  ditty.  When  they 
arrived  at  the  outskirts,  the  Captain  ordered  a  halt,  and 
proclaimed  that  the  man  was  drummed  out  of  service  for 
misbehavior.  Whereupon  he  ordered  the  men  in  front 
to  kick  him.  The  punishment  having  been  inflicted,  the 
poor  fellow  was  turned  off,  to  find  a  shelter  where  he 
could. 


76 

llth. — To-night  we  are  encamped  at  a  ranch,  almost 
overflowed  with  water  which  is  coming  down  in  a  rush, 
in  consequence  of  a  heavy  rain  in  the  mountains.  Made 
to-day  25  miles. 

21.s/  — Yesterday  and  to-day  we  pursued  our  journey 
without  intermission.  At  night  we  encamped  where 
Gen.  Wool  had  stationed  1000  men  as  picket  guard. 
We  received  a  treat  in  the  shape  of  nice  American  flour 
and  mess  pork,  as  rations. 

22d. — I  rode  with  several  others  to  Gen.  Wool's 
camp.  On  the  way  we  passed  over  the  battle  ground  of 
Buena  Vista,  and  saw  the  remains  of  hundreds  of  Mexi 
cans  thrown  in  heaps  and  covered  over  with  cactus. 
These  remained  undisturbed  by  the  wolves  while  they 
had  disinterred  our  buried  Americans  and  devoured 
them  ;  these  animals  make  a  practice  of  keeping  in  the 
rear  of  our  advancing  armies,  and  always  pre*fer  eating 
our  men  after  death  to  the  Mexicans.  I  spent  an  hour 
in  contemplating  the  desolations  of  wrar — picked  up  a 
few  Spanish  coins,  a  watch  key,  cross,  &c.,  with  sev 
eral  other  little  matters,  as  mementos.  Gen.  Wool's  quarters 
were  to  be  seen  in  the  distance.  After  spending  an  hour 
or  two  in  his  camp,  I  returned  to  our  boys,  whom  I  found 
assembled  in  a  congregation,  and  Capt.  Reid  holding 
forth  in  a  speech,  trying  all  his  might,  to  get  some  of 
our  men  to  volunteer  again,  their  term  being  nearly  ex 
pired.  This  morning  every  preparation  is  made  for  the 
reception  of  Gen.  Wool,  who  is  expected  to  receive  the 
command.  All  in  right  order,  we  marched  out,  the  ar 
tillery  in  front,  our  company  (the  Chihuahua  Rangers) 
next,  and  so  on.  As  he  rode  up,  the  artillerymen  fired 
a  salute,  and  while  passing  along  the  lines  with  his  es 
cort,  we  had  orders  to  "present  arms."  After  the 
parade  was  over,  we  were  marched  back  to  camp,  where 
the  General  came  to  inspect  the  captured  cannon,  and 
see  the  black  flag,  taken  at  the  battle  of  Sacramento. 
At  night  we  drew  rations  of  bacon  and  dried  apples, 
which  good  things,  some  of  our  boys  thought  were  given 
as  a  bribe  to  induce  them  to  re-enlist, 

Sunday,  23d. — -.We  left  at  an  early  hour,  and  as  we  pass- 


77 

ed  through  Gen.  Wool's  encampment,  we  turned  over  to 
him  our  American  artillery,  consisting  of  six  pieces,  re 
ceived  at  Santa  Fe.  We  retained  the  Mexican  cannon,  viz. 
17  pieces  taken  at  the  battle  of  Sacramento,  and  one  piece 
taken  at  Bracito,  and  marched  on  12  miles  to  Saltillo,  a 
large  town  among  the  mountains.  The  weather  is  warm 
and  pleasant,  and  in  right  order  we  passed  through,  and 
proceeded  on  eight  miles,  we  encamped  at  night  in  a 
wheat  field.  We  saw  to-day  several  deserted  ranches. 

24th. — After  a  long  and  fatiguing  march  of  32 
miles,  we  stopped  at  a  deserted  ranch  to  pass  the  night. 
In  winding  through  the  mountain  pass  to-day,  we  turned 
aside  to  see  the  fortifications  which  had  been  thrown  up, 
to  stop  the  progress  of  Gen.  Taylor  to  Saltillo. 

25th.—  An  early  start,  and  fatiguing  journey  of  25 
miles  brought  us  within  four  miles  of  Monterey.  From 
our  camp  we  have  a  full  view  of  the  city  and  palace  of 
the  Bishop.  All  this  day  our  road  lay  through  the  nar 
row  pass  of  the  mountains,  one  of  which  is  volcanic,  and 
has  been  burning  for  several  years.  A  heavy  rain  de 
scended  to-night,  drenching  us  completely,  and  in  the 
midst  of  which  a  grave  was  dug  for  a  poor  soldier,  who 
has  been  sick  ever  since  we  left  Chihuahua. 

26th. — Through  a  heavy  wind  we  rode  into  town  and 
stopped  to  see  the  citadel  and  wall  so  bravely  scaled  by 
our  troops  after  the  enemy  was  driven  from  their  re 
doubts.  From  this  palace,  a  lovely  and  extensive  view 
of  the  city  and  surrounding  country  is  presented.  The 
southern  fruits  and  flowers  are  growing  in  great  luxuri 
ance.  After  our  men  were  satisfied  with  an  inspection, 
we  marched  through  the  famous  town  of  Monterey  to 
Gen.  Taylor's  camp,  where  we  arrived  at  12  o'clock. 
We  found  the  old  hero  encamped  in  the  woods.  Imme 
diately  on  our  arrival  he  came  to  us,  in  company  with 
Col.  Doniphan,  to  see  the  trophies  of  our  victories.  I 
was  fortunate  enough  to  grasp  the  hand  of  the  old  Gen 
eral.  In  the  afternoon  several  thousand  pack  mules 
were  sent  out  with  provisions  for  Gen.  Wool. 

21th. — At   day-break   the   roll-call   was   called,    and 
Capt.  Hudson  told  us  to  saddle   up,  and  get  ready  to 
7* 


78 

start.  All  was  in  readiness,  when  orders  came  that  we 
should  be  delayed  till  12  o'clock.  A  few  minutes  before 
that  hour  Gen.  Taylor  with  his  escort  rode  up, and  pass 
ed  along  the  lines,  with  his  hat  off,  to  review  us.  We 
presented  sabres,  and  then  started  on  our  way,  the  Gen 
eral  escorting  us  some  distance  from  his  camp.  After 
he  left  us,  we  pursued  our  march  through  a  country  well 
covered  with  hackberry  and  other  trees.  A  long  route 
of  32  miles  brought  us  to  a  ranch,  where  we  halted  for 
the  night. 

28th. — Arrived  at  a  deserted  ranch  late  in  the  morning, 
after  passing  40  miles  over  a  most  dreadful  road.  Being 
in  the  rear  guard,  I  and  eleven  others,  were  obliged  to 
assist  the  wagons  up  the  hills,  by  pushing  at  the  wheels. 
All  along  this  route  decaying  bodies  and  skeletons  of 
men,  are  lying.  Some  of  the  bodies  still  had  their  cloth 
ing  on,  and  the  stench  was  almost  intolerable.  The 
road  was  also  strewed  with  mules,  which  had  died  in 
numbers  on  their  way  to  Monterey. 

29th. — The  road  is  only  interesting  from  association. 
Many  a  brave  man  has  passed  it  never  to  retrace  his  steps. 
Six  miles  from  our  last  stopping  place  we  reached  Seral- 
vo.  Here  we  found  a  regiment  of  volunteers  on  the 
march  to  join  Gen  Taylor.  We  waited  till  the  afternoon 
to  feed  our  horses  and  mules ;  then  marched  14  miles  to 
another  deserted  ranch  and  stopped  to  sleep.  We  saw, 
on  our  way  many  ranchos  and  villages  tenantless  and 
destroyed.  While  we  were  at  Seralvo,  a  Mexican  was 
caught,  who  belonged  to  the  gang  that  murdered  the 
teamsters,  and  burned  up  150  wagons,  which  were  on 
their  way  to  the  army.  At  three  o'clock,  he  was  brought 
out  in  the  plaza,  and  placed  against  the  wall.  A  file  of 
six  men,  (the  Texian  Rangers,)  stood  some  ten  yards  off. 
The  prisoner  was  told  by  the  Coloned  that  his  time  was 
at  hand.  He  was  then  ordered  to  turn  his  back.  This 
he  not  only  refused  to  do,  but  struck  fire  and  lighted  his 
cigar.  The  word  was  given — all  fired — and  he  fell  dead. 
Three  balls  entered  his  breast,  and  three  his  head.  A 
Texian,  whose  brother  had  been  murdered  in  the  wagon 
train,  gave  a  five  dollar  gold  piece  to  take  the  place  of 
one  who  was  chosen  to  do  this  melancholy  business. 


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Sunday  night,  30th. — We  have  stopped  at  a  tovrn 
called  Mier.  I  felt  very  weary  after  a  travel  of  36  miles. 
This  place  is  notorious  on  account  of  a  battle  that  was 
gained  by  the  Texians.  Our  Rangers  were  highly  elated 
in  the  thoughts  of  their  success  and  they  became  so  drunk 
that  the  defeated  Mexicans  took  them  prisoners,  and 
marched  them  off  to  the  city  of  Mexico.  So  much  for 
the  sale  of  rum.  We  met  with  a  cordial  reception  at 
this  place. 

31st. — We  encamped  in  sight  of  Camargo  at  two 
o'clock  to-day.  We  crossed  the  river  St.  Pon  in  a  ferry 
boat,  which  was  pulled  by  means  of  ropes.  The  cross 
ing  occupied  about  two  hours,  when  our  troops  and 
artillery  were  landed.  This  town  is  well  fortified.  It 
is  the  principal  depot  for  supplies  to  the  army,  which 
come  up  this  river  in  small  steamers.  River  water  is 
drank,  although  rendered  very  filthy  by  the  carcasses  of 
mules  and  horses,  which  are  thrown  into  it.  To-day 
one  poor  fellow  was  buried,  who  had  been  sick  a  long 
time.  Many  a  hard  jolt  in  the  rough  wagon,  and  hour 
of  thirst  and"  weariness  had  he — but  he  sleeps  quietly  and 
and  peacefully  in  his  lonelv  rest  on  the  banks  of  the  St. 
Pon. 

June  1st. — On  our  way  to  the  Rio  Grande,  this  morn 
ing  one  of  our  men  was  shot  by  a  party  of  Mexicans, 
who  had  concealed  themselves  in  the  bushes.  He  was 
riding  alone,  when  he  was  fired  upon.  The  charge  en 
tered  his  hand  and  breast,  and  he  fell  dead.  Capt.  Reid 
at  the  head  of  50  men,  went  after  the  murderers,  and  soon 
returned  with  six  of  them.  They  are  to  be  kept  in  close 
confinement. 

2nd. — Our  officers  were  in  an  unpleasant  dilemma. 
They  did  not  know  how  to  dispose  of  the  prisoners,  and 
after  some  debate,  they  concluded  to  turn  them  loose. 
A  file  of  soldiers  was  detailed  for  that  purpose.  They 
took  them  some  miles  off,  and  soon  returned,  announcing 
that  they  had  turned  them  loose.  At  4  o'clock  we  left, 
and  travelled  all  night  through  a  thick  forest  of  muskeet 
trees  and  brushwood.  About  sunrise  we  arrived  at  Co 
lumbus,  where  we  found  several  steamers  ready  for  us. 


80 

Many  of  us  were  miserably  disordered  from  our  weary 
midnight  march.  We  encamped  on  the  Rio  Grande. 
This  evening  our  cannon  was  sent  down  the  river  two 
miles  to  be  shipped. 

3d. — Orders  were  received  at  an  early  hour  for  the 
troops  to  bring  forward  their  saddles,  rigging,  &c.,  to  be 
valued.  A  most  unsightly  mass  was  soon  presented,  the 
dilapidated  articles  were  gathered  in  a  heap.  Our  Ser 
geant  gave  notice  he  should  value  them  as  condemned 
property,  it  being  impossible  to  transport  them.  A  large 
fire  was  then  made,  and  all  were  consumed.  Our  horses 
were  placed  in  charge  of  a  Mr.  Van  Bibber,  who  for  a 
stipulated  sum  engaged  to  drive  them  through  Texas  to 
Missouri,  and  leave  them  at  any  point  we  might  desig 
nate.  We  walked  a  mile  to  the  beach,  where  several 
steamers  awaited  us.  The  sick  went  immediately  on 
board.  Two  or  three  companies  started,  while  the  rest 
of  us  were  detained  till  very  late  to  assist  in  shipping  the 
cannon.  Orders  were  given  that  we  should  remain  all 
night,  so  we  went  again  on  shore,  spread  our  blankets  on 
the  beach,  and-spent  the  night  rather  uncomfortably. 

4£/i. — It  commenced  raining  at  3  o'clock  this  morning. 
After  eating  a  breakfast  of  coffee  and  a  few  hard  crackers, 
we  hurried  on  board  the  steamer.  Here  we  found  both 
cabin  and  deck  crowded  with  men,  Our  little  steamer 
started  in  the  midst  of  a  heavy  rain,  rendering  every  thing 
exceedingly  unpleasant.  Night  came  on  and  no  cooking 
could  be  done,  so  we  went  on  shore,  erected  our  tents, 
ate  our  suppers  and  rested  quietly  through  the  night. 

5tfi. — The  bell  rang  at  3  o'clock  for  us  to  come  on 
board  which  we  accomplished  in  the  course  of  an  hour. 
One  fellow  being  rather  slow,  was  left  behind,  but  he 
regained  the  boat  before  she  had  gone  two  miles.  For 
tunately  for  him  an  accident  happened  to  the  wheel, 
which  was  found  to  be  broken,  thus  detaining  us  for 
repairs  several  hours.  We  did  not  reach  Metamoras  till 
two  o'clock.  Here  we  stopped  but  a  very  few  minutes, 
and  proceeded  on  till  sunset.  The  boat  now  stopped  to 
take  in  wood,  and  the  Captain  informed  us  that  he  should 
leave  at  moonrise.  We  laid  down  on  deck  on  our 
blankets. 


Sunday,  6th. — I  was  awakened  at  one  o'clock  by  the 
deck  hands  to  make  room  to  haul  in  the  foot  plank.  I 
found  myself  drenched  with  filthy  \valer,  which  had  run 
under  me  as  I  slept.  Quietly  folding  up  my  blanket  I 
thought  I  would  make  no  complaint,  as  I  was  near  my 
journey's  end.  About  sunrise  we  reached  the  Balize, 
when  all  hands  landed  and  erected  the  tents.  After 
breakfast,  with  a  number  of  others,  I  went  to  bathe  in 
the  sea.  We  let  the  breakers  pass  over  our  heads. 
They  came  with  such  force,  that  in  my  present  reduced 
state,  I  found  it  difficult  to  stand  up  under  them.  Nor 
could  I  remain  long  in  the  water. 

1th. — We  are  encamped  on  the  banks  of  the  Rio 
Grande,  eight  miles  from  the  shipping,  which  is  on  the 
opposite  side  of  this  narrow  neck  of  land. 

8th. — A  regiment  of  regulars  landed  to  day,  on  their 
way  to  the  seat  of  war.  No  ship  has  appeared  as  yet  to 
take  us  off. 

9th. — This  morning  we  had  orders  to  start  for  Brazos 
Santiago,  nine  miles  from  this  place.  We  had  not  pro 
ceeded  far  through  the  deep  sand,  when  it  became  neces 
sary  for  those  who  had  the  remnant  of  shoes,  to  pull 
them  off,  on  account  of  the  sand  gathering  in  them,  it 
being  above  the  ankle  at  every  step.  Our  feet  became 
badly  blistered  by  the  heat  and  friction.  Most  gladly  did 
I  spread  my  blanket  on  the  sand  and  enjoy  a  night  of 
rest,  after  the  fatigues  of  the  day.  We  are  not  yet  at 
the  end  of  this  uncomfortable  journey.  The  shipping  is 
in  sight,  and  a  short  march  in  the  morning  will  relieve 
the  weary  teams  of  their  burdens. 

Wth. — WTe  are  all  on  board* — artillery,  baggage,  and  a 
motley  crew  of  250  men,  with  unshaved  faces,  ragged 
and  dirty,  but  all  in  fine  spirits,  save  a  few  poor  fellows, 
whose  thin  visages  show  the  ravages  of  disease  and 
suffering. 

11M.— The  past  has  been  a  memorable  night.  For 
suffering  I  have  not  experienced  its  equal  in  all  my 
peregrinations  through  life.  In  the  brig,  on  board  of 
which  we  took  passage,  there  were  100  bunks  (a  slight 
elevation  made  of  plank)  for  the  soldiers  to  sleep  on. 


82 

When  I  got  in  mine,  the  crowd  was  so  great  and  the  air 
so  oppressive,  that  I  thought  I  would  get  out,  and  take 
a  few  pulls  at  the  fresh  atmosphere.  Groping  along  in 
the  dark,  I  endeavored  to  find  some  place  of  egress,  but 
the  whole  gangway  was  strewed  with  men,  and  I  was 
forced  to  return,  amid  a  shower  of  blessings  from  the 
poor  fellows,  on  whom  I  had  the  misfortune  to  tread. 
I  laid  the  rest  of  the  night  in  this  hot  place,  more  dead 
than  alive.  There  was  not  the  slightest  air,  and  I  was 
covered  with  a  profuse  perspiration. 

12th. — An  inspection  of  this  brig,  which  was  beautiful 
in  its  exterior,  convinced  me  that  it  was  a  filthy  place 
indeed ;  especially  between  decks.  It  was  certainly 
worse  than  a  hog-pen,  for  just  above  our  bunks,  there 
was  a  sty,  in  which  were  several  of  the  real  material. 
Two  small  fires  were  built  for  the  soldiers  to  cook  with, 
and  so  many  crowded  around  them,  all  anxious  to  be 
served,  that  a  long  time  elapsed  before  I  could  get  my 
coffee.  As  a  matter  of  convenience  we  were  supplied 
with  hard  crackers  and  molasses.  This  diet  only  increas 
ed  my  disease,  and  I  turned  a  longing  eye  on  a  large 
turtle  which  had  been  killed  and  was  being  served  up 
for  our  officers,  and  the  inmates  of  the  cabin. 

13th. — Our  allowance  of  water  was  a  coffee  pot  full 
twice  a  day  for  coffee,  and  a  pint  apiece  for  each  man  to 
drink  ;  a  hogshead  had  been  drawn  upon  deck  for  our  use. 
There  is  a  guard  kept  throughout  each  day,  over  this 
hogshead  of  miserable  water,  not  fit  for  horses  to  drink. 
It  was  with  mingled  feelings  of  admiration  and  sorrow 
that  I  saw  our  brave  fellows,  who  had  borne  the  fatigues 
of  the  march,  and  the  strong  blows  of  the  battle,  come 
humbly  around  the  hogshead,  which  was  a  central  point 
of  attraction,  and  ask  for  a  little  cup  of  water,  when  they 
were  almost  famished,  and  could  drink  several  pints  were 
it  allowed  them.  It  is  a  gloomy  Sabbath  evening — 
nearly  calm. 

14;th. — We  are  running  S.  E.  by  E.,  though  the  boat 
scarcely  glides  along,  there  being  a  calm.  It  seems  that 
the  water  is  becoming  scarcer  to-day.  The  Captain  has 
directed  that  a  quart  only  shall  be  given  to  each  man  for 


83 

all  purposes.  And  it  is  to  last  24  hours.  When  this 
was  announced  one  of  the  men  muttered  something  which 
I  did  not  hear,  but  which  the  Captain  disliked  ;  for  he  told 
us  all,  that  if  any  one  made  another  threat,  he  would 
blow  his  brains  out  as  quick  as  he  would  shoot  a  rattle 
snake.  When  this  threat  was  heard  the  men  all  roared 
out  in  a  hearty  laugh.  The  Captain  was  of  middle  size, 
somewhat  corpulent,  swarthy  in  complexion,  and  blind  in 
his  right  eye.  He  was  rough  in  his  manners,  but  talked 
very  little,  especially  to  us,  privates.  He  is  master  of  the 
brig  and  is  employed  by  government  to  convey  troops 
across  the  gulf.  His  name  is  Woodsides.  This  morning 
about  a  pint  of  water  was  issued  to  each  man.  Of  course, 
no  coffee  is  made.  We  mixed  a  little  vinegar  with  some 
water,  and  with  crackers  and  molasses,  made  out  our  sup 
per.  Two  dolphins  were  caught  by  the  sailors,  and  one 
of  our  men  caught  a  young  shark.  Another  turtle  is 
served  up  for  the  cabin.  It  was  so  warm  that  I  could 
not  sleep  in  my  bunk,  but  lay  in  the  gangway,  on  my 
blanket.  At  midnight  a  steamer  came  alongside,  and 
the  Captain  took  on  board  several  barrels  of  water.  It 
was  truly  a  blessing  for  us. 

15th. — Coffee  and  fried  shark  for  breakfast,  but  a  dread 
ful  sore  mouth  (which  I  fear  is  the  scurvy)  makes'  the 
eating  a  painful  performance.  Every  indication  of  land 
was  near.  At  12  o'clock  the  Captain  said  we  were  80 
miles  from  the  Balize.  In  anticipation  of  a  storm,  the 
sails  were  furled,  but  a  little  sprinkle  of  rain  was  all,  and 
we  again  spread  our  canvass  to  the  breeze.  A  sailor  was 
sent  aloft  to  see  if  the  light  house  was  in  sight,  and  after 
remaining  in  the  cross  trees  two  hours,  he  came  down 
and  said  he  saw  it.  A  short  time  after  the  cry  was 
heard,  "the  pilot  boat  is  coming."  Sails  were  furled, 
and  the  pilot  was  soon  on  board.  In  the  meantime  some 
one  cried  "three  cheers  for  Capt.  Woodsides  !"  The  cry 
was  echoed  by  the  crowd,  and  Capt.  Woodsides  looked 
bullets.  A  flag  was  placed  on  the  bow,  a  steamer  came 
alongside  and  towed  us  over  the  bar,  where  our  Captain 
anchored.  We  now  draw  water  up  the  sides  of  the  ship, 
for  we  are  in  the  Mississippi  river,  100  miles  from  New 


84 

Orleans.  The  water  is  good  and  there  is  plenty  of  it,  as 
the  river  is  full.  Every  man  has  just  as  much  as  he  can 
use,  and  we  use  it  freely  enough.  After  supper  I  went 
to  my  bunk,  but  found  it  too  warm  to  rest  in,  so  I  took 
my  blanket,  and  laid  down,  as  usual,  in  the  gangway — 
but  not  being  able  to  stretch  my  feet  out,  in  consequence 
of  a  sack  of  bacon  in  the  way,  I  got  up  and  searched 
about,  and  at  length  found  an  empty  bunk  of  some  one 
who  had  gone  on  deck  to  spend  the  night.  I  felt  weak 
and  sick  from  the  heat. 

16th. — We  drew  our  water  from  the  river  to  get  some 
breakfast,  the  sailors  are  washing  off  the  deck,  and  if 
any  man  happens  in  the  way,  he  is  sure  of  having  a 
bucket  full  thrown  on  him  ;  of  course  several  of  our  boys 
have  had  a  good  drenching.  At  8  o'clock  a  steamer 
took  us  in  tow.  As  we  proceeded  up  the  Mississippi,  we 
beheld  on  its  banks  large  plantations  of  the  sugar  cane 
which  present  a  lovely  contrast  with  some  countries  over 
which  I  have  marched.  On  the  left  side  of  the  river  is 
Fort  Jackson,  now  nearly  in  ruins,  but  still  a  beautiful 
place.  With  several  of  our  men  I  slept  on  the  deck  of 
the  steamer.  We  were  all  in  good  spirits  at  the  prospect 
of  getting  home,  though  the  want  of  a  change  of  clothes 
at  this  particular  juncture  is  keenly  felt.  Some  are  cov 
ered  with  filth,  and  vermin,  which  have  kept  their  hiding 
places  within  our  garments,  for  many  a  long  day. 

11th. — We  are  now  among  the  thick  settlements,  and 
sugar  plantations  which  line  the  river  as  we  approach  the 
city.  I  remained  most  of  the  night  on  deck,  and  ate  an 
early  breakfast  of  the  usual  diet.  Afterwards  Capt.  Hud 
son  had  one  of  the  big  guns  taken  up,  and  fired  a  salute 
as  we  passed  a  pretty  little  village.  We  are  now  on  the 
site  of  the  battle  ground,  where  General  Jackson  fought 
the  English  in  1814 — continued  our  course  up  the  river, 
and  fired  several  times.  At  last,  we  were  safely  landed 
on  the  wharf  in  New  Orleans.  Upon  my  head  there  was 
no  hat,  having  lost  my  last  remnant  overboard  in  the 
gulf.  My  pants,  I  had  thrown  away  three  days  before, 
because  (being  composed  of  deerskin  worn  into  tatters,) 
I  despaired  of  making  them  look  decent.  A  pair  of 


,85 

drawers,  rather  the  worse  for  wear,  and  an  old  overcoat, 
constituted  my  dress.  If,  to  this  description  of  my  per 
son  I  add  that  my  hair,  beard,  and  mustachios,  had  been 
left  to  vegetate  undisturbed  ever  since  I  left  Fort  Leaven- 
worth,  then  some  idea  may  be  formed  of  the  accomplish 
ed  soldiers  of  Col.  Doniphan's  command. 

18th. — In  company  with  twelve  others  I  got  in  an  om 
nibus  to  search  for  some  clothes  and  quarters  ;  came  three 
miles  to  a  large  clothing  establishment,  where  our  wants 
as  to  garments  were  soon  supplied.  The  barber  next 
exercised  his  skill,  and  it  was  with  many  an  amusing  jest 
and  laugh  that  we  regarded  each  others  altered  and  im 
proved  appearance.  Comfortable  quarters  were  secured, 
and  to-night  I  am  reposing  in  a  quiet  boarding  house. 
Here  I  feel  that  no  homage  of  my  soul  is  profound 
enough  to  render  due  adoration  to  that  gracious  Prov 
idence  Who  has  protected  and  guided  me,  while  march 
ing  over  the  wild  plains,  and  through  the  mountain 
passes  of  Mexico. 

"Deserts  in  vain  opposed  our  onward  course; 

O'er  hostile  lands  and  wild  untravelled  wastes, 
Our  journey  we  pursued,  nor  feared  the  floods, 

Through  deep  ravines  that  flow  ;  dire  banked  with  death ; 
Nor  mountains  in  whose  jaws  destruction  grinned. 

Though  floods  rapacious  roaring  as  they  rolled, 
And  mountains  huge  and  rough  were  circled  round 

By  roving  bands  of  restless  savage  foes." 

22nd. — On  Sunday  last  I  went  to  the  M.  E.  Church 
and  listened  to  an  excellent  sermon.  I  was  kindly  in 
vited  by  a  stranger,  who  introduced  himself  to  me,  to 
dine  and  spend  the  evening  with  him.  I  complied  with 
his  request  and  was  pleasantly  entertained.  After  tea  I 
returned  to  my  boarding  house,  which  is  kept  by  a  Mr. 
Wren,  and  whose  charge  is  moderate,  viz.  $4  per  week. 
On  my  first  introduction  here  I  committed  a  blunder,  the 
thought  of  which  has  frequently  caused  me  to  smile.  It 
shows  the  contrast  between  a  camp  life  and  the  more 
polished  proceedings  of  life  in  the  city.  When  I  was 
called  to  the  first  meal,  I  seated  myself  at  the  table  in  the 
8 


86 

presence  of  my  hostess,  and  commenced  operations  as  I 
supposed  in  a  manner  the  most  polite  and  refined.  Cast 
ing  a  glance  at  the  lady  I  observed  that  she  was  eyeing 
me  with  a  curious  interest.  The  smile  that  played  upon 
her  lip  told  me  that  she  was  amused  at  some  awkward 
ness  of  mine  or  some  oddity  in  my  appearance.  And 
what  was  my  surprise  when  I  found  that  I  had  jerked 
my  old  knife  from  my  pocket  and  was  cutting  my  meat 
placed  upon  my  bread  in  my  usual  way.  The  habit  had 
been  fixed  upon  me,  and  notwithstanding  the  neat 
arrangements  of  the  table  I  could  not  resist  the  propensity 
to  indulge  in  my  camp  customs. 

26th. — On  board  the  steamer  Louisville  bound  for 
Cincinnati.  The  boat  is  crowded,  but  a  mattress  on 
which  to  lie  is  a  luxury.  A  few  hours  ago,  I  parted  with 
many  of  my  fellow  soldiers  and  friends,  with  feelings 
which  it  is  impossible  for  me  to  describe.  I  am  not  in  a 
situation  to  continue  with  the  regiment  until  it  reaches  its 
final  destination.  My  mouth  is  so  sore  that  the  least 
effort  to  masticate  my  food  is  very  painful,  and  I  cannot 
eat,  now  that  I  have  before  me  all  the  luxuries  of  life; 
and  even  if  I  could  it  would  be  improper  for  me  to  do  so, 
on  account  of  a  long  continued  diarrhoea  and  pain  in  my 
breast  and  side.  I  feel  that  I  am  greatly  changed  when  I 
compare  the  present  with  the  time  when  I  last  glided 
over  this  beautiful  stream.  Then  so  full  of  health  and 
anticipations  of  pleasures  and  happiness,  now,  a  sick 
soldier — a  mere  skeleton  of  a  man,  bronzed  by  the  burn 
ing  rays  of  a  Mexican  sun,  and  worn  down  by  the  pro 
longed  fatigue  of  travelling,  watching  and  toil.  I  re 
gret  very  much  that  I  cannot  go  to  St.  Louis,  as  request 
ed  by  Col.  Doniphan,  where  an  enthusiastic  reception  is 
awaiting  him.  To  express  myself  in  measured  terms 
about  our  Commander,  would  not  be  expressive  of  my 
feelings,  and  I  feel  how  utterly  incompetent  I  am  to  utter 
his  eulogy.  The  man  who  can  familiarise  himself  with 
the  poorest  private,  by  some  kind  word,  or  ride  among  the 
troops,  and  make  us  forget  that  we  were  hungry  or  thirs 
ty  by  some  pleasant  converse,  in  our  long  and  toilsome 
march ; — the  man  who  can  forget  his  own  personal 


87 

safety  in  the  hour  of  danger,  and  rise  superior  to  every 
embarrassment — who  can  be  prepared  for  every  emer 
gency,  by  superior  skill  in  the  tactics  of  war — as  well  as 
a  refined  sense  of  honor,  and  an  open  suavity  of  manner, 
not  only  leading  captive  the  hearts  of  his  entire  command, 
but  thousands  of  the  hostile  foe — such  a  man  is  a  trea 
sure  to  society,  an  honor  to  his  country.  And,  such  a 
man,  is  the  brave  Doniphan.  It  was  with  the  feelings 
of  a  brother  or  a  friend  to  whom  I  owed  many  obliga 
tions,  that  I  grasped  the  hand  of  this  great  man,  who 
kindly  wished  me  a  safe  return  to  my  family. 

21th. — Our  noble  steamer  has  made  good  headway  up 
the  river,  passed  Baton  Rouge,  and  at  nine  o'clock  at 
night  came  in  sight  of  Natchez. 

28th.— Passed  the  Grand  Gulf  at  10,  and  at  2  got  to 
Vicksburg.  The  pleasure  of  feasting  my  eyes  on  scenes 
so  lovely,  and  which  are  presented  by  a  trip  to  the 
"Father  of  Waters,"  compensates  for  any  little  incon 
venience  arising  from  our  crowded  state. 

30th* — At  this  time  we  are  near  Memphis.  There  is 
some  excitement  on  board.  A  man  laboring  under  the 
effects  of  mania  potu  is  quite  crazy,  and  has  attempted 
several  times  to  jump  overboard.  Just  now  he  entered 
the  ladies'  cabin  and  struck  his  wife  ;  one  of  our  officers 
interfered,  and  soon  placed  him  on  his  back.  But  a  fur 
ther  attempt  to  kill  his  child  made  it  necessary  to  secure 
him.  With  several  others  I  entered  the  ladies'  cabin, 
and  helped  to  tie  this  gentleman.  He  made  much  useless 
resistance. 

July  1st. — Slepi  but  little — the  surrounding  bustle 
and  noises  mingled  strangely  with  dreamy  anticipations  of 
soon  receiving  the  cordial  welcome  of  friends,  that  I 
fondly  think  that  are  eagerly  awaiting  me  in  my  native 
home. 

West  River,  July  10th. — Let  no  brave  soldier  say  he 
cannot  shed  tears  of  joy,  when  clasped  in  the  arms  of 
his  aged,  widowed  mother,  after  an  absence  of  nearly 
two  years,  in  which  he  has  encountered  the  perils  of 
both  land  and  sea — travelling  nearly  6000  miles,  2200 
being  through  the  heart  of  an  enemy's  country,  and 
witnessing  death  in  every  shape  and  feature. 


It  were  an  endless  task  to  attempt  any  thing  like  a 
minute  description  of  that  part  of  Mexico  through  which 
we  travelled.  Our  route  lay  for  the  most  part,  on  the 
Rio  Grande  del  Norte,  whose  head  waters  rise  in  the 
Green  Mountains,  several  hundred  miles  above  Santa 
Fe.  It  forms  the  western  boundary  of  Texas,  and  can 
be  easily  forded  at  almost  any  point  above  El  Passo.  In 
the  dry  season  it  is  extremely  low,  and  can  be  of  very 
little  importance  for  navigation,  except  near  its  mouth, 
which  flows  into  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  It  is  thought  this 
river  has  a  course  of  from  15  to  1800  miles.  The  coun 
try  is  elevated:  being  traversed  by  a  range  of  mountains 
extending  far  to  the  northward.  Among  the  inhabitants, 
I  saw  every  shade  of  complexion,  from  a  dark  swarthy, 
or  yellow,  to  the  palest  white.  But  few  are  handsome 
among  the  ladies ;  and  this  is  principally  to  be  attributed 
to  their  great  love  of  coloring  the  skin  with  red  paint. 
The  mountaineers  are  mostly  poor,  and  almost  universally 
destitute  of  every  thing  beyond  the  bare  necessaries  of 
life.  Their  flocks  and  herds  constitute  their  principal 
riches,  and  their  implements  of  husbandry  are  all  of  the 
most  simple  character.  Their  ploughing  such  as  it  is — 
is  effected  by  a  wooden  plough,  to  which  is  attached  two 
or  four  oxen,  and  the  wheat  is  slightly  covered  over, 
having  been  previously  sown  on  the  hard  ground.  There 
are  some  fertile  valleys  in  this  mountainous  range,  but 
the  poor  simple  inhabitants  have  very  little  idea  of  tak 
ing  advantage  of  the  natural  resources  of  their  country. 
After  we  left  Chihuahua,  fields  of  cotton  and  corn,  inter 
spersed  at  intervals  with  the  sugar  cane,  presented  them 
selves.  The  ranchos  are  always  about  a  day's  journey 
apart,  and  the  whole  aspect  of  nature  in  these  delightful 
spots,  is  one  of  the  most  inviting  that  can  be  imagined,  as 
a  field  of  operation,  for  the  industry  and  art  of  man.  The 
soil  here  is  fertile,  and  what  is  generally  termed  bottom  land ; 
and  with  proper  culture  would  be  made  as  productive  as 
any  of  our  western  lands,  as  the  climate  is  more  genial. 
They  grow  only  a  few  vegetables,  of  which  the  red  pep 
per  appears  to  be  a  favorite,  these  they  string  and  hang 
on  the  outsides  of  their  houses  so  thick  that  on  approach- 


89 
Bancroft  Library 

ing  I  frequently  thought  I  should  see  a  painted  dwelling, 
but  was  to  see  only  a  miserable  dirty  hut.  The  mines 
of  Mexico  afford  her  principal  wealth,  but  of  this  the 
poorer  classes  obtain  but  little,  they  are  kept  in  igno 
rance  and  degradation  by  a  government  which  has  borne 
the  name  of  Republican,  but  which  every  one  who 
sojourns  in  that  country  must  soon  discover  to  be  a 
mockery,  for  the  mass  of  the  people  are  subject  alone  to 
the  will  of  the  Roman  clergy,  and  are  not  free  to  act. 
There  is  no  slave  in  any  of  our  Southern  States  whose 
situation  they  have  not  reason  to  envy.  The  women  are 
more  degraded  if  possible  than  the  men,  and  more  sloven 
ly  in  their  appearance,  and  while  this  is  the  case  in  any 
country  the  morals  of  the  people  must  remain  at  a  low 
grade.  Since  my  return,  I  have  heard  of  the  enthusias 
tic  reception  of  Col.  Doniphan  at  St.  Louis,  an  account 
of  which  I  annex  as  published  in  the  Baltimore  American. 
Our  business  was  not,  however,  to  see  all  that  was 
worth  seeing,  but  to  hurry  on  to  the  place  we  started 
for  and  when  arrived  at  that  to  make  arrangements  to 
hurry  on  again. 


COL.   DONIPHAFS  MARCH. 


AT  the  recent  reception  of  the  Missouri  volunteers  un 
der  Col.  Doniphan  at  St.  Louis,  the  address  of  welcome 
was  delivered  by  Mr.  Senator  Benton.  The  speech  is 
characteristic — exhibiting  that  clear  and  graphic  narra 
tive  and  those  strong  and  concentrated  expressions  for 
which  the  Senator  is  remarkable. 

The  orator  gave  an  outline  of  the  long  march  of  this 
gallant  regiment — first,  a  thousand  miles  to  New  Mexi 
co,  which  became  a  starting  point  of  a  new  departure. 
Then  Chihuahua  was  aimed  at — Chihuahua,  a  rich  and 
populous  city  of  nearly  thirty  thousand  souls,  the  seat  of 
the  government  of  the  state  of  that  name,  and  formerly 
the  residence  of  the  Captains  General  of  the  Internal 
Provinces  under  the  vice-regal  government.  In  advanc 
ing  towards  Chihuahua  the  adventurous  regiment  en 
countered  incredible  hardships.  They  passed  over  the 
desert  called  et  Jornada  de  los  muertos — the  journey  of 
the  dead — an  arid  plain  of  ninety  miles  strewed  with  the 
bones  of  animals  perished  of  hunger  and  thirst  and 
marked  by  continual  mementos  of  men  who  had  fallen 
victims  to  the  perilous  way.  They  fought  tnt*  enemy 
at  the  Bracito,  and  gained  a  decisive  victory  although 
opposed  by  superior  numbers  strong  in  cavalry  and  ar 
tillery.  Again  at  Sacramento  the  intrepid  band  fought 
and  conquered  a  vastly  superior  force.  Mr.  Benton  calls 
that  victory  "one  of  the  military  marvels  of  the  age."  At 
length  Chihuahua  is  reached  and  taken ;  and  there  the  bold 
adventurers  must  pause  to  determine  which  way  next  they 
shall  direct  their  steps.  They  had  occupied  a  city  about 
as  far  from  St.  Louis  as  Moscow  is  from  Paris.  Let 
Col.  Benton's  graphic  narrative  be  heard : 


92 

"Chihuahua  gained,  it  became,  like  Santa  Fe,  not  the 
terminating  point  of  a  long  expedition,  but  the  beginning 
point  of  a  new  one.  Gen.  Taylor  was  somewhere — 
no  one  knew  exactly  where — but  some  seven  or  eight 
hundred  miles  towards  the  other  side  of  Mexico.  You 
had  heard  that  he  had  been  defeated — that  Buena  Vista  had 
not  been  a  good  prospect  to  him.  Like  good  Americans 
you  did  not  believe  a  word  of  it ;  but  like  good  soldiers, 
you  thought  it  best  to  go  and  see.  A  volunteer  party 
of  fourteen,  headed  by  Collins  of  Boonville,  undertake  to 
penetrate  to  Saltillo,  and  to  bring  you  information  of  his 
condition.  They  set  out.  Amidst  innumerable  dangers 
they  accomplish  their  purpose  ;  and  return.  You  march. 
A  vanguard  of  one  hundred  men,  led  by  Lieut.  Colonel 
Mitchell,  led  the  way.  Then  came  the  main  body,  (if 
the  name  is  not  a  burlesque  on  such  a  handful,)  com 
manded  by  Col.  Doniphan  himself. 

"The  whole  table  land  of  Mexico,  in  all  its  breadth, 
from  west  to  east,  was  to  be  traversed.  A  numerous 
and  hostile  population  in  towns — treacherous  Cuman 
ches  in  the  mountains — were  to  be  passed.  Everything 
was  to  be  self-provided — provisions,  transportation, 
fresh  horses  for  remounts,  and  even  the  means  of  victory 
— and  all  without  a  military  chest,  or  even  an  empty  box, 
in  which  government  gold  had  ever  reposed.  All 
was  accomplished.  Mexican  towns  were  passed,  in  or 
der  and  quiet :  plundering  Cumanches  were  punished : 
means  were  obtained  from  traders  to  liquidate  indispen 
sable  contributions  :  and  the  wants  that  could  not  be  sup 
plied,  were  endured  like  soldiers  of  veteran  service. 

"I  say  the  Cumanches  were  punished.  And  here  pre 
sents  itself  an  episode  of  a  novel,  extraordinary,  and  ro 
mantic  kind — Americans  chastising  savages  for  plunder 
ing  people  who  they  themselves  came  to  conquer,  and 
forcing  the  restitution  of  captives  and  of  plundered  prop 
erty.  A  strange  story  this  to  tell  in  Europe,  where 
back-woods  character,  western  character,  is  not  yet  com 
pletely  known.  But  to  the  facts.  In  the  muskeet  for 
est  of  the  Bolson  de  Mapimi,  and  in  the  sierras  around  the 
beautiful  town  and  fertile  district  of  Parras,  and  in  all  the 


93 

open  country  for  hundreds  of  miles  round  about,  the  sav 
age  Cumanches  have  held  dominion  ever  since  the  usurper 
Santa  Anna  disarmed  the  people ;  and  sally  forth  from  their 
fastnesses  to  slaughter  men,  plunder  cattle,  and  carry  off 
•women  and  children.  An  exploit  of  this  kind  had  just 
been  performed  on  the  line  of  the  Missourians'  march, 
not  far  from  Parras,  and  an  advanced  party  chanced  to 
be  in  that  town  at  the  time  the  news  of  the  depredation 
arrived  there.  It  was  only  fifteen  strong.  Moved  by 
gratitude  for  the  kind  attentions  of  the  people,  especially 
the  women,  to  the  sick  of  General  Wool's  command, 
necessarily  left  in  Parras,  and  unwilling  to  be  outdone 
by  enemies  in  generosity,  the  heroic  fifteen,  upon  the 
spot,  volunteered  to  go  back,  hunt  out  the  depredators, 
and  punish  them,  without  regard  to  numbers.  A  grate 
ful  Mexican  became  their  guide.  On  their  way  they  fell 
in  with  fifteen  more  of  their  comrades  ;  and,  in  short 
time,  seventeen  Cumanches  killed  out  of  sixty-five, 
eighteen  captives  restored  to  their  families,  and  three 
hundred  and  fifty  head  of  cattle  recovered  for  their  own 
ers,  was  the  fruit  of  this  sudden  and  romantic  episode. 

"Such  noble  conduct  was  not  without  its  effect  on  the 
minds  of  the  astonished  Mexicans.  An  official  document 
from  the  Prefect  of  the  place  to  Captain  Reid,  leader 
of  this  detachment,  attests  the  verity  of  the  fact,  and  the 
gratitude  of  the  Mexicans  ;  and  constitutes  a  trophy  of 
a  new  kind  in  the  annals  of  war.  Here  it  is  in  the  orig 
inal  Spanish,  and  I  will  read  it  off  in  English. 

"It  is  officially  dated  from  the  Prefecture  of  the  Depart 
ment  of  Parras,  signed  by  the  Prefect  Jose  Ignacio 
Arrabe,  and  addressed  to  Capt.  Reid,  the  18th  of  May, 
and  says : 

"  'At  the  first  notice  that  the  barbarians,  after  killing 
many,  and  taking  captives,  were  returning  to  their 
haunts,  you  generously  and  bravely  offered,  with  fifteen 
of  your  subordinates,  to  fight  them  on  their  crossing  by 
the  Pozo,  executing  this  enterprise  with  celerity,  address 
and  bravely  worthy  of  all  eulogy,  and  worthy  of  the  bril 
liant  issue  which  all  celebrate.  You  recovered  many  ani 
mals  and  much  plundered  property ;  and  eighteen  cap- 


94 

lives  were  restored  to  liberty  and  to  social  enjoyments,  their 
souls  overflowing  with  a  lively  sentiment  of  joy  and 
gratitude,  which  all  the  inhabitants  of  this  town  equally 
breathe,  in  favor  of  their  generous  deliverers  and  their 
valiant  chief.  The  half  of  the  Indians  killed  in  the  com 
bat,  and  those  which  fly  wounded,  do  not  calm  the  pain 
which  all  feel  for  the  wound  which  your  excellency  re 
ceived  defending  Christians  and  civilized  beings  against 
the  rage  and  brutality  of  savages.  All  desire  the  speedy 
re-establishment  of  your  health  ;  and  although  they  know 
that  in  your  own  noble  soul  will  be  found  the  best  reward 
of  your  conduct,  they  desire  also  to  address  you  the  expres 
sion  of  their  gratitude  and  high  esteem.  I  am  honored  in 
being  the  organ  of  the  public  sentiment,  and  pray  you  to 
accept  it,  with  the  assurance  of  my  most  distinguished 
esteem. 

"'God  and  Liberty!'" 

"This  is  a  trophy  of  a  new  kind  in  war,  won  by  thirty 
Missourians,  and  worthy  to  be  held  up  to  the  admiration 
of  Christendom." 

The  regiment  arrived  at  Gen  Taylor's  camp  at  Mon 
terey,  and  reported  themselves  ready  for  duty.  They 
were  prepared  to  go  with  the  hero  of  Buena  Vista  to  San 
Luis  Potosi,  or  Zacatecas,  or  the  city  of  Mexico.  They 
regarded  not  their  fatigues  nor  the  approaching  expira 
tion  of  their  term  of  service.  "But  unhappily,"  says  Mr. 
Benton,  "the  conqueror  of  Palo  Alto  ResacadelaPalma, 
Monterey  and  Buena  Vista,  was  not  exactly  in  the  con 
dition  "that  the  Lieutenant  General,  might  have  been, 
intended  him  to  be.  He  was  not  at  the  head  of  20,000 
men  !  he  was  not  at  the  head  of  any  thousands  that 
would  enable  him  to  march  !  and  had  to  decline  the 
proffered  service.  Thus  the  long  marched  and  well 
fought  volunteers — the  rough,  the  ready,  and  the  ragged 
— had  to  turn  their  faces  towards  home,  still  more  than 
two  thousand  miles  distant." 

The  last  nine  hundred  miles  of  the  land  march  from 
Chihuahua  to  Matamoras  was  made  in  forty-five  days 
with  seventeen  pieces  of  artillery,  eleven  of  which  had 
been  taken  from  the  enemy.  During  all  their  long  march 


this  regiment  of  hardy  soldiers  received  from  the  Govern 
ment  not  a  dollar  of  pay  ;  they  furnished  for  the  most  part 
their  own  supplies  and  forage  and  clothing,  and  yet 
brought  back  nearly  their  whole  number.  "You  march 
ed  farther  than  the  farthest,"  says  Mr.  Benton,  "you 
have  fought  as  well  as  the  best,  left  order  and  quiet  in 
your  train,  and  cost  less  money  than  any." 

Col.  Doniphan  made  an  eloquent  address  in  reply  to 
the  oration  of  welcome,  and  towards  the  close  of  it,  he 
turned  to  his  men,  the  companions  of  his  toils  and  dan 
gers,  and  said : 

"You  have  endured  much  toil  and  hardship.  It  is  now 
about  to  terminate.  You  have  arrived  once  more  in  the 
land  of  civilized  society,  and  again  we  are  citizens  ming 
ling  with  our  fellow-citizens.  Your  lot  has  been  a  hard 
one  in  many  respects. 

"Before  reaching  New  Mexico,  by  two  hundred 
miles,  you  were  on  half  rations,  and  never  afterwards, 
for  a  single  day,  during  our  long  and  arduous  march  to 
Saltillo,  did  you  receive  full  rations.  Yet  all  this  you 
have  borne,  and  you  have  borne  it  with  fortitude.  The 
order  which  you  received  to  march  in  Major  Gilpin's 
command,  with  a  large  column,  over  the  Sierra  Madre, 
covered  with  perpetual  snow — proceeding  on  your  march 
on  shortened  allowance,  without  tents  or  transportation, 
and  many  other  comforts,  because  the  Government  was 
unable  to  furnish  them ;  yet  you  bore  it  all,  and  were 
ready  to  resume  your  march  in  two  days  on  the  city  of 
Chihuahua.  You  have  travelled  over  five  states  of  Mex 
ico,  and  five  very  large  ones,  in  point  of  territory. 

"Perhaps  the  citizens  of  St.  Louis  do  not  know  what  a 
Bonava  is,  but  I  will  answer  for  every  man  in  my  com 
mand,  knowing  what  they  are.  I  may  assure  you,  had 
you  crossed  them,  you  too,  would  have  known  what 
they  are.  The  shortest  one  that  we  crossed  was  fifty 
miles  and  one  ninety-five  miles,  which  we  crossed  in 
three  days  in  December,  without  wood,  without  water, 
without  tents,  at  an  elevation  of  7000  feet  above  the 
Atlantic  ocean.  In  sending  expresses  to  the  distance 
of  600  miles,  when  I  was  unable  to  furnish  them  with 


96 

the  means  of  carrying  provision  and  other  comforts 
with  them  over  immense  sand  prairies  covered  with 
snow,  I  have  never  made  a  detail,  but  all  were  volun 
teers,  or  when  I  have  sent  out  parties  for  the  purpose  of 
watching  the  enemy  who  have  had  to  starve  for  days, 
I  never  made  a  detail  in  this  column,  but  all  were  volun 
teers,  and  I  am  proud  to  say  it." 


